Dru

quote: Originally posted by erik: one word: contrived one picture = 1000 words

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: quote:Originally posted by Dru: really all those areas have so much potential i rarely repeat problems but rather scrub & climb new ones every time i go there. i personally find a lack of "developed" landings, trails and chalk on holds to be a big plus. Hope is gonna be a pretty dead area until the guidebook comes out then all the trendy losers will show up blabbing about chris sharma gossip and grabbing each others bum. I understand what your saying it's rad having a place to yourself and running around putting up problems like crazy...so why is a guide coming out then? Keep the bum grabbers at Squamish. A guide is coming out cause Nate and Mark want to spray about all the 'hard' problems they have done...

a trad climber only needs one person to love him - his partner. or not even love him, they can be bound by mutual disgust but still want to climb the same peak. but boulderers need the love cause they need 8 friends with pads to spot them on their new highball problem...

yeah, dry tool index = ape index +16 inches... actually, ok a 45cm tool extends your reach by more than 8 inches... more like a foot! im not imagining ANYTHINGabout the other 8 inches though

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by Dru: "To scramble around on a few little rocks is not, of course, the same as mountaineering." - Lionel Terray describing Fontainebleau c. 1948 "Bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing" - Ron Kauk c. 1990 Who was right? This also assumes that mountaineering is equivalent to climbing. That's simply not true. When's the last time you were able to practice self-arrest or crampon technique on a boulder? And to echo an earlier post, when's the last time you used your toothbrush on a rock while mountaineering? IMHO, mountaineering can (and usually does) involve climbing, but is much more comprehensive than simply climbing. I practiced dry tooling on boulders this last winter I can do this one problem with ice tools that i can't do barehanded cuz of the extra 8 inches of reach

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: quote:Originally posted by Dru: routes from 11a to 12+ across the valley... talk to mike crapo for info on the routes. ahhhh... i figured someone had developed at least some of it. Looks good. Has he found any caves or super steep stuff or is it all vert to slightly overhanging? What are the approaches like? Man o man I love limestone... i dont know of any big caves but there might be some.. if you want that super steep Thailand-esque tufa and pocket stuff you better go to hat creek or horne lake...it think there are only about 5 routes on 1 cliff so far (15 minute hike/bushwack & batman up steep fixed ropes in dirt gullies to reach) i checked out some othercliffs you need more like a 45 minute uphill bush thrash to reach...

i can't view thatsite at all get a message from homesite saying no such site exists... i think they stopped paying homesite the $$$ yeah LOTW is north of hope - best boulders are at S end of lake, hike thru first boulder field to second one. no trails!! just look around. generally the further from the road you go the bigger the problems get. really all those areas have so much potential i rarely repeat problems but rather scrub & climb new ones every time i go there. i personally find a lack of "developed" landings, trails and chalk on holds to be a big plus. Hope is gonna be a pretty dead area until the guidebook comes out then all the trendy losers will show up blabbing about chris sharma gossip and grabbing each others bum.

routes from 11a to 12+ across the valley... talk to mike crapo for info on the routes.

just trying to cause trouble...

I heard the website was down? LOTW the boulders get bigger the further uphill you go. Thats easily one of the biggest boulderfields aside from the Soo Slide anywhere in SW BC.

and ifn you do a websearch for rachel babkirk, the 4th thing down has her email address in it!!!!!!! guys, please use this knowledge responsibly...

We are the "other BBS!!!" Outrageous slander on Alpine Grade Inflation by Big Hurt Bob" I have seen this topic discussed before in reference to pure rock routes, but not in terms of alpine routes. Often times I am struck by how trivial many difficulties on alpine routes turn out to be despite hyperbole to the contrary. For example, I had never done any route requiring an approach over Sharkfin Col as I had often heard it described as being difficult, scary and requiring a double rope rappel that once pulled, commits oneself irrevocably. This past Sunday on our way to the North Ridge of Forbidden my partner and I easily navigated this problem via an obvious variation. No big deal. We had also heard that the North Ridge was loose. We were pleasantly surprised by how sound the rock was. There was a thread on ‘the other’ BBS discussing what a difficult, miserable bushwhack of an approach the North Face of Shuksan was. I had done 12 months prior and found it a bit brushy for only a short ways then pleasant open forgets and ridge line hiking. I have a hard time believing it would change that drastically in 12 months. I still laugh over an encounter I had in the Tetons at the fixed rope up to the lower saddle. We came up behind a climber who belligerently asked us what our plans were. We told him the full Exum. He proceeded to tell us what a difficult, committing route it was and we would be getting in over our heads. We thanked him for the advice and cruised the route, fully enjoying the solid, moderate climbing. I wonder what people are thinking when they make such statements. Is it because they are gym trained and don’t know from difficult? Maybe you should get on there and tell Big Bob how gay he is, MountainMan and RedMonk??? [ 08-15-2002, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

Metolius used to sell laser pointers so you could say "Grab that hold right there with your left hand dude" and put a red laser dot on the hold you meant!! [ 08-15-2002, 01:19 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

Hee hee if you do a search for "Snafflehound" using Google the first thing that comes up is Teddy Ruxpin!! Here is the exact text that appears : cascadeclimbers: SuperStar of Cascadeclimbers Part II ... To top it all off, when I reach the belay ledge and mantleshelf onto it I see Teddy's got this snafflehound and he's BUGGERING her like the salesman in the ...

I think it was someone else from California, Weissner didnt climb in the Bugs till the 50's right? And Bedayn and whoever did the Fa of the Se corner in 1936 or 1937? they were a sierra club party i do believe.... someone who has bugaboo guidebook by their computer can check this for us...

trask accuses another guy of spraymongerin' next thing capt. will call someone fat, and erik wil rip on sum dude for being a stoner... and Dru will call someone a beta spewin' walking guidebook... or a snafflehound

after the big skaha fire in 1994 everything was fine except a few glue-in bolts had the glue cooked and had to be replaced. oh yeah and a few flakes expanded or fell off.

ray, tupper, uto and sir don are all good there is no online topo for gimli s ridge. the beta is: climb the ridge crest the whole way. 1) start left of obvious corner and climb into it then up to top, belay like 5m above a small roof 5.8+, better take every piece of hand to fist sized gear you own. 2) go up ridge crest to pinnacle top 5.6 3) climb right from notch until you go back left on finger flake 5.8+ 4, 5) climb ridge crest 5.6 6) climb up to roof, undercling left, make blind reach around w/ left hand to hidden jug 5.8+ orange TCU is useful on this pitch 7) climb slabs 5.4 8 -10) hike to top Descend east ridge follow cairns 4th class no rope necessary Fred has done it so just ask him for beta "WHAT???"

This is a Coastal climbers secret weapon first invented by Dick Culbert and passded down through succeeding generations. Peanut Butter and Mayonnaise Sandwiches Take 2 pieces of bread. Spread peanut butter on one (best type to use is the organic "Nothing But Peanuts" stuff)and a thick layer of REAL mayonnaise (not some wimpy Miracle Whip) on the other. Put some raisins or dried cranberries on the mayo side and put slices together to make sandwich. YUM! Pretty soon you'll be leading 5.9 in hiking boots and rating it 5.6 too.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Nothing beats BD Camalots in the big sizes. They are wide and solid. The single shaft keeps them from walking. The colors make them easy to grab when your stuck in a chimney and you can't see your gear loops. Bronco, unless your going to climb the Kor-Ingels on Castleton Tower (or something like it) you don't need a #5 Camalot. I rarely do climbs when I need anything bigger than my #4. I think the new 3.5 and 4.5 are way cool and if I hadn't just bought myself a set of aliens I'd be covetting them, but as it is I have more cams then my hardest trad lead rating (I have yet to lead a 5.11 crack, but I have more than 11 cams). DMM cams are a waste of money. Have you ever tried the #5 and #6 Friends??? You might rethink your Camalot passion.

quote: Originally posted by krazy 1: ok i get all of those. but if horsecock is summer sausage and the like, what are pep sticks and little smokies? its ALL horsecock.

Canary at 5.8 would be 5.9 at Squamish if climbed before 1986 or 10a if put up recently! (Mclane grades are not corrected for inflation)

you guys are gonna be wankin forever you need 50 posts to be a hc lover...

i climbed the side of hidden treasures antiques store last night. nice finger crack in broken bricks.

ya, its a secret spot, eh? did you expect base of the chief type crowds? if'n you want beta to the hard problems like how to find them, i will pm you with the address of marc lefebvre who is working on the guidebook lake of the woods is way better than goldrush aka old hope, IMHO. there isd also an area of maple canyon like cobbles right on the outskirts of hope somewhere.