Dru

There are sections that are 3 km thick! And thicker ones in Antarctica... thats where they get those climate core samples.

Dig that tube sock sling idea. Freedom of the Chosspiles? i knew a guy once who had to do a "jeans rappel" - they were out hiking an followed some creek down a canyon and got to a step that was too high to jump, so they took off their jeans, tied them together, and slid down them hand over hand in their underwear. that's one mtneering technique I have never used and hopefully never will.

Any continuous crack climb (doesn't have to be an aid climb, lots of good free climbs like Classic Crack make good clean aid practice climbs under the right conditions like nobody there) can be clean aided on cams and nuts. great for pouring rainy November days. and you can do it on solo-aid with a couple of clove hitches or a Soloist as a back up so you don't have to drag your girlfriend out in the rain to belay you. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-05-2001).]

Yeah - Actually I was referring to the BC Mountaineers but none of them know how to use a computer so.... none of them will notice.

They already have that seminar.It's called a Mountaineers Climbing Class

heh heh norway is not only place in the world glaciers are increasing. also on n. bc coast. more warming = more evaporation from oceans = more precip on BC coast = more snow on icefields (already snows 10 months out of the year up there) = bigger glaciers. when your glaciers are all gone we will let you come up and play on ours if you ask nice.

quote: Originally posted by Mike Collins: It is too late in the year for a day trip for two reasons. The footing on this peak is so low that the elevation gain is around 5,400'. The day is too short. Headlamps?

Evolution, revolution or De-evolution? Where can I get one of those "Darwin" fish with legs for my car anyways? I wanna piss off the Jesus freaks. note to jesus freaks: don't bother sending me preachy private messages. Use my email: fatboyclimber@hotmail.com [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-05-2001).]

My belt is only black cause I haven't washed it for 6 months. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-05-2001).]

[straight face]Do whales even menstruate? Wouldn't the blood in the water tend to draw sharks?[/straight face]

You can practice this with the help of a willing accomplice. "Relax! I'm gonna hit you!" "OK here goes!" SMACK! "OW!" "Guess you didn't relax enough. Let's try again. C'mon, RELAX this time!"

what about Mt Analogue?

What about inflatable sheep?

I would recommend the West Buttress of the South peak of the Old Settler to any climber of any ability. A good solo for the experienced - a great first alpine rock route for the inexperienced - a huge frickin' challenge for the incompetent.

The orange sticker at top left that you can't read says "DO NOT USE KNIFE TO OPEN". I used to have one that said "Manufactured with Female Components" but it fell off... [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-04-2001).]

in reply to forrest I think trad climbers generally tend to be more conservative and resent the newer breed of climbers, so they align them selves with older values and positions. except for the "new breed" trad climbers like Marc Twight who attempt to make traditional values out to be new and different, like the latest revolution in style. sport climbers used to be the latest revolution in style. and many gym climbers still seem to think it is. but the hippest of the hip is bouldering nowadays. sport climbing is so 5 minutes ago, so 20th century. get with the new times! bouldering is trendy and most boulderers are trendies trying to look hip. hence the baggy pants and toques,"yo". aid climbing... hey this isn't the 70's anymore. even the new trads like Twight dis aid climbing big walls as guaranteed out come climbing. but it s so easy to make a film of it and stroke your sponsors!! old school ice. with the new gear anybody even a fat 75 year old grandma can climb WI6. so what's the point? all those pillars are basically identical anyways. new school ice - sport climbers desperate to latch onto some cool cause sport climbing is so 5 minutes ago. but sport climbing with tools and crampons over your lycra is not any cooler except in the temperature department. mountaineering - just for those who thought vertical limit was cool. glacier plodding requires no skill and cannot be called climbing. all other mountaineering is just some combination of the above disciplines which i already dissed. so, all climbing is worthless. see ya at the crags. i'll be the one with the bouldetring mat and bent-shaft tools, yo.

compass, thats like a GPS but you need a map to use it right? or do you mean the thing with the spike and pencil holder you use in high school geometry class to draw circles?

safely - no consequences. many of the smith routes are kinda runout for modern sport climbs. Ive seen people using cheater sticks to make every clip but if you can 1) hit a ledge, 2) hit the deck, 3) take a cheese grater, 4) swing into a wall, spike, or block, then at minimum it may have been INTENDED to be a sport climb but the first ascencionist fucked it up! better add a bunch more bolts to make it safe, sport climber!

"the sheep, my friend, are blowin' in the wind..." you gonna arrest the wind for blowin' them sheep, ranger??

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I must say I am a bit let down wrote that elevator ride to Starbucks back to the puter and I only hooked two fish! But I did get a hook rare Canadian! Hee hee. Fair and square on that one.

A serious response for PP: IMHO, a sport climb is one where all falls can be taken "safely" and natural protection is not required. I include those routes where one piece of gear is required as sport climbs because on most of them skipping the gear placement does not make the resultant potential fall unsafe - like Plumline at Skaha, for instance. On the other hand a climb like Jugular Vein in Cheakamus Canyon, requires about 10m of crack climbing to reach the upper 20m bolt protected face, so even though it is mostly bolt protected, it is still a "trad climb" to me, because the gear cannot safely be skipped. But, Pope would probably call it a sport climb (I'm guessing), because the bolts were placed on rappel with a power drill...hehehe. My favorite definition of a "trad climb" is any route a self-defined sport climber won't climb [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-04-2001).]

So far this year I have climbed ~30 new pitches and placed 3 bolts. is it Ok to brag about it online? how many bolts should i place per pitch to meet the bragging requirement? MOMMY we go home now?

hee hee

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: That area just amazes me! It has so much rock. BTW germane to this thread didn't a pair of climbers fall to the ground off of one of those long "sport" routes? In Canmore, when?? The big issue on those lines is anonymous bolt removers taking a few bolts in a row off like the 8th or 9th pitch and sport climbers who can't hack the runout or place gear having to back off... not that i condone such actions but its kind of funny, "MOMMY there is 20 feet runout to the next bolt, we go home now!"

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Actually, Si and 38 have far bettter rock than the crap at index or squamish. The granite might be solid, but the only way to get any decent moves on it is to put them there. At least with 38 and Si, the trad climbing is safe because the cracks are bolted. Hee hee. This fish ain't taking that hook.