Wallstein

Bobcat reality..... Another 5 years and I might have a chance. Definitely one of the most insipiring lines I have seen that hasn't had a free ascent

I always use a my belay loop as recommended by the instructions. A large advantage the belay loop has over clipping directly into the leg/waistebelt is that it extendeds my device farther aways from my harness. So when stacking rope over my tie in point (while multipicth climbing) I am still able to manuver my device. Maybe a small point but definetely easier for belaying while multi pitch climbing.

Mythos and mocassyms are great for thin crack climbing with mixed face moves. But they wear out way to fast. I usually only get around 40 days of climbing on them before they blow out. Not nearly worth what they cost. I would reccommend something with a little more leather and structure. The boreal equinox is a good all around crack shoe. The leather is a little thicker than the moccs and the mythos with a little stiffer sole. Not as brick like as an ace though. Equinoxs get even better after the first resole, boreal rubber sucks for most crack climbing. I do almost all of my multi-pitch climbing in a pair of old Kaukulators. I have had them for 5 years and they are on there first sole. They have been up 5 walls and have at least 125 days of climbing on them and they are still going strong. I remember being a young sport climber and laughing at people that wore shocks in their shoes but i've made the swith to socks and have never been happier. Something that I have found to drastically lengthened the life of my climbing shoes is seam grip. I coat all of the seams and goo up the pinky toe area. On the pain...well its almost all entirely technique and balance. The only time my feet hurt when crack climbing is when I am pumped and stressing out. My technique and awareness go to shit and I start torqueing my feet way to much. Same goes for my hands, I only get gobies when I start over-jamming and stop focusing on the pressure I am applying.

I think I am going to head down to smith this weekend. See ya all there.

I've always wanted to try some of those nailups. I know this chick from yosemite that spent a bunch of time at smith a while back learning to aid climb, it sure taught her to be a "rad" aid climber. She has soloed a5 on el cap and done routes in baffin.

What I heard from my three friends, the first three guys to find him was the helicopter found the tracks. No one in the copter actually saw daniel. My buddies followed tracks around almost all day before they found him.

I have been kinda thinkin about goin down but I am not really sure right now. I was thinking about setting up a slack line to the monkey. I haven't climbed in over a month so if i were to go I would be takin it kinda easy. It would be cool to go explore some obscure multipitch routes. Ice climbin up north sounds pretty good too.

I climbed a little pitch that goes up the middle of Icicle creek buttress on Monday. Kinda thin but fun. The day before I saw some guy take a 15 footer on the far right side of icb. The screw held, so the ice must be thick enough.

I have used something very similar. I have never used the third leg as prussik backup though. Exactly what hitch would you be using? I don't see how you could actually use a prussik hitch on leg three. Maybe a bauchman. It also seems important to point out the fact that if leg 3 is to long it could possibly be pulled into the rappel device, and fail to do its job I will have to try this next time I am out.

No but it does include all of the fixed gear they have in place for the free attempt. Which is alot.

I do the same thing as retro when I won't be belaying off of the anchor and will be swopping leads. I sometimes use a self equalizing fig8 and then clove hitch a third piece with the slack side of the rope. The only problem with this method is retreating from the anchor. It would be very difficult to escape the belay and go into a counterbalance rappel.

pin- I never have a problem with the rope feeding for a leader when I coil it over my neck and lay it flat. I think we are really talking about the same method but one is supported by the palm of your and and the other is supported by the back of the neck. I drape the rope over my neck with a dog ear on each side. Not a big loop around my neck. I will coil a rope in my palm when my shoulders are tired and vice versa. I probably coiled around 1000 (no exageration) ropes last year and have found the over the neck to be the quickest method and cleanest feading. But I probably need more practice since I am so young and youth always means incopetence. Well I go back to work on friday and get to practice my rope coiling for the next 6 months while guiding in yosemite. Hopefully I will have it all figured out by then and we can have a rope coiling competition at the next cc.com bbq.

Sounds to me like a butterfly. Except coiling from one end to another. This is how i do it and most of the people I climb with. I have never heard it referred to as the FRENCH coil. Fuck the French. They're lame. Their is a way to do this coil that is probably 10 times faster than what was just explained. Coil the rope over the back of your neck, keep each hand holding onto the the end of the loop it just created. Its kinda hard to explain but does the exact same thing and not nearly as pumpy and usually creates a much neater coil.

2 guys from Washington did it. Does it really matter?

No tim its not a trick question. I have room in my van and wouldn't mind splitting the gas costs. Its back to work for me finally.

The whole route got scrubbed this winter. and all of the bolts were replaced.

Does anyone want a one way ride to Yosemte on Sunday?

I CANT AGREE MORE! Erik = A5 = sketchy

I saw VF last year. It was a great movie with lots of great footage. The best part is when John Muir is doing the first ascent of cathedral peak. Check it out, he is wearing 5.10 guide almightys!

#1 Correct the bowline does untie easier after being loaded and also comes untied when you don't want it to. #2 A fig8 can be tied so the tail faces the harness also. Pick up craig luebben book for a pic of this. #3 So is a fig8, unless you are talking about when its loaded. #4 When I untie my fig8 knot there doesn't seem to be any knot left in the rope... #5 There is a wrong way to tie any knot. #6 Using some funky knot to freak people is about as stupid as it gets. I try and not freak people out when i climb. I can think of one major disadvantage of using a bowline. Many people (lambone )don't know how to tie a bowline, especially the "sweedish bowline." I like to be able to glance at a partners harness to check that the knot was tied correctly. This is much easier to do with a figure8

I have some friends that went over to Peter Crofts house to pick him up to go climbing and he used that excuse.

I think you gotta get real stoned and drunk and then some portal opens up down by happy isles. Its a magical thing..

Baby Orca is way out of my leage! In fact it shut down the "famous" Cedar Wright. Erik snagged the first ascent of it, hence the name.

Are you looking to crag or do long routes? Craggin I would say, everything at the cookie and arch rock. There are some good warm up routes on the left side of el cap. Sacherer cracker and moby dick are good intro's. Theres good craggin off the midway ledge on the rostrum, around the 11+ range. Cascade falls also has some good craggin albeit kinda hard. Crimson Cringe is probably the best 12- in the park, mega hand jamming indurance. Tips is another good one around there, sorta contrieved start but an amazing splitter. For long routes, I would definetely say the Rostrum, amazing handjamming! Serenity to sons of yesterday is great once you get past the first shitty pitch. NE buttress (or the crucifix at 5.10 A0 or 12b) of higher Cathedral rock is also a must do. Regular route on higher cathedral Spire is also a very entertaing outing at 5.9, can you say old skewl. Theres some good bolt clippin at chapel wall, if your into that sort of thing. The great escape is classic with 3 pitches of mid 5.11, all bolted Theres also this place called swan slab.....it great!

Ah just clip them for pro and free climb past them...