Wallstein

A flight to Sacramento.......$80 A bus ride to Yosemite.......$40 Beer and Pizza on the Curry pizza deck......$20 10,000 Calories in GU and Bars.....$40 A six pack of Redbull........$10 Going to Yosemite for the weekend to feed my soul on ElCap...........................................................................................................PRICELESS!! [This message has been edited by Wallstein (edited 10-22-2001).]

I did a one arm pull up ONCE. It took a lot of drinkin and a real pretty lady to get me to do it. She wasn't one to be impressed by those sorts of things though. She has soloed el cap a few times and has been to Baffin

About the thing on Asgard. I heard Cedar lead all but 4 hours of the route. Singer had a rock hit his leg just a few pitches into the route. Cedar is a freak of nature.

The new Metolius daisies are great except they do wear out rather quickly. Once the webbing gets worn out just go buy new 11/16 flat webbing and replace the old stuff. They will also slip if they get alittle twisted. I still prefer my standard oversized spectra daisies. I use an adjustable fifi which does the same job as the adj-daisies. I find it easer to bust free moves out of my aidiers and get into my grab loops.

Peter- Most places that do it will let you send in the webbing you want on there. You just have to collect all of the right colors. [This message has been edited by Wallstein (edited 10-18-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by hollyclimber: But is there like a Bible of these research results? Do I trust a spreadsheet on TradGirl.com? Who conducted the test? Was it scientific? You know what I am saying here. Maybe it is because I am an accountant, and for that work I have to be 100% sure of what my source is and the degree of authority I can give it, but I want authoritative data. When a guide spouts off data on the EDK, where are they getting it from? Tradgirl? That spreadsheet on Tradgirl.com came from Tom Moyer. He has worked for BD for years. He also works the Search and Rescue team around the area. He is authoritative. The same numbers that are printed about BD stuff comes from this guy.

ship it to the manufacturer. They will be happy to do it for you. I think a company called onsight in bc will also do it for you. Someone said wildthings will also do it. I don't any local places that do it.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Bonus: The Gift That Keep Giving There aint many gifts on that route. I stood underneath that thing last year and thought fuck no!!!! That things as burly as it gets.

1. The Nose and the Reg Route on 1/2dome in a day 2. Beligerince on Mt. Combatant 3. Anything on Shipton Spire 4. Anything on Cerro Torre 5. Slipstream 6. Moonflower Buttres 7. West face of Hunington 8. Polar Circus 9. City Park free 10. ??????

Sandbag!!!! The first move on that is probably 12+. So here's the beta. left hand in the scar above the good horizontal hold. right hand with thumb down in the shitty scar. Your right foot is on the little knob/smear out right with heal in. Then move your left foot up to the hold below the horizontal. Once your left foot is up, turn the right foot so you are outside edging. Get some stiff shoes for this. The scum your left shoulder up as high as you can get it and then high step with your left (heal in) onto the big horizontal. And there you go. Only 10 more hard moves to go. Its all about the right foot backstep. Good luck.

That would be way way sick!!!!

Matt- The route to the right of Amandala is the full Iron Horse

What exspensive gear are you talking about? There are two biners at the anchor on numbah ten. I have no idea what shut you are talking about. There are shuts on top of ten percent but that is to the left of Jap gardens.

I second that!

Great idea! Gyms are a great place to teach people to aid climb. I have taught a few clinics in the gym and they were very sucessfull. Lots of interesting scenerios can be setup to mimic a real wall route. Well except for all the pain. I taught someone in the gym and then took him up el cap for his first real aid climb. He puked from pitch 5. It was way proud. Lambone maybe you can make everyone hang in their harness from the time they get there to the time they leave. Put a little weight on their harness to so it really hurts. Or make them follow a pitch that traversed around the whole gym. And don't leave any lower out points like their partners are probably going to do. Seriously though this sounds like a good oppurtunity for those who haven't done much aid climbing.

I have used a reverso on 5 long full day (10+ pitches) rock climbs and have used it for 25 days cragging. It rocks. I have lowered a 170lb climber a full overhanging pitch with no re-rigging. All i did was pull up on the biner the rope runs through. It worked just fine with my rope (9.8 edelweiss). It would probably be more dificult with a fat stiff rope. The only problem I have found with them is giving a real smooth lead belay. I used to clip it in to my belay loop with the slack side out and the lead side towards me. I discovered that there is less friction when it is reveresed. DumbDarhma- I guess I am one of the 2% of the people that like things easier and safer. And what is so redundant about this belay device? It't the only device I take with me. When I have a choice to buy gear or go climbing I go climbing like 98% of the people on this board. Just because the device is to complicated for you and you don't like new gear don't rip on everyone else. Maybe once you are done masturbating while thinking about yourself you will look and see that no one here cares about the comp section of the rags. (well maybe lambone) [This message has been edited by Wallstein (edited 10-14-2001).]

Lambone, thanks but I already have a poofy down jacket and I don't think I really need it for where I am going. You don't have any old black prophets do you? I don't think we have met. I don't have a girl and I don't know the last time I went to index with one. I have only actually been rained on in my ledge a few times. It has almost always been snow. It rained 1 night in alaska but it wasn't bad at all. What I meant is after 10+ days on a wall route it is pretty hard to be happy in a ledge. I get real bad portaledge shoulder which keeps me from sleeping much. I have to use a lot of perscription strength cannabis and vitamin I to make the pain go away.

Using 4 aiders is slower but more comfortable. I learnt with 4 but once I got comfortable I moved on to a 3 aiders system. My third aider isn't connected to my daisies and only has 2 or 3 steps. I only use the third in akward aid and hard pitches. This method is quicker and less bulky than 4 but still just as comfortable. I also use the Russian aiders made by trango. They totally rock. They are lighter, less bulky, easier to go from free to aid and aid to free. The only problem thay have is on really steap stuff. Other than that problem I think they are superior to the regular get up. Dru is right about the kong adjustable fifi hook. It is the only way to go. I use that thing like a third hand. If you go with the standard method I would recomend the metolius aiders. They have good sub steps and are a little lighter than the bd ones. The metolius also cover the same distance in 4 steps as a 5 step bd aider. This makes you move a little quicker. Don't be scared to try something different like the Trango setup. -Mike

I have a USED TNF A5 double portaledge with the expedition fly (bright yellow)for sale or trade. The ledge and fly are both heavily used but still totally bomber. The ledge was just serviced by the North face and all stiching that was unravelling was stiched up. I have spent over 75 nights in it. Its been through winter routes on El Cap and routes in Alaska and has kept me dry and happy almost all of those nights. Used A5 ledges are more bomber than brand new ledges by Fish and Pika. I am looking to trade it for ice tools or a tent. Or sell it for $400. (it retails for over $800 w/tax). -Mike

Nuts- The ASCA does in fact does add bolts to routes. They aren't that high and almighty. Almost 20 bolts come to mind that they added to a routes in Yosemite. This is not to say that I wasn't for these new bolts but they have done it.

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: I dunno, if the piece won't come out easily for the second climber, at least you have a pretty good idea it would hold a fall. I don't think this is true. I think a piece that is hard to get out is possibly the wrong size or was placed in a bad location. Or maybe the rope has moved the piece and got it stuck. I don't think the dificulty in removing the piece says much about the reliability of the piece. Mike

Hey Matt- Just take out the nospam in the email address. It should work then. I hate junk mail and putting the nospam in the address takes care of that. Mike

Great to hear Chuck didn't get tooled! He had way more than 3 bags up on the wall. It was something like 5 bags and 5 food buckets. Last time I was down there he had fixed past the hook or book. So at the rate he is going he still has another 2 years to go. Man I freak out when I have 5 days to go. mike

Sounds like you have found the "Future" of climbing. Go get it!

You have entered a place where everthing is spray.....nothing is helpfull.... A land of fake user names ..... and huge egos ..... You have entered the VirtualCascades.... You will never make it out alive.