mneagle

Very nice. It’s been a long time since I was up there. Beautiful terrain. We did Eldo and Inspiration on the same trip but skipped over the Needle. I’ll have to get back there sometime.

Excellent job.

Thanks for the heads up. Watched it tonight. Even when you know the ending, it's still brutal.

Very cool. I haven't lived in Washington for over 20 years and about 75% of my climbing memories and stories of PNW climbing involve long and/or suffer-fest approaches.

I remember watching it on TV in 1980 when I was 10 years old. My first exposure to climbing things other than trees. High lights I recall: Dropped backpack containing all climbing gear. Long fall traps man in rock pocket, from which he could not be retrieved until he was frozen solid. A person can pull a helicopter into a mountain with a sling rather than get pulled off the ledge.

I'm a little too busy to worry about climbing right now. I wonder if they designed the PAPR hood around the Ecrin Roc. They sure fit the same. Stay safe and practice social distancing.

Back in the day, this is the type of post that would reach classic status.

Go to the trip report section and search for TR’s from “off_the_hook” (I think his real name is Leor). He did some phenomenal link-ups in superhuman short amounts of time. Most anything he did is likely worth repeating but it might take you 4 days rather than 22 hours.

I just bumped the Nodder thread. That should make you happy.

Thanks to the Urban Dictionary, I think I might have a clue about what this thread was about. But which of the 9 definitions is the true nodder? This may require meditation https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.urbandictionary.com/define.php%3fterm=nodder&amp=true

Back in the early 2000’s, I was posting a lot because I was climbing a lot and wanted to inspire and inform others. I haven’t done much climbing over the last few years but what I have done I posted about. Coming back to cc.com now and seeing the dramatic fall in apparent traffic is a big bummer for me, as my impression is that it is due to a lack of enthusiasm from the next generation. Are the crags as empty as the forums? I’ve heard millennial are buying less activity specific gear and pursuing less adventure. If so, hopefully it is only a temporary reaction from this generation not wanting to be like their parents and climbing/adventure will be revisited in the future. For those carrying the torch here, I salute you. Few things in life are better than a bivy on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

You can get it for $12.99 but they let you watch the best scene for free, as the trailer. http://raremovies.biz/inc/sdetail/16839

We did Hannegan Pass to Easy Ridge. My partner had this great idea to skip the show mperfect impasse by taking a near vertical bushwhack route straight up to the ridge. Not recommended.

Interesting read. I guess we've all moved on a bit but wasnt the turn of the century a cool time on this site? I've been hunting and skiing here in sunny Colorado for over a decade but I've made it back to WA a couple of times, including a successful climb of Challenger in a 3 day push a couple years ago. I do miss the Cascades.

I've been to Bolivia to climb 3 times, although the last trip was over a decade ago. Here's a link to a post where I linked my last couple of trips and put up some pictures. I climbed all the peaks you mentioned and they are spectacular.we used Yossi Brain's book and even back then it was dated, with regards to snow/glacier cover. We encountered rock buttresses and scree where the book indicated snow ramps. Get the newest book but expect inaccuracies. When I was there, the ski lift was still running at Chacaltaya but I'm told the glacier is now completely gone. Back then, the climbers stayed at the Hotel Torino. I wonder if it's still there. One of the best things about climbing in Bolivia was the complete lack of regulation. Permits? Yeah right. You would catch a bus to a town close to the mountain you wanted to climb and start asking around for a mule to rent to get your shit to a base camp and then tell the guy to come back in 3 days to pick you up. Don't forget your rock shoes, so you can clip bolts in La Zona Sur, in La Paz, on a rest day. Have a great trip and put up a TR, when you get back. Bolivia link

I'm a pulmonary critical care doctor. I trained in Seattle and Salt Lake City before moving to Fort Collins, CO. In Seattle, I had a couple years of pretty adventurous alpine climbing. The drives were 3+ hours to the North Cascadrs but the adventure was epic. The skills I learned there lender themselves well to a few forays to Bolivia. The winters did get me down and finding time to climb like I did there would be nearly impossible for me, given family and career. In Salt Lake City, the quick access to hard climbing and lack of alpine pushed my rock climbing and water ice skills to a higher limit. For a brief period of time, I actually considered myself a solid 5.11 trad and water ice 5+ leader. SLC is all about access and not much else. I know I would have been sorry if I had stayed there but 30 minutes to Alta was hard to get over. Fort Collins has a strong medical community with a level 2 trauma center. It's an hour to Vedauwoo, Lumpy Ridge and Eldo. The alpine stuff in RMMP is awesome and rivals most people f the stuff I did in the Cascades (except for the lack of glaciers). I did some ice climbing for awhile but decided to dedicate my winters to skiing. Also, I discovered big game hunting, which is pretty big in the climbing scene here, as well. I've been here 11 years and have no plans to leave. If you have questions, PM me.

Love that guy. If anyone needs a doctor in Seattle... http://imwisepatient.com/meet-dr-warren-2/

Approach beta: After descending from Hannegan Pass, finding the correct spot to cross the river is key. The right spot to head towards the river is at a well trodden trail the breaks right at a spot close to the river currently marked by a large cairn we built. It looked like the FS had disassembled the cairn before us, so it might not be there. The branch is about 1/2 mile before US cabin camp, close to the river and at a spot with a rocky shore on the opposite side. There is currently a poor tree crossing about 200 feet farther down from where we crossed. Once across, the trail leaves the rocky shore from the upstream end of the shore. There is a large cairn here and the trail is large/obvious. If you make the approach without finding this trail, you will suffer severely. Good luck.

It was an incredible trip. Thanks for your psyche on this John. After mostly climbing in Colorado and Utah for the last few years, I had forgotten just how brutal the cascades can be. Note, if you accidentally climb to the 2nd summit in the fog, this is what you will see but don't worry, it's an easy traverse: [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/image258.jpg[/img]

I love that mountain. This is the wife just above the 10c pitch before the big ledge system.

I've been away for awhile too. My last post was to sell all my ice gear. Still pulling plastic in the gym 3 mornings a week but I guess this means I need to start doing some REAL climbing again. Welcome back.

Bump.

I have a set of used Metolius cams for sale. I have three in the 3-cam units (sizes oo, o and 1) and three in the 4-cam units (sizes 1, 2 and 3). They are overall in good shape. The size 1 (blue) 3-cam unit is slightly bent due to being used in a hanging belay at one point but it's pretty minimal and works fine. The action on all of the cams is good without any sticky lobes. I looked over the slings carefully and I can't find any significant damage. The black and yellow tape is just how I mark my gear. I'll peel it off before shipping. If I had any concerns about their integrity, I wouldn't be selling them, but climbing is inherently dangerous, so buy and use at your own risk. I'd like to sell them as a set for $130 plus $6 shipping anywhere in the US. I'll pay the insurance. I take Paypal and will use USPS priority mail for shipping. contact: neaglemark@hotmail.com [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/image74.jpg[/img]

I have a brand new, never used size medium BD Blizzard harness for sale. It comes with the mesh storage bag. $40 + $6 shipping I live in Fort Collins, CO but will accept Paypal and ship USPS priority mail. [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showfull.php?photo=90292[/img]