Dru

Stop defining my consciousness you guys! My gift doesn't want to keep on giving anymore!

Ethics refers to behaviour whether commendable or reprehensible! That's why it creeps into everything. People with bad ethics are losers At the grades you denote, I'd say the two come off about equal for #'s of routes done? And Pete Doorish would be in there too? But Beckey is global not just regional. Don't forget that in the 60's at one time he put up something like 100 routes Grade III-V in two years (the exact figure is in some profile of him in some old climbing mag...)

Brian Burdo more first ascents than Beckey?? But Beckey never chipped holds or bolted on cobbles..... You guys should spilt it up by category, like, best boulderer, best sport climber, best alpinist etc. - then the best climber is the one who is highest in the most categories.

It's OK Nolan. You can be straight edge all you like. I have lots of good friends who have no desire to add to their enjoyment of reality. Just don't get preachy about it!

puff puff. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum23/HTML/000026.html

erika, one thing i don't like is you talking about my ass, because if you're talking about it - you're thinking about it

In BC, a joint won't even get you a traffic ticket these days..... Hell, even growhousin' won't get you much. For the straight goods on lots of different chemicals try www.erowid.org

Here is a picture of Ben Lomond in the BC Coast Mountains. Looks sort of the same if you squint. It is a shitty picture anyways. The scanning is really bad. http://bivouac.com/mtn/PhotoPg.asp?rq=PhotoPg&PhotoId=291

See Mr. Adamson that's your problem - no limestone. In the CDN Rockies when you spit on slabs it dissolves the rock and makes a hole you can use as a hold. You can also make foothold features by peeing on the rock while climbing.

I asgree, unless you are a pro a nice point and shoot is fine for mtneering action shots when you are climbing. a Gigi or reverso will let you belay with one hand and shoot pix with the other. I've been using a Pentax Zoom90WR for about 9 years now and it works perfectly for steep alpine climbing shots. Can be slung over the shoulder while climbing or easily in top pocket of pack to access at belay.

That was Bubba Blanchard giving technical advice. Veisturs was too busy whoring for the cameras to advise. I hear it worked too. He's signed a new ten figure sponsorship deal with West Pole Brand .

At Beaver Point Provincial Park, and many other areas along the coast of Saltspring (and many of the other Gulf Islands like Maynbe and Saturna), there is wicked bouldering (especially splashdown traversing) on pocketed sandstone. No guidebook or route names just follow your nose. Also check out back issues of Climbers Access Society newsletter online at www.bivouac.com/casbc for the last few years of island beta including on the semi sectret new crag near Victoria.

It's Mount Paramount, located next to Bogus Mountain in the Arrghhh Range of northwest Shmeebistan. Middle Pongo Tower is across the valley and Mount Analogue is just down-glacier.

Hey NolanR when you say you have never seen "paraphenalia" in the mountains, does that imply you have never climbed in the Coast Range then? Or what? "I enjoyed it all, from the red wine and dope nights in the cave, to the neckiest moments of the climb" -Bugs McKeith, and he lived in Alberta (weak Eastern cousins of BC)

Best lesson from Vertical Lame-it: If you are dangling on a rope and trying to get a cam into a crack for an emergency anchor*, it's better to use an HB quad cam than a Metolius TCU. * For instance if you are simulsoloing and another simul soloing party falls on you, or if you are roped to a pot head and he falls off a cornice leaving you dangling by one ice tool...

Puff puff 4:20 PM!! Everybody meet in the parking lot!!

You can get rid of scholler pilling real easy by waving your lighter over the pills. That's how they fix pilling warranties at arcteryx.

I like how they made all the alpine suits out of cotton instead of nylon because it looked better on film.... The part about killing off your partners when you are trapped in a snow cave should be in Freedom of the Hills! Looks like a REAL survival technique Maybe they'll make a sequel based on the story of Pope and Donna with pope blasting his way into Donna's panties to rescue her from his fecal impaction They could call it Pervertical Limit [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 06-06-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Beck: . Powershield would probably be too warm for pants in any season here in the NW with the exception of stop and go at high altitude I wear my Arcteryx powershield bibs for all ice climbing and any mountaineering year round where i will be moving at night or in the shade most of the time. I have found powershield to be much more durable with regard to rips and tears than either scholler or goretex. two years of ice climbing and mountaineering and not one hole yet. scholler pants have several small holes after one summer of rock and mountaineering. MEC hooded powershield top is only 125 CDN and looks good not just in the mountains but when you are DJing in a club! a powershield hoodie, word!! Trivial fact: Alex Lowe really liked powershield bibs but TNF didn't make them. So he got a pair of the arcteryx ones and put duct tape over the logo to keep sponsors happy. take a look you can see it in the photos from great trango, great sail, etc. in climbing mag and national geo.

Famous British climbing story: Johnny Dawes: "Oh gosh this new E8 is rather difficult and dangerous. I do believe I should wear a helmet. Who has a helmet?" Nearby Scottish Climber: "I've got a purple helmet, mate." Johnny (ingenuously): "Oh super! Can I borrow it?"

Palm hair scientifically shown to minimize incidence of frostbite by 37.833% Look at Beckey - he named Vasiliki Tower after Vasiliki and she left him for a circus strongman. moral of the story: don't try to impress your girlfriend by naming stuff after her. so pope if you do some first ascent of a horrible flared, dirty, dripping wet offwidth, better not name it "Donnas Crack" You could name it Erik's Crack though.

"Hello Canadian Immigration and Border Control? This is Dru. Look out for a she-male named Erika Snyder coming up from Washington this weekend. S/He will be smuggling endangered species in hir bra. Detainment and strip searching recommended." If I go to Squishy this wkend we can hook up otherwise we might pass on the road if I go to Wash Pass this weekend! "if you see Kai" you too! I get it! [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 06-05-2001).]

Would "your friend Erika" be Erika Snyder by any chance?

I think they make special pliers for the EMT's so they don't have to use the finger of death. But you can probably only use them if "the head of the turtle is out of the shell" to quote Eric Hutton.

Why the harshness for prana stuff?? Ropegun is for posers but Prana makes some fine threads. I gotta nylon Prana ball cap, it is good for under the helmet on long sunny aid leads. Want some of their pants too. What about metolius, they have a nice fashion line as well....