Dru

I see Osama bin and his homeboys drive Toyota 4Runners and Tacomas around in Afghanistan. if any one of you patriotic types wants to get rid of your toyota truck because of this fact i will take it off your hands for a small fee.

oooh good trollin' cast lambone, you hooked a portland fish!

Looking out the window ( I can see a tiny chunk of the summit pyramid from my office window here in Chilliwack) I would say total accumulation is on the order of 6 inches or less, just enough to make things interesting, probably no real avvy hazard yet... but it is maybe going to rain Saturday and then be nice Sunday. Think you can one-day it Sunday? Actually latest w forecast is for morning showrrs Sat then clearing. i say go for it. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-11-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Yikes go on a trip come back and nothing has changed. Same bullshit Issues regarding replacements of specific bolts aside, I think that in general we should all encourage the replacement of old bolts/fixed gear. Why did you come back if it sucks so bad? I agree with your last statement with the caveat - where it is needed.

quote: Originally posted by Hollywood: Freak, Please don't clip your self into gear on a dasiy. Falling onto a daisy is about the fast way to break a back I know. If you have to, put a screamer on it first. But that means two pieces of gear you don't need. Use a biner and the rope to forgo the daisy at ankers. John that only applies if you fall from above your piece if you are pushing it up you never get above it and your fall factor is one or less which is ok for static daisy. and using rope at anchors means you can't stretch the rope out as much. "daisy, daisy, gimme your anchor do!"

I here [sic] an echo - like the same things twice...

"the animal, the animal, bumps don't stop it, nothing will" was sort of what the animal commercial theme song said. i neveer had a tv so most of my memories were of my friends singing it i remember spy hunter. what about Death Race 2000 where you got points for running over as many pedestrians as possible? i used that to train for my driving exam!

quote: Originally posted by wotan of ballard: I'm not trying to sell going heavy, but I've had more turnbacks and scary events from going too light than going a bit too heavy. Alex did a good job in his article "Going Light in the Alpine" the right gear will vary from trip to trip, last weeks "right stuff" may have you cussing or worse the next. Too heavy -came out up to a couple hours or so later than expected, or threw food away, dumped water, hauled a pack a few times, took more vitamin I, got more conditioning than planned. Too light-1. bailed because too small rack, another time scary run outs. 2. cold all night and didn't sleep, wanted out at dawn, not summit - and almost died driving and dozing off. 8 to 12 oz of down would have prevented this repeating problem. 3.ski poles are great until the snow is firm and over 30 degrees. seen the guy going "light and fast" with ski poles fall way behind the other 2 with light axes (at much more risk of long scraping fall and maybe over a cliff) despite being experienced and in same condition as axe carrying guys kicking steps. This coming from a guy who carried a huge cross and a viking helmet up a mountain?!

I remember there used to be a toy off road vehicle called "The Animal" - when you pushed a secret button, big sharp claws came out of the tires!!

Those bastards!!!! http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/Conditions.htm

they make vodka from potatoes, don't they comrade?

Hey bin Spud, i hear that there is a free Anthrax concert in Florida right now. you like heavy metal??

quote: Originally posted by dane: I've not yet climbed any of the REI walls, but they are on my list. I figure when I obtain your level of skill I should be ready. Dane My amazing skill level comes from large quantities of BS and beer. I will have a training article published in Climbing Mag soon detailing all my secrets. It will be illustrated with pictures of Tori Allen applying the tips described in the article and gradually coming to resemble Mae West.

you mean "aid climbing rapist" Sean Isaac. see leo houlding article in new AAJ for complete quote.

you might see an old man named fred beckey up there dragging some young climbers up one of those unclimbed lines. he was pretty keen on it last spring but the right snowpack stability never materialized. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-10-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Squire Creek Wall has several multi-pitch routes, and some are bolted. The approaches are brushy and scary, and the bolts are generally 1/4" or even 3/16", mostly without hangers on them. The only published information is at cands.net. How do you find those 3/16" bolts, with a magnifying glass or what??

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: ... and how did she look from on top? I was up at Prussik sitting in a cave drinking rum, remember. I'm reporting secondhand. Thought that was pretty damn cool. Another example, Lena Rowat, she has been climbing for ~5 months and she led the whole NE buttress of Slesse in August. That chick is a psycho though. Also insanely fit cause she is a circus athlete and can do one finger handstands and suchlike. so it aint much of a surprise there.

...unless the reason you are asking is because you want someone to second up some looong route. if you are looking for a partner for, let's say the Edwards/Spagnut on Steinbok, and your potential partner seconds 10a max and has never jumarred, hmmmm.... potential epic??

Ask him what's going on in that Koflach ad in the latest Rock and ice. is she feeding him a jalapeno or what???

a lot of times the winning films dont even get shown on the Best Of tour, they only show what they think will sell to a mostly non-climbing audience. in vancouver they ALWAYS show a euro lycra ski film and a 15 minute kayak wank shot of some idiot spinning around in a little whirlpool in slow mo with a hard on. and a stupid documentary about some third world place with lots of tear jerking and a mountain peak somewhere behind a starving villager. VIMFF you get to see lecture by VOYTEK KURTYKA!!!!!!!! "this face is 2500m high so we take ... two ice screw and three pins. buy me beer after and i tell you what sizes!" [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-09-2001).]

got blizzarded on at Enchantments over weekend. sat in cave at base of the prong drinking rum & watching "ard core" Conor and Matt suffer up the Burgner Stanley across the way on Prussik. funny seeing what two pitches of chimneys will do to your down jacket

grades are important so when you go to do a route,lets say ne buttress of slesse, you know if 5.9 is a struggle for you you might have a hard time! but on the other hand if someone comes up to you and brags about how they just flashed 14a, "whatever dude- i got more of a workout than that on a 5.9, and i get to eat real food too" PS i redpointed 10d once and i onsighted a v2 at j tree but it was really v0+

I save my pennies for the VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINEERING FILM FESTIVAL which still has soul. (late Feb. or early March). Banff is for media whores and the winning films are always overproduced trash or nature studies with a mountain in the background of one shot. The only good thing about Banff is you can sneak out and climb with an alpine idol of yours, or smoke a joint with leo houlding. and make fun of the hero worship guy getting his orange patagucci jacket signed by everyone.

oh my god the lurkers are posting! what next?

only climb solo then you can get rid of the cams and nuts and rope. plus you go faster so you dont need a tent or sleeping bag or extra clothes. basically just a pack with water and food, oh and maybe a camera for later spray email - "here i am on top of the Shmeeb!!"