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Everything posted by Dru
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hey look at that I got a lurker to make its first ever post!
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well steve must have been having a liberace day when they took his pic!
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i see some spaniard just climbed a 20m long 14b barefoot (info courtesy www.8a.nu) so you should be able to do much easier climbing, which is basically hiking in comparison with 14B , barefoot
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Greg W is that a pic of Liberace you have up as your avatar pic now or what
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don't be dissin the fine metasport of pagetoppin'
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wow, deja vu
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Word is its passable to Depot Creek. Those signs are on every forest road in the province right now and do not necessarily mean the road is a write off.
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There is a story that Bruce Fairley was given an ice axe on some trip up Mt Deadlysteepsnowclimb, having never used one before, and was told "Here this is an ice axe. If you fall, stick it in". What more do you need?
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CASBC is on the case about murrin already. dont think they are planning any blasting there. its only supposed to be 2 lane with passing lanes from porteau to squamish anyhow...basically what is already there. as for apron p/l given how popular it is one hopes they are smart enough to expand lane the other way (west side) instead; would also require less blasting etc so prob. cheaper anyway we all know they never close the road on w/ends which is the only time American climbers visit Squamish anyway so YOU wont be inconvenienced at all
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they are already working on the road to whistler, have you been in cheakamus canyon lately.... they better not blow up my routes!
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No this was supposed to be a training run for BIG SCARY PROJECT which is on granite and has 1/4" stainless bolts dating from the late 80's.... better rock worse fixed pro? I dont think Jam'n is gonna be as keen on trad limestone unless he has some good exp. on same in da Rockies or on sporto French limestone when he goes to Europe to see Lance bike.
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its gonna be the Ross Rebagliati Olympics with lots of 420s in the halfpipe
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no the yellow one got the chop this time! but i decided to retire both of them now and am gonna buy 2 new ones.
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Just to clarify things a bit the rope was not cut between Ben and the belay device but in a loop of slack hanging down on a ledge about 1m below the belay. It was core shot with only 3 strands left intact. Coreshot was about 12m from the end. We ended up using the 12m of cut rope as rap anchors just like Twight says to in Xtreem alpinism. Rapping off with one 56m and one ~48m rope was interesting but there are enough old 1/4" intermediate stations that we made it down with minimal probs. Left a few bail biners behind on the top diagonal rap. (BOOTY) Only got hit once by rope pull induced rock fall on way down.
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he didnt read the article, he jumped the gun. dead humpbacks are not as noteworthy as dead, white sperm whales with peg legged mariners roped to them by harpoon Gregory Peck style.
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ya when i got home there was email from serl asking me if i wanted beta! nice to hear he finally sent after trying it all those times in the 70s.
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The short lived July freshie was seen deposited at 8000 feet and up on pks near Lillooet. Estimated lifespan = 1 hour or less.
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But as long as I keep recommending them I keep getting free ones! Don't worry, I hear www.elaho.ca is gonna enable a "discussion" forum soon race ya for first spray!
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50:08-124:12 more or less?
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There is an excellent chapter on "Blobs and Globs" in the excellent book Monsters of The Deep by oceanographer and marine biologist Richard Ellis. These unidentified chunks have washed up on the beach on many occasions. His conclusion: a yet unidentified species of giant octopus which may grow up to 100' long.
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Jordop leads pitch 4, a nice 5.6 groove, first time sun was out enough to take pictures. Szy sets out on 7th pitch. Block that pulled when offending orange TCU was yarded on during removal indicated. I had told Szy that it was "safe to belay off of" The scar. This was taken from the belay. Jordop and Szy got hit. I just got scared and my ropes got the chop. Probably we got off lucky. Main Wall of Marble Canyon where it all transpired. Back at the car beers are consumed as survival reward. This may be in the Guys of cc.com upcoming Photo Annual under the "man tit" section. Survival is good. Got beer?
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Actually McLane got the names reversed somehow and it stuck. The original Slow Duck is the 5.8 A2 above Dead End Dihedral, and the original; Slow Dyke is the 10a single pitch no pro dyke Peter Croft on sight solo FA'd. If you get that the Slow Dyke is a pun on Slow Duck it actually makes sense. As McLane has it it makes no sense. Oh well.
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So szjakowski jordop and I set off to celebrate Canada Day with a climb of Yellow Brick Road in Marble Canyon. Everything goes smooth at first. On the 7th pitch it is Szy's block starting and he heads out on a 10c pitch. Now its his 1st time ever climbing on limestone and after a couple of meters he decides to head back to the belay. While he is cleaning a TCU from an undercling, which he'd had doubts about but jp and I had assured him was "totally bomber man" a 3 foot by 3foot by 1 foot chunk of the undercling busts off catching him in the side and Jordop in the head & hand and he takes a short factor 2 on the belay... One severely chopped rope, one slightly nicked rope, one beat up leg (jammin) two smashed hands (jammin and jordop) and three severely wrecked psyches were the outcome so we bailed and liveds to climb another day. Beers later. I took some pics.. will post em eventually.
