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Everything posted by Dru
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This is the topo. Taken in 2003 with way more snow. The skinny tendril on the right looked like it would be a really good M5 with a bit more ice!
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I was wondering about that myself. I believe it is well to the left, out of the photo, more on the E face of the N ridge, as that is the part that is above the campground.
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would that be in green beckey?
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where was your honeymoon climbing destination?
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is that n face couloir on copper mountain climbed or not? it looks like a sweet line
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[TR] Guye Peak- Improbable Traverse 2/26/2005
Dru replied to Lokey's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Epic!!! -
it made me laugh too its hard to take these poser pictures with a straight face especially when you forget your sunglasses and have to squint against the glare
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That would be "vingt cinque".
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Under "normal" snow conditions you might want a Pieps instead of a rope?
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Spearhead or Garibaldi Neve- too lean still???
Dru replied to JasonG's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Trip report from Feb 20 with photos, lake frozen, no crossing problems Battleship Islands to Sphinx Hut -
Whatever
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first winter ascent Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter
Dru replied to Marko's topic in Alpine Lakes
There was good ice and neve conditions at 2000m in the Canadian Cascades this weekend. I was too wimpy to climb anything hard though.- 64 replies
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- alpine lakes
- mt stuart
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My weekend I saw a bunch of good slideshows and climbing films too at VIMFF. And climbed with an old friend I hadn't climbed with in like 8 years Alpine, rock, party, all in same weekend, in February
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Climb: Thar Peak-North Face Couloir Date of Climb: 2/27/2005 Trip Report: Saturday was sunny and warm, climbed in the Bluffs. Saturday night, got home at midnight to find my ropegun was sick and our Cheam Range trip was off. Woke up Sunday morning and decided to go investigate some gullies on the north face of Thar Peak at Coquihalla Pass. I wanted some of those good alpine conditions I had been vicariously reading about online, while it was still winter. I walked across frozen Falls Lake and looked at the big face with all sorts of potential snow and mixed lines. Most of them looked pretty hard so I decided to solo the main easy gully. It went down smooth, with lingering aftertaste A couple hundred meters of 35 to 40 degree windcrust and squeaky neve, a 60-70m length of 50 degree steeper stuff, and a 10m fun mixed chimney with turf, drytooling and thin ice, like 2 whole moves of each at the final 50m there were two choices, left or right. I went right, it turns out the left goes straight to the summit while the right goes to a col 30m down west ridge. The left fork looked like it had steep mossy mixed to finish, good thing I didn't solo it, it will be fun to do with a rope and rack next time. Photos out of order: Nak and Yak from the summit ridge. Frozen Falls Lake in the AM Summit cairn with Anderson R. peaks behind Looking up at face from the base. I ended up climbing the huge,mostly hidden, left angling gully. Lots more to do here. Summit enlightenment. Looking down my crampon tracks from mid way up the gully Looking down the crux chimney. I don't know if this was a first ascent or not. I have never heard of a previous ascent but wouldn't be surprised if one surfaces down the line. This is an excellent easy line, great to solo, slightly easier thasn N Face Ramp Harvey with a shorter approach, like 1 hour from the car. Total climbing and approach time was 4 hours, descent down east ridge took ~1 hour, half an hour eating snacks and taking pictures on top. Fun fun I forgot my sunglasses though, and my eyes are a bit sore. Gear Notes: Two tools (could have got by with 1) Crampons Helmet Should have brought sunglasses. Approach Notes: 1 km packed snowmobile trail, 1 km packed foot trail, 1 km frozen lake.
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[TR] Lillooet, BC- Night N Gales and more 2/19/2005
Dru replied to OlegV's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Might be more correct to say Duffys Delight lies 200m EAST of the Tube... actually to climber's LEFT of the Tube (Don always busts my chops when I get left and right confused in TRs, payback time!) I predict Don will come back with some pseudo-further clarification about how the road here is N-S so when I say east I should actually say NE or NNE or N or whatever -
Welch is the mountain of booty. I got myself a new ski pole there on Christmas Eve.
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it was alright, the guy may be a quaddy but he can still move some of his shoulders and forearms... he can jumar but not very well or very fast. i thought it was cool. they fix a route over up from the skies for him to try, so people can still climb on the grand without getting blocked off.
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But it wasn't the Stump/Logan, it was Infinite Patience, the 3rd route on the face. Maybe he should be offering up some sort of grant or $$$ if anyone repeats his route. Sort of like Jordan and Mike and Back of Beyond Buttress.
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Yeah JayB Mike should avoid that desperate guy thing by only looking for datable girls at say, Harley mechanics courses, or D&D tournaments, or by joining MT Hood SAR
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Don't forget the ballroom dancing classes. Or nursing school for that matter.