Wallstein

I don't know what all the hype is about with that kid colin. He stayed in Basecamp for new years and missed the best party I have been to in a long time. What sort of climber is he? anyways heres a little p0rn for ya all cheers mike

Whatcha replace the pin for on Stiff Kitten? Grey tcus and black aliens and rps seemed to work. The pin should make it a little bit more chill though. Its to bad nobody does that one. i cleaned it 3 years ago and I don't know if it had been climbed since. Way to put some time in up there ben! I'll be back for 2 days next week. I hope i can make it out there. mikey

Ya its kinda hot down here then. toulumne is good though.

Yep I'll still be hangin until june 26, then back to WA

We wouldn't haul and climb on the hard pitches. it just to hard to climb 5.12 and haul bags at the same time. We left them a couple ropelengths below and would rap down and lower them out and jug back up.

Ya that list is missing some ascents, for sure. Its the Astroman of the next generation, absolutely incredible climbing. One of the funnest things I done in my life.

One incredible pitch.

Actually my pinky is the size of a number 4 bd and my index is the size of a 6. My fingers aren't as micro as one might think. I do have really small feet, which helped more than finger size. Most people can get a little bit of their fingers in City Park but are clueless as what to do with their feet.

Dcramer is right. I was just using City Park as a warm up to Bobcat Cringe which is a warm up for Bobcat Reality. Someday I'll venture away from the lower wall.... I really do wish I could spend the rest of the summer there but the tickets to Pakistan are purchased. Index might not have the best long routes but it sure can't be beat for super-high quality cragging. I am in Yosemite right now just dreaming of Index. I can't wait till I am home next fall. As far as the rating goes for City Park I think 13c is fair for me. It sure wasn’t any harder than that. For somebody that wasn’t a midget though I could see it getting really close to the 5.14 range. I guess we’ll just wait and see if it ever gets a non yo-yoed, non amputee, non midget ascent…I would put money on Beth to onsight it and pay to watch. The route did take me a little while to do. I probably stuck my fingers in it for the first time 8 years ago. I never really thought I was going to be able to do it until a little over a year ago. It was the end of January and I hadn’t climbed in a few months but I decided to give it a toprope burn. I amazingly got it with only one brief hang due to some wetness. I then tried to lead it the next day but that was total joke. I took one pretty big whipper and that was enough. I finally got serious about doing it this spring. I had the time and the weather seemed to be cooperating. Once again I hadn’t climbed in few months so it took a couple of weeks to get in shape. I toproped it sport style hanging on each move figuring out the best sequence. I had to due a bunch of ticking on the route which totally sucks because I am always the one bitching about ticks. I did figure they would all just wash away though. I probably worked on it for a total of 6 sessions before giving it lead attempt. I almost sent on my first attempt during a light rain storm. I was so ampted up that I just had to go for it. One small slip kept me from sending that day. After a few days rest the swelling in my fingers had resided enough to try again. I figured I wouldn’t get another chance this spring due to already being a week late for my job in Yosemite. Anxiety got the better of me on first attempt of the day but a double shot espresso and a corn dog cured that up. I just wanted to send so I could stop worrying about it and drink beer. The send was somewhat anti-climatic for me. I expected more of a fight but it didn’t happen. Oh well. A couple guys at the anchors did get a good show though. As far as pictures go I have totally whored myself out and sold my body and soul to climbing so the pictures I have probably wont be posted here. Thanks to all of the folks who gave me incredible encouragement while working on it. It really helped. Though, if it wasn’t for the radiating beauty and energy emanating from index I never would have had a shot. For a brief second I thought I was directly communicating with the rock, it was so magical, most will never understand. Oh wait that was just the

I think there will be a few people hanging around the lower wall that day. I know I'll be there.

I skied in Jackson for a while this winter and met this older lady, actually my friends grandmother. We had just come back from skiing and she saw we were wearing "one of those electronic devices," meaning transciever. She start to preach to us if we need that thing we were skiing in the wrong place. Kinda funny coming from a grandma. I later saw a picture of her flying of some 20ft cliff, I think she was a badass. I don't know about the Avabong, but it seems like a dam good idea some times.

Pete you know, to be bitchn' ya have to look bitchn' no need to get taller, just smarter. Last time I climbed El cap I did't bring a gear sling, carried everything on my harness.

Why get use to the problem when you can just fix it.

I always rack on my harness. If my rack doesn't fit on my harness I am carrying to much gear. I always found the same problem as you when I use a shoulder sling. I could never see my feet and I was constantly throwing the rack behind me. total pain. Many people will say its nicer to have a shoulder sling for multi pitch climbing due to the ease of switching leads. I generally don't end up with much gear at the belays, If i do I have plenty of time to rack it on a sling if my partner prefers that. Many people will also say its nice to use a shoulder sling on chimneys and wide cracks, this is true but in all reality rarely an issue. It takes me less than 2 minutes to re-rack onto a sling for pitches that require it.

You know what a hard life I live pete, I have to go on an all expenses paid trip to go skiing for the weekend, sometimes I wonder who I pissed off to make my life so suck. Head on over sometime and do some scrambling with me. I'll be around for a month or so.

During the last two weeks I have been scrubbing and cleaning some new and old routes on the lower town wall with a friend of mine. Due to all of this cleaning we have kind of created a mess, mainly from the top of Sloe Children on down. We have attempted to clean sloe children, city park and Godzilla after we are done everyday but have been unable to totally clean them yet. All of the above mentioned routes are clean enough to climb but don’t be surprised if you find some dirt perched on a ledge. Luckily people haven’t been climbing out there much lately, even though the weather has been incredible. If anyone is interested in helping to clean and rebolt some of the upper pitches on the lower wall let me know. Some things that still need new bolts and a scrub are p3 and p4 of Japanese Gardens, Klaus Von Bulen, Giant sized baby thing, Journey to Pitar, and the last pitch of TPMV. I can supply most of the tools and hang the rope wherever it needs to go. If you are interested in helping send me pm and we can work something out. I have to go to Alta this weekend to go skiing so I won’t be out there this weekend but I am sure I’ll be there everyday next week. Mikey

Ya well I guess my partners and I were a little more concerned about our alpine objective than the humanitarian...Hopefully the lyman spitzer will come through.

I guess this means they didn't like my app.

Just to let people know it was dry almost all day today. A few sprinkles here and there but not enough to get the rock wet.

Heart of Stone, Plastic Exploding enevitable, Mr kamps, Sorcerer's Apprentice, Magical mystery tour...

Tommy sent the whole deal in a day just a few hours ago. I watched him lead the last pitch at 11:00am or so. he started around 1:00 in the morning. He only had one rest between the last send and today. he is a mutant.

So what? do ya have like 3 quikdraws now? almost enough to go climbing by yourself...

Dam it pete, I am stuck in Salt lake city. This place sucks. I wish I was at index today. Actually anywhere but here. dammit, dammit, dammit. Do some sending for me would ya?

I'll be in Salt lake from the 28th to the 8th. I am looking to go skiing or ice climbing or . Drop me a line or give me a ring @ 253-905-7076 if interested. Mike

The last pitch is a must do. I did it with a 4 camalot. It goes in at the bottom. Its not to bad. The rock is super sharp so the friction is great. Great arm bars and locker knees. The anchors on top are new. The anchors on top of p2 could use some chain though. There is a shit load of webbing up there now. The first pitch is 12d. mostly sustained easy 11 with one show stopper move at the end. It should alway go clean, but what I see at index still always amazes me.