Dru

like the bolts in frankenstein's neck?

Maybe Bonzo is Bob Cordery-Cotter and he's jealous?

quote: Originally posted by verticalswamp: the NW face on Matier has a 'schrund big enough to park several buses in right now. It was enough to turn back several moderately rigid members of the Vancouver chapter of the Chippendale Nightmares Sambuca review. Remember Mugs. Mugs and Jugs? I thought they kicked you out of that team of strippers after the incident with thecucumber, Charles?

How did the Direct, aka McDonald/Mather Route, look? How were those seracs of death on top of it? [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-20-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by JJason: Did Iconoclast for the 5th time last June and wanted to clarify these bolts. The bolts at the top of the 1st 10c pitch replaced slings behind sketchy blocks that have shifted over time. Some of the sling material is still evident in this location as it was pinched off beyond removal when the blocks shifted. The bolted anchor on top of the upper 10c pitch is there to replace what was once was a living cedar tree. Repeated use of slings around this tree choked the remaining life out of it rendering it useless and a hazard to those below. The "chicken" bolt is in the same location as where the leader could first "sling" a branch on the tree. --Jon Slings around trees don't kill trees. Rapping using trees - not slings around a tree but rope right around the bark - girdles the tree and kills it stone dead.

confiscated for use by monica lewinsky??

its faster going in via Cerise Cr./Anniversary Gl., but shh dont tell anyone

More from Anders: Hello everyone! As with previous messages about the lower Malemute, this is being sent to 140+ climbers. Please feel free to forward it - hopefully its not unwelcome! We continue to ask that climbers refrain from climbing at the lower Malemute (anywhere less than one pitch above the tracks) until further notice. We will notify climbers immediately if climbing becomes permitted there, and if so under what (if any) conditions. Observant climbers in Squamish report that few if any have been climbing at the lower Malemute over the last few weeks, and we thank you for your co-operation. Representatives of various climbers' groups met with B.C. Rail Police on 4th September. Constable Thom, who we met, has considered the situation, and is waiting to meet a manager to discuss it. We hope this will occur soon. Management must ultimately decide what might be acceptable. It appears that any solution acceptable to B.C. Rail may take some time to implement, and involve fundraising. We have been putting some thought into the latter. Anyone with ideas, or contributions, should contact us. Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Squamish (Murray Sovereign) is sponsoring an awareness/fund raising event on Tuesday 9th October. 8:00 PM at the Brew Pub in Squamish. $8.00. Speaker Sean Isaac, one of the world's leading mixed climbers. Proceeds will be donated toward whatever we must do at the Malemute. Please call or e-mail if you have any questions or ideas. Thank you! John Howe (climber-activist, Squamish Search & Rescue)Kris Wild (Squamish Rockclimbers Association) Kevin McLane (guidebook writer) Brent Mathieson (Ass'n. of Canadian Mountain Guides)Anders Ourom (Climbers' Access Society of B.C.) (604) 228-1798

4) Shipton Spire getting nuked by a dumb smart bomb. 5) the world supply of falafel being reduced.

Maybe this story should be changed to the adventures of pope and donna top step in the danger zone?

I'm glad someone mentioned chicks with pit bush. Woo Woo!!!!

The entire White Salmon is apparently a popular ski route in winter according to local ski touring guidebooks. Sorry, can't help with approach via the Arm.

Pope, did you crap your pants as well as your sleeping bag, or what?? See my comments to Capt. on the Slesse thread about adult depends. you could avoid future problems...

Liners - I bought a bunch of Thorlo liners at "Liquidation World" for $5 a pair. really like them at that price! only disadvantage is that you have to wash thenm with fabric softener once in a while. used to have those $4 polypro liners but I kept melting them in the dryer. i never had that bunch up liner problem but then again my feet are pretty tough, only times I ever got blisters is 1) hiking with soaking wet feet after falling off a log (yes it was easy )into a creek in the Cathedral Park area, and 2) forgot the liners and hiked in a single pair of Stanfields wool work socks.

Naw, I'm not extreme enough

Retrosaurus you a strong man planning to lug that heavy crowbar up a bunch of tough 10c pitches!!

Here is the Mt.Louis/Kain Route TR (chest beating): Fern and I had arrived in the Rockies the previous evening. After a sleepless night in Wapiti campground listening to Quebec skids playing metal covers of Celine Dion on their van stereo, cranked all the way up, at 3AM, we finally decided to hit the road about the time the sun rose. Soon we were pulling in to Fireside picnic ground and heading up the Edith Pass trail following the directions given in Sean Dougherty’s Rockies climbing bible. It was hard to tell what time it was as my body was on Rockies time but my watch was still on BC time. I couldn’t tell if I was fast or slow! Hiking past the impressive east faces of the Mt. Edith peaks I came to the turnoff to Mt. Louis and Gargoyle Valley and took it. Soon after Fern arrived at the junction and took the other path. After about an hour an empty feeling behind me saw me sit down and wait. Meanwhile Fern retraced her steps and saw the telltale 5.10 tread pattern heading up the other fork. She caught up and we wandered over to Gargoyle Valley – wow! The huge pinnacle of Louis poked up into the clear Alberta sky. It was hard to believe the route we were going to follow was mostly 4th and easy 5th class, looking at it from the ground. With all the time wasting it was about 11 AM when we started up the route. We scrambled up steps of steep, somewhat loose rock for a while following a trail of rappel webbing wrapped around every bush and blade of grass imaginable. Obviously lots of people back off this route. Finally we hit the wall referenced in the text and roped up. I led out up a “5.4” pitch up a watergroove/chimney thingy. There are several adjacent ones to try – I went up the right one. Difficult for 5.4, I probably should have gone left. After putting in a cam behind a loose flake I ran it out 25m to the anchors – another slung bush. Nice. It turned out we were too far right so the next pitch traversed across the middle of an loose slab to a rubble gully and up to the next tree. Fortunately the trees were just perfectly spaced about 55m apart on this portion of the climb. When Fern arrived at the belay ( I was leading all the pitches because I had forgotten my helmet and didn’t want to be below a climber on rock this loose) we had a big discussion about whether to bail or not. Certainly we could have (the rock was not great and it was already almost noon), but I had been wanting to climb Louis for 10 years, and we would have had to come back to the same point sooner or later… we accepted the possibility of a bivi and pressed on. A few more loose pitches traversing ledges got us to the south east arete which the route climbs. The next few pitches featured exposed climbing up this arete, on mostly low angle and somewhat loose terrain. Ah, the joys of Rockies climbing. I was glad I had climbed at Marble Canyon because there is not much else loose limestone around the Coast to play on and prepare oneself for the Rockies. The SE arete butts up against a headwall about 2/3 of the way up the mountain. Here one makes an odd traverse onto the south face by downclimbing or rappelling a gully for 25m, followed by an odd sideways traverse across several rock ribs and gullies. The traverse does not ascend as much as you think it does… I had to downclimb to a lower ledge in the middle after following a trail of sucker holds that moved around a corner and dead-ended in the middle of a blank limestone slab. Fortunately this pitch reassures you that you are on route by giving you a bolted belay at the end… bolts! Fantastic! While I was belaying Fern the wind snatched my brand new hat and carried it far away down the south face. I consoled myself by thinking of a brood of ravens raising their young in it. It was just the right size to make a good nest. From the bolted belay the route climbs up a series of gullies and ribs for three pitches. Dougherty suggests “move left to a solid rib” and in fact you move left out of a gully onto a rib, left into another gully, and left again onto another rib. The ‘wrong’ rib has a huge nest of back-off slings not visible from below, a bit further up it, which you can see once you make it onto the leftmost rib, the correct line of passage. The top of this rib is a plateau with the final summit tower looming ahead. You have the choice of a horrible, loose, rubbly, squeeze chimney of death (Kain’s original line), or a steep ‘crack’ to its right, which is not really a crack but more of an eroded trough – the so called ‘Perren Crack’. Its not a hard choice to make. The Perren crack is the crux of the whole route. It is quite steep but generally runs up a solid wall featured with good holds. You face climb along near the crack, occasionally fist- or foot-jamming in it, and finding lots of obscure gear placements and rusty old pins to clip. After about 30m of this, that I found difficult and interesting to climb in my Mountain Masters, I simultaneously ran out of slings, and found a good stance with a bunch of sketchy old fixed pins. I decided to belay… As the stance was so small switching the belay would have been like playing Twister so Fern suddenly discovered she was going to have to lead through onto the last pitch. It turned out not to be that bad, and more importantly, she didn’t throw any rocks down on my unprotected head. We summitted about 6PM- BC time I believe, and admired the huge iron cross on the summit silhouetted against the rapidly setting sun. Below us lay 15 pitches of mostly 4th class rock with about 5 of the pitches involving real 5th class climbing. Obviously simulclimbing a lot of it with a short rope to minimize drag would produce a faster time than our seven hours up. Following the directions of the guidebook we began rapping the gully down the west side of the mountain. After the first 50m rappel on slings the remaining ones are set up with bolts and chains. In between these are manky old sling and pin stations so it could be rapped with a single rope. In fact to minimise rockfall at the top while pulling the rope we did make the first few raps as 25m ones. The last long rappel is great with some overhanging sections and we touched down right at sunset. From there it was a three hour hike back to the car, in the dark. My headlamp had died the night before – done in by the Quebec guys’ music? –anyways Fern had a spare mini-mag which saved the day. The last part of the hike out went through a nice meadow and larch forest in the full moonlight and was very aesthetic. However I was running to prevent us getting locked in for the night and ticketed, and didn’t have that much time to enjoy it. Turned out to be a false alarm, looks like they never lock that gate or enforce the no parking after 11PM rule. At around midnight we pulled into Canmore and hit a late night pizza joint for some quality grease intake. We drank about 5 pitchers of iced tea each and then headed off to a clandestine bivy by the rail tracks. The trains going by in the night were annoying but after the Quebecois music of the night before we slept like babies by comparison, and the price (free) was right…

You have two of them?? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000212.html

Oh, the upper Chehalis road is worse than any of those. The water bars are dug so deep they eat 4x4 pickups with giant tires for breakfast..... The Hurley River road is kinda jinxed. not a bad road but something always seems to get damaged on your car when you drive it - wheel falls off the next day or something. sort of inexplicable. bermuda triangle effect??

Yeah Alpine Tom your slip is showing! I prefer "moo-wing" the lawn. You sit on the porch and drink Jack Daniels while the cows eat the grass.

You can get nice stainless 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Fixe cone-and-wedge designs at MEC.... they don't have the same torque problem as torque bolts - just drill the hole the right depth and pound them home. A personal tip when you place a bolt of this type - put the hangar on the bolt, and the nut, before you start pounding it into the hole. why? because if you smack that thing good you can strip or deform the threads on the head and then its damn hard to get the nut to go on. also, don't forget the drinking straw to blow the dust out of the hole before you start pounding the bolt in!

Maybe in addition to replacing old bolts someone should print up a little sign saying "You can thread your rope through these and rappel" and put it on top of Orchard Rock, cause everytime I have been up there, there is webbing tied through the rappel hangers on top!!

Didn't mneagle or someone else on this site recently (last few months) say they did the direct start and it was good??

In response to a point of haireballs, unless crag is on private property and you pay to use it, I don't think anyone is "responsible" for fixed gear. you should understand it can deteriorate and plan your climb accordingly. but then again, I don't understand American liability law. Is Forest service responsible for all bolts on FS land? Is NPS responsible for all bolts in Parks? i don't think so. is bolter responsible for placing bolts correctly? morally, yes. legally, ?? if I climb up what looks to be a sport route, clip a glue in that was improperly placed (glue not mixed right), fall on it and it pulls right out, could I sue guy who bolted it? probably not. who should replace manky old gear? anyone capable of doing so who wants to perform public service. what gear should be replaced? thats a tough one. a good new bolt for a shitty old bolt is easy to agree with. tricky decision is when removing and replacing old fixed pins. bolts or gear, how much and where? climb on, MEC have bolt replacement funds. you put money in box along with suggestions. someone with drill comes along, uses money to buy bolts, replaces them. this is usually well done, sometimes a bit controversial. Neat & cool, squamish Buttress crux have gone from 4 fixed pins to none in last 8 yrs. you can get gear in, so pins not replaced. horrors of ivan went from 4 fixed pins to 2 bolts, still a gear route. fatty bolger had new bolts added next to old - old bolts were in too good to pull, according to sheila sovereign, who did it (she used big crwobar to no avail). she added some new ones where there were not old ones as well! its a bit of a mess now. an example of what to avoid......

I've found that applying anti-perspirant/deodorant to the feet works well for avoiding 'sandal stench' on hot summer days.