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Everything posted by ryland_moore

  1. Best College Town for a Climber?

    It depends on what type of climbing you want. For ice, Montana St. is prolly the best. For mountaineering, Western WA is prolly better than Seattle. But if you want rock climbing, then that changes everything. Colleges in the SE and NE have far better access to rock in close proximity to school. Hell, Sewanee (aka University of the South) where I went to school has its own climbing guidebook for over 100 sport and trad routes on campus! Plus you have T-Wall, Sunset, Foster Falls all within 1 hr. or less, Red River Gorge is 3 hr.s (probably the best sport climbing east of the Mississippi and cool gorges and granite domes in N. Carolina and n. Georgia like Linville Gorge and Looking Glass - about 3-4 hours from campus. We even had ice form on campus two out of the four winters I was there and our geology professor ditched class with us to climb it. Climbing season lasts all year, but the skiing sucks. Also U. of new Hampshire will give you awesome sport climbing at Rumney plus amazing ice in NH and VT. The Gunks aren't too far either. This is your chance to explore. You can always move back to the PNW after school!
  2. What do you do for a living?

    Water transactions manager.....I negotiate water rights transactions and conduct water asset valuations west of the Mississippi. Yes, water is now a commodity!
  3. Atomic Kongur 74% off

    That is a great deal even for a 3 year old ski. I have the 2006 model I picked up last year for $250 and absolutely love them!
  4. Baker Conditions (Coleman Route)

    Pete A is also on this board so you could probably send him a PM for more detailed beta.....
  5. Crazy Permit Fines

    THEY DON'T MAKE A DAMN CENT OFF OF FINES, PEOPLE!!!!! That is becasue they are paying staff to issue fines to pay for more staff. Of course they are not making money off of it. it is a way to bring in money to pay for staff. No new trails recently other than the few mentioned above. I agree that Blake and Dan should have gotten a permit. I disagree with the ranger issuing a citation in a really remote part of the park and think it was foolish for Blake and Dan to protest the fine. I could understand poaching an area like BB or anywhere in Cascade Pass without a permit, when all of the permits are taken. I totally disaagree wth the park assessing large fines for free permits where nary a soul ventures in a given year. If the Ranger had an ounce or morals he would have issued a warning and if caught again, then slam them hard. As for me, I get my backcountry permits, do not ga into areas where all permits are taken, but refuse to pay for parking at unimproved trailheads. I have two cards I hang in my window. One is the religion thing for the unimproved trailheads and one is an annual Forest Service Fee area parking permit for the improved trailheads. I have never in 7 years of hanging the religious tag on my rearview received a citation while parked at an unimproved trailhead and also never received a ticket for doing the same at the Stuart Lake trailhead when my regular pass had lapsed.
  6. Mex volcanoes 11/15 - 12/2

    I recommend staying at Luis Reyes' place/Servimont before heading up Orizaba. Cool old soap factory with bouldering wall, a place to hide any vehicle in the compound walls, transportation to the climbers refugio, and great food. they run a great outfit. Cool to read all of the climbers' logs back to the 1930s too. Also, for La malinche, you can rent cabins just below with a place to cook and fireplace. pretty nice as we had miserable weather when there for La malinche so the cabin and fireplace were awesome and cheap. Finally, to reward yourselves after a climb of Orizaba, head down to the coast and relax in the Carribean/Gulf/ Veracruz area. We went from the summit of Orizaba at 18,700' to sea level and sipping on margaritas and playing in the ocean in less than 24 hours and dancing the night away with mexican hotties at the discoteque. Where else can you go from one extreme to the other anywhere else in the world? The coast is much further away in the Andes and the waters off even Ecuador are not super warm. Can't do it in the Himal or AK either. It is a great way to end a climbing trp for sure.....
  7. ?

    Not Bat caves? Loos like a mixed line on the roof with pro in the crack, no? If so good for them. Looks like a great route.
  8. Mt. shasta in December

    If Avi danger is higher, Check out Casaval Ridge. great winter early spring route.
  9. Mowich Face Conditions

    Maybe there are no reports from the Mowich side this year is because the prime time to climb it is in October? i am just saying, if you are making an opinion, state so. if you have specific beta, say so. If you are just speculating, at least back it up with why and from where your educated guess is coming from. Otherwise you are wasting everyone's time. I say go check it out. If it doesn't go or looks dangerous, then don't do it. if it looks good, attempt it.
  10. Mowich Face Conditions

    Fairweather or Mntgt, have either of you even climbed the Mowich by any route that would give you all the experitise to make this call? Even if you have, have you been on the route lately, or just armchair quarterbacking it?
  11. I think you guys are either behind the times or have never had your kids in a gym climbing edvironment. This is par for the course with plenty of kids in this age range (although 6 is still young) learning to lead in the gym. I tought classes for years in Eugene where if the kids could climb 5.9 without hanging or falling on top rope consistently (onsight) then the next skill they were taught was lead climbing. I had several kids who were able to do this by the time they were 8 and 9 years old (never 6 or 7). They were taught properly and moc lead climbed in the gym for several months (top rope there for back up). Then the training wheels came off and they were leading 5.7 in the gym. I had one girl who was leading 5.10. She is now on the junior team and climbing 5.12. I see no problem taking a kid younger than 10 lead climbing (sport)outside at a place like Smith as long as the draws are pre-placed and the anchor is set up, there is proper supervision and the apprenticeship leading up to lead climbing has not been rushed. Case in point, one of the posters over there who claims to be a climber for years did not know the term "backclip". I will bet you $1,000 every one of the kids I evertaught lead climbing knows what a backclip is, knows why it is bad, and knows how to recognize it from the ground and while on lead. I would not allow a young climber to lead belay any climber. I agee with some of the others responses over on climbing.com with regards to body size in using the chest harness as well as diamter of rope with regards to static falls with lower body weights. This all has to be taken into consideration. I would rather have my kid lead climbing at that age then playing football in Peewee league.
  12. Sorry Steve, Russians sent it

    No supplemental oxygen is difficult to argue with despite the fixed ropes. Alex, I think most people climb K2 without supp.tO2. Everest is really the only mountain where supp. oxygen is used more often than not,but then again, you don't have hordes of guided clients on K2 that you do on Everest. Still, it is a monumental feat to climb that route. Maybe the Russians are getting so much flack becasue not only were siege tactics used with thousands of feet of fixed rope and gear but also the number of people they thlrew at the route? I can almost guarantee it was not only two climbers always in the lead fixing all of the gear. I bet maybe5 or 6 guys were trading off daily to push the route higher, the leaders then come down to rest, jumar back up and move gear in a total team effort. Maybe if you throw enough hardmen at a route, anything is possible. Much different than big wall aid in Baffin, Yos, or patagonia with teams of 2-4. I'd be interested to know how many climbers were actually on the route helping out....Anyone know?
  13. cell phones while climbing?

    It remeinds me of a comic on last comic standing who did a bit similar to this in one of his stand ups. he was talking about people in public using their cell phonesand talking really coud. he said that next time you see someone doing this stand right beside them and listen to their conversation.n When the guy turns to ask for a little privacy, you say"this is public. There is not privacy in 'public.' In fact your privacy is ruining my 'public.' i actually did see someone grab someone's cell phone. They did not smash t on a rock, but they did close it and refused to give it back until the owner agreed not to make any calls unless necessary. He was doing it righte below a group of climbers and one guy was trying to redpoint a climb he had been working on for two mon ths. I agree in this situation that the guy with the cell phone was completely in the wrong.
  14. What is to do in Portland?

    How did everyone forget No Fish, Go Fish? Best lunch on the planet at hawthorne and 30th or 40th something (south side).....Glad you had a great time toad. You missed the street fair this weekend on hawthorne though!
  15. Newbie Cascades - Looking for Sea Plane drop off

    The Pasayten Wilderness is indeed remote. I spent 21 days in there and only saw people when I crosed the Pacific Crest trail. Start hiking north from Strawberry Mountain and can go all the way to tcanada. Cut West and hit Ross lake and hike back along the lake. Or take a shuttle boat up Ross Lake and get dropped off at one of the many drainages. For an all around experience though i would second the recommendation on the Ptarmigan traverse. You may see a few people back there but it is remote.
  16. Found Stolen Gear PDX ? ? Hmmmmm?

    If it is stolen, then the guy is still likely a climber. See the description of some of the stuff? "Pre-recall aliens"? It is a thief who has his ears to the climbing world's ground.....
  17. Best breed for a not-huge mountain dog?

    Any upland dog or corss will be awesopme for what you want to do, but remember that they are high energy dogs and need to run. They will get up around 40-50 lbs. Really short air though. Rodisian Ridgebacks are another as are Vislas (sp.?). My favorite high energy dog though is a jack Russell. Those dogs are incredible!
  18. Slesse fatality yesterday?

    Any new updates? Prayers go out to family and friends...
  19. Furthermore, you were in a wilderness area (Eagle Cap) and I think that it is illegal to kill anything in a wilderness area when it is malicious. I think I will make a call to the USFS office in Enterprise to report it.........
  20. Hunting and killing are two different things. If your father truly hunted rattlesnakes then he ate them and also used other parts such as the skins and rattles. If you kill a rattle snake and just leave it, that is not hunting, that is simply killing something for the fun of it, so you are not carrying on your father's tradition. Moreover, that is the dumbest reason to do something. If your dad killed rattlesnakes rather then hunting them, then he is a dumb ass as well and may explain how you turnd out to be such a fuck up. I am glad you do not have a significant other, becasue you do not need to spread your genes. maybe they should castrate people like you. Glad I wasn't there to witness it otherwise I may have hit you in the head with the rock........
  21. Climbing Following ACL Reconstuction

    Can't comment on the hamstring version personally, but I did know a gal who had the hamstring and she did not start climbing until after about 5 months if I remember correctly. It all depends on how strong your legs were previously. Regardless of the type of ACL surgery, the stronger your leg was going into it, the quicker your recovery, at least that was what my doc said. I bet if you have descent range of motion, you should be fine. The problem will be when you have to high step and place all of your weight on that leg. I was in Vegas for a bachelor party during the NFC playoffs January 14, 2006 so wsa about 1 month out from surgery. I had to get away from the strip so headed out to Red Rocks. We climbed easy stuff (5.8 and 5.9s) and I could definitely feel it when I stepped up on lead. It was more sore after climbing five pitches then when I was just jogging or riding the bike. I still did not have my full range of motion yet. I say this because it may put things into perspective for you when comparing how you feel on the bike. As an aside, I wasn't doing PT but just a bunch of exercises my doc gave me. I went out fly-fishing for steelhead on the Kilchis River in early February and as I was walking down a really steep bank, I slipped in my wading boots and my leg got tucked up behind me as I fell. It hurt really bad because it was forced and happened so quickly, however, I think it broke up some of the scar tissue and increased my range of motion tremendously after that! Good luck in the healing. You'll be back soon enough. I would say with your schedule maybe toproping first where you can back off if need be. You can look at it as relying less on that leg and building up your finger strength or smear technique becasue you are forved to take smaller steps...
  22. Liddell vs. Jackson

    Rashad Evans is a joke. He could never stand up with Jackson. As for Randy C., our own Mwills in Randy C's nephew. I talked to MWills' bro last night and he said that he thinks Randy is going to stay at heavyweight. "Puncher's choice" Kickers Choice! If a guy like that can knock out Cro Cop then anyone can. Randy will have a tough fight against him.
  23. Liddell vs. Jackson

    Yes. Jackson beat Lidell. It is now rematch time.
  24. mountaineering rope recomendations

    I only use my beal rando if just two people on a rope team (perfect) or if three people then we use two beal Randos. Two Beal Randos is still cheaper than one 9.2 50 or 60 meter dry rope.
  25. 5 climbers missing on Hood

    Motomagik, of anyone on this thread, you seem like the one most at fault or creating 'risk' up there. If someone asks that you not climb directly above them in the fall line and you do it anyway, then you are putting someone else at risk. You didn't fall, but you could have. On Denali, while descending the fixed lines, we asked a group of Germans to not get on the fixed lines until we were off of them. Did they listen? No. And one German fell and took out my partner with a jab of a crampon to my climbing partner's thigh. If not for anchors and fixed lines, the ride would have been longer than 40 ft. sliding with full packs, axes, crampons on steep blue ice. It is easy to think you are better or more skilled than others, especially when you see a guy with tennis shoes and jeans on picking his way through the Pearly gates, but that is also a time to not only worry about others and their position, but also about how you could be responsible for causing an accident. The accident on Hood several years ago shows this. All of the climbers that day had some to a lot of climbing experience. They fell, did not pay close attention to protecting themselves and those around them and three people died. If the upper party had set protection, if the lower parties had not climbed up directly in the fall line of the upper party, etc. then the whole accident could have been prevented. Don't be so cocky as to assume you are exempt from an incident. it happens when you least expect it. protect yourself and don't put others in a situation that makes them feel uncomfortable (which you were guilty of). Making some snide comment as you did about some newbie being only 1/2 way on the summit, is a way for you to direct critizism away from your actions and make it look like it was someone else who didn't know what they were doing up there. I guarantee that Sean is way more qualified than you to assess what is best for the client and that climber's abilities. The fact that you did not initially recognize short-rope technique in your original post makes me question yours.