Charlie

OK- were are the new cracks you guys cleaned? Wanna give some info or is this your "secret spot?" I'm running out of good cracks in the icicle (at my mediocre level anyway)

Speaking of castle rock- does anybody know the story with all of those wooden wedges pounded in around the corner(to the left) of the ddd route?

Dwayner top step.. (transexual: somebody who identifies himself or herself as and wants to become a member of the opposite sex) [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 08-01-2001).]

Mickeys!!!??? I'm a college man- I left White Center years ago.

Also, did you guys notice the new bolted route to the left? Around the corner from saints- there are bolts right above and below a perfect hand crack (#2,#1 chamelot wouldn't have done the trick?) and lots of places for small nut placements elsewhere on the "route." Notice the access fund sign in the parking lot?- it says specifically "do not place bolts on an exsisting route or places where natural protection could be used." Maybe they should offer Hooked on phonics classes at the climbing gym or the Hilti/ bosch stores.

I use this one on my mother all the time: "better to be in the mountains thinking about god than to be in church thinking about the mountains.".....Oh yeah: "sport climbing is niether." [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 07-31-2001).]

I'm not at all putting down what you guys did- bolting that route was bullshit and chopping the bolts made a good statement. But, the chop job looks like hell. All around where (at least the first bolt was), the rock is totally scraped and scarred up.

I hate vantage as much as anyone....It's been too hot over here to even think about the place, but I had a couple of hours to kill so we headed over to check it out. Zig Zag wall- it's completely in the shade. Climbed a few bolted routes that weren't too bad. Id say they're somewhere in the mid 10 range. I also climbed a couple of cracks- very dirty but with a little cleaning they could be pretty good

fisher chimney route on shucksan. Ive done it twice and will probably do it again. This year may be a bad year for it due to low snowfall. Ask around about the glacier conditions. This route contains a little bit of everything- thousands of feet of 4th class, 2 very steep snow chutes, serious glcier navigation, and 500 feet of 4th/ low 5th to the summit....my second favorite alpine route.

Did sharkfin last weekend. The ridge is easy and fun (5.0). We toproped the face route(5.10). You can be lowered down and then climb both pitches as one with a 50 meter rope. Somebody chopped the bolts on the face route????!

I would like to walk around at the base of the sunshine wall with John Long- and help him beat the hell out of everyone in sight!

Did Cathedral a couple of weeks ago. Awesome. The rock has a unique teture to it. Kind of like Smith- covered in little protruding pebbles. How about that summit, boys? The scenery is great, total alpine feel.And the chimney......surprisingly pleasent.If you want to knock off another 50 classic, do lost arrow spire. Its not difficult, you're actually only climbing 2 pitches but there are a lot of logistics involved..definetly get some beta.

Pope, I must confess. Just 2 mornings ago I was waking up in camp 4. Now Im back here reading this crap. I feel horrible, I was climbing pitch after ultra classic pitch in the warm sun. When I should I have been here in the rain, in front of the computer, engaging in mindless psychobabble.....Im sooooo sorry!

Thanks

On the west ridge, what descent did you take? Did you need 2 ropes?

I hear ya brother. The problem is- girls are ultimately attracted to the fact that a guy climbs- very fit, couragous, doesn't sit and watch football every weekend, usually well travelled. But what they later realize is that a climber does just that- climbs, all the time! Ive chose the mountains over women many times, and many times Ive lost them because of it.......to hell with 'em. Ive got the rest of my life to be domesticated, why rush it?

[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 06-04-2001).] [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 06-06-2001).]

The gentlemen I spoke of im sure had nothing to do with the gridbolting. In fact they have been know to heckle you while you're on a bolted route. As far as cracks, Im sure they have some first ascents.

The rock came off of air guitar. 10a crack route (highly recommended by the way) From what I heard, it didnt fail. One of the crazy painter guys (if you've spent any time at the coulee you know who Im talking about) pryed it out but it was ready to go- it was one of the anchors off the top. Sorry retro, if there was a testicular impact it would have been to one of our trad brethren, not one of the sportys.

That rock ended up on my porch- I left it there when I moved and was pretty surprised when I saw the picture. Was that picture taken in the coulee parking lot? Or on my porch? Who is the chick, and what is she doing on my porch? [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 05-31-2001).]

Jimbo, you know you're on here way too much when being friends with you gives you instant clout! Here that, nobody mess with me, Im in JBlakely's gang!

Hey Donna, didnt I find your silk panties, harness, and helmet at the base of outerspace a couple of monthes ago? Then hike them out for you? Sorry, I kept the panties. And what thanks do I get?... I end up with a "Yes, I am" licence plate frame on my truck....P.s., you are one of the ugliest women I have ever seen.

I was there on saturday, Gaper, were you the guy from Florida?- anyway, the road stops 3 1/2 miles from the trailhead. Bring snowshoes or skis it's postholing from where the road ends all the way to the lunch counter. Also, dont be a dummy like me and try to take road #23 down- its closed 25 miles down- I lost 3-4 hours of driving time!!!!!

Blah blah bla... chirp chirp chirp.......lame

I cant believe you talked Malibu into posting that and saying his name was Donna