Wallstein

Sounds to me like a butterfly. Except coiling from one end to another. This is how i do it and most of the people I climb with. I have never heard it referred to as the FRENCH coil. Fuck the French. They're lame. Their is a way to do this coil that is probably 10 times faster than what was just explained. Coil the rope over the back of your neck, keep each hand holding onto the the end of the loop it just created. Its kinda hard to explain but does the exact same thing and not nearly as pumpy and usually creates a much neater coil.

2 guys from Washington did it. Does it really matter?

No tim its not a trick question. I have room in my van and wouldn't mind splitting the gas costs. Its back to work for me finally.

The whole route got scrubbed this winter. and all of the bolts were replaced.

Does anyone want a one way ride to Yosemte on Sunday?

I CANT AGREE MORE! Erik = A5 = sketchy

I saw VF last year. It was a great movie with lots of great footage. The best part is when John Muir is doing the first ascent of cathedral peak. Check it out, he is wearing 5.10 guide almightys!

#1 Correct the bowline does untie easier after being loaded and also comes untied when you don't want it to. #2 A fig8 can be tied so the tail faces the harness also. Pick up craig luebben book for a pic of this. #3 So is a fig8, unless you are talking about when its loaded. #4 When I untie my fig8 knot there doesn't seem to be any knot left in the rope... #5 There is a wrong way to tie any knot. #6 Using some funky knot to freak people is about as stupid as it gets. I try and not freak people out when i climb. I can think of one major disadvantage of using a bowline. Many people (lambone )don't know how to tie a bowline, especially the "sweedish bowline." I like to be able to glance at a partners harness to check that the knot was tied correctly. This is much easier to do with a figure8

I have some friends that went over to Peter Crofts house to pick him up to go climbing and he used that excuse.

I think you gotta get real stoned and drunk and then some portal opens up down by happy isles. Its a magical thing..

Baby Orca is way out of my leage! In fact it shut down the "famous" Cedar Wright. Erik snagged the first ascent of it, hence the name.

Are you looking to crag or do long routes? Craggin I would say, everything at the cookie and arch rock. There are some good warm up routes on the left side of el cap. Sacherer cracker and moby dick are good intro's. Theres good craggin off the midway ledge on the rostrum, around the 11+ range. Cascade falls also has some good craggin albeit kinda hard. Crimson Cringe is probably the best 12- in the park, mega hand jamming indurance. Tips is another good one around there, sorta contrieved start but an amazing splitter. For long routes, I would definetely say the Rostrum, amazing handjamming! Serenity to sons of yesterday is great once you get past the first shitty pitch. NE buttress (or the crucifix at 5.10 A0 or 12b) of higher Cathedral rock is also a must do. Regular route on higher cathedral Spire is also a very entertaing outing at 5.9, can you say old skewl. Theres some good bolt clippin at chapel wall, if your into that sort of thing. The great escape is classic with 3 pitches of mid 5.11, all bolted Theres also this place called swan slab.....it great!

Ah just clip them for pro and free climb past them...

Biggest: 40-50 on El Cap, blew 6 pieces and had a 1 RP stopp me. If it handn't of held it would of turned into 75-100... Yikes Scarriest: Whipper from the top of an ice route at Banks when the tree (anchor) I was holding onto ripped out of the ground. I fell almost the length of the route. I was upside down stairing eye to eye with my belayer when he caught me. Not sure of the length but probably around 45ft. Falling is fun

A couple of weeks ago I tried to climb Mt. Kozicosko, the highest mountain in Australia. As we were getting ready to go in the parking lot some lady told us we should put our 'thermals' on, we laughed as we didn't really have much clothing. And what did she know we were climbers! So we headed up, it starts by either riding a chairlift up or walking, we choose walking. It started raining part way up the walk and we became soaked almost immeditely. I had on cotton pants, cotton t-thirst, a light fleece and a cheap rain jacket. We kept going though and eventually reached the top of the charlift. From here a metal grait walking path leads to the top. It was another 6k to the top from here. We kept going and it kept raining and getting colder. We started joking that we might have to turn around, never thinking we would really have to. It got so cold that I couldn't feel my hands anymore and my shoes were starting freeze to the metal track. We kept going though. We got within 500m of the top when I couldn't even use my hands anymore. So we tried to take a picture but failed and decided to turn around, totally humiliated. We couldn't stop laughing though. We got shut down on a metal walking trak, during the middle of the summer in Australia. When we started we thought it would be the first of our 7 summits. I am not even sure if Mt kozicosko counts though??? I guy in town helpped to heal our wounds by telling us that is was -18c on the summit with wind gusts of 140k/h.

I have used lots of different brands and my favs are Mammut and Eldeweiss. The best cheap rope I ever bought was a 9.5 Eldeweiss Laser. I think it reatails around $140, dry 60m. It has around 175 days of use and i still use it heavily for work. My Favorite all time rope is a mammut supersafe. Kinda heavy but has a good feel and a really good sheath, really spendy though (around $240 i think) I think my supersafe has around 125 days of use and is still going strong. The worst ropes I have ever owned are sterling marathons, I went through 3 in 1 year. Core shots to all of them. Two of them were ruined the first day I used them. Way over priced, heavy, and get super fat and hard to handle. The sheath is way to soft! I get free sterling ropes for work and choose not to use them because they SUCK so bad. I have had pretty good luck with Beal/BD ropes. They seem to be a good deal for the price. I have lots of friends that climb on Esprit ropes and rave about them. They look like shit after a couple of uses but they never get worse. The sheath on these ropes are very tight giving the rope a stiff feel but making the sheath bomber. Though they are harder to manage due to the stiffness.

I have about 6 biners that are broken or almost broken. Most of them I broke using a funkness trying to get out pins. I have broken one carabiner while hauling but I can't say it wasn't crossloaded, as i wasn't close enough to really see it. We were hauling a bunch of shit! I have a few friends that have broken carabiners, two of the cases i have heard about were while people were aid soloing. Both cases were falls real close to the belay. Of the carabiners i have broken, most of them have broken at the bottom of the gate. I have only snapped two down the spine. The easiest carabiner I have found that breaks are the older BD light D's. The gait seems to come open easy due to a weak spring.

The descent off of middle cathedral has stabilized alot since the rockfall. I stayed away from it for a few months but went down it in October. Its not nearly as bad as everyone has said. It was very unstable after the rockfall due to heavy amounts of rain but is no worse now than it was before the rock fall. The rappel anchors were hit with rock fall but are still usable. Have a good time bill, see ya down there soon.

People actually show up in Yosemite expecting to find gysers...

I did Iconoclast to EOS with my bro a couple of years ago, I think during the CC ropeup. The bolts below library ledge are in the middle of the pitch that connects Iconoclast to library ledge. It seemed to me they were in a funny place. I just clipped them and kept going to the ledge. As for EOS not nearly as heady and scary as one might think. Getting to the first bolt was exciting but after that the scaryness was over. I did the pitch as one long 200ft pitch to a natural belay real close to the top.

Last time I was in Curry village it was in Yosemite. Did they move it to Yellowstone this winter?

For me hanging on something makes it hard for me to grade, a short hang can make something feel way easier than it really is. As opposed to climbing something without falling where I have a good idea as to who hard it was. I said 11+ because I fell on lead and did it without hanging on toprope but maybe it was hot and greasy the day i did it.

Just a word about those metolius adjustable daisies. They are meant for body weight only. Metolius does not even give them a strength rating. Metolius says not to belay off of them and always use a full strength runner or the rope to clip into the anchor.See metolius page here. I had a friend blow a piece and fall onto his other metolius adjustable daisy and it broke leading to a 40ft fall. These style of daisy are definetely easy but not the most bombers piece of equipment. I reli to heavily on my daisies to trust the metolius adjustables. Using the flotable 3rd aider is the way to go. I don't use a full length aider but a 3 step (a former 5 that i cut up). This method is a little lighter and easy to store when free climbing. It sounds like you already bought some aiders muffy but, it you haven't i would recommend the 4 step metolius aider. It is just as long at the BD 5 step but it has sub steps. If you only use 2 aiders having the sub steps is very helpfull. I am sure many people would object to me saying this but, don't put your aiders and daisies on an oval. Buy some Petzl spirits or some kong keylocks or even some BD ones. The petzls are the best because they have the thinnest nose. This is very helpfull for removing carabiners from weighted slings or anchors. If you can find some Spirit lockers I would snatch them up as quick as you can. I don't think they have been made in 5+ years but they are the best carabiner for the end of your aider/daisy setup. Ovals are weak and hard to get in and out of wieghted pieces. Biner shift is not something that just happens, it happens when climbers stack carabiners the wrong way. Check out the kong adjustable fi-fi hook if you can find it. This is a good alternative to the metolius adjustable. Get 6mm cord for it and not 7mm like it says. Here's a link to pic of it. Its called the resting fifi.

I would totally agree, that thing is more like 11+ on lead. Even on toprope I think I got totally shut down. I scored a bunch of webbing and some biners from the top of it though.

Yo bitch who you callin a worthless sack of shit. You fuckin washed up wanabee secretery... There is no difference between the 3 places mentioned....Everyplace has hard 5.9 and 5.10 and easy 5.11 I can't really tell any difference between these places. Thats my month late opinion