Charlie

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: quote:Originally posted by Charlie: So, no topo??? Topo's are for sport climbs. Don't you want ANY sort of adventure? Find the tree and figure it out yourself. The rest of us did!! Chill out. I was joking about the "so, no topo" thing because I wasn't expecting such detailed beta from chuck. You don't use a topo when you do a climb for the first time, when you have no idea where it even starts? I wanted a topo because I was doing both routes in a day with a late start and didn't want any complications. No "nice work, man" only blah blah blah...I am better than you because I didn't use a topo...blah blah blah. What were you doing yesterday? I know what I was doing.

http://home.houston.rr.com/stoner63a/page1.html

So mebody get this guy a tampon

Blah blah blah...anyway, yes, as of last summer, the whole route goes clean. The last 2 pitches (crux flare thing leading into the bolt ladder) can be linked into 1 with a 60m rope. The bolt are spaced out in 1 or 2 spots, so you either have to do a 5.8 free move or hook to reach the next bolt. The triple overhang pitch is mostly all fixed: old rusty pins with old freyed webbing. Have fun

After reading this post, I've decided to distance myself from this site for a long time.

one fish in the net

So, no topo???

Oh yeah, I'll be there in june.

Shower at the housekeeping camp- just walk in like you know what you're doing and it'll be free. Early june is when all the college hotties start showing up for work at the villages- scoop one up before she finds out about the dirtbag climbers, and always tell them you're going to be there all summer . The buffet at the lodge is easy to sneak into (done it about 15 times) and check the board at the ranger kiosk for climbing partners/ cheap deals on gear. Obviously, use the bear boxes and don't leave anything resembling food in your vehicle (you'll be rousted out of bed by wildlife mangement or a bear will rip your doors off). Don't talk to chongo or look at his book. Climb lost arrow spire!

still need the topo....

Better yet, somebody want to meet me at the trailhead tommorow with the topo, then climb it with me?

Thanks for the helpful info, Pope

Does anyone have a topo for Orbit that they could post on here or email me? Chuck? Of the 3 guidebooks I have covering this climb, the page is missing in all of them. Thanks

OK, I am an asshole, but he didn't know that.

The guy is a dick. Notice how many extra mags for his (our) glock he had on his gun belt? I counted (3). Tell me that's not a gung- ho authority monger. Armed to the tee, with a bad attitude. I grew up in white center- where there were real badguys, and a REAL chance of a cop getting shot at, and they were a lot cooler- especially to harmless white kids. I was completely cooperative to him last weekend and felt like I was miss treated. He went out of his way to treet me like I was an asshole.

A real message board! Funny, I don't see theses guys threatening each other. Check out "the lounge" We need one of those on cc.com http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=77

Local Hardmen on thier way to Castle Rock!....we're not worthy

Ray has been known to handle a pole, or two while in the "back" country!

another thing- a useful trick for following is to pre-size your daisies for jumaring- mark the correct loop with a sharpie, so you can set up quickly. (we all know what a pain jummaring is if your daisy lengths are incorrect)

I use 3- one connected to each daisy chain, and one clipped onto my harness for reserve- if I come to a tricky/akward move, I clip on the 3rd.

what is the url for smoot's site?

aww, thanks guys yesterday was my b-day [ 05-01-2002, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: Charlie ]

Chuck- once again, you are the internet king- your website kicks ass! I thought you were supposed to pull the roof via the crack right in the middle of it. I'll send you a pm soon to try and climb it with ya.

yeah, that's me. damn, you're still ridin' my ass did any of those ticks end up finding a home in ya? I came out clean.

anybody out there done the rpm (10b) variation on snowcreek? I was going to try it yesterday but pussed out. The topo I have is pretty vague- do you come at the roof crack from the left or the right? What size is the crack? Is it overhanging once you pull the roof? Is the crux pulling the roof, or just getting into it? Anybody want a belay bitch to follow them through this pitch?