mneagle

I took a 60m rope and 1/2 a dozen nuts and had no problem. It's a long hike and an easy climb at the end, so bring as skinny of a rope as you can. We did it in Sept and had the most trouble negotiating the snow tongue below the peak, which was hard packed ice at the time. We ended up climbing along the moat. If we had brought crampons we could have just marched up the middle and saved a lot of time. We did it car to car without a bivy, which is what I would recommend.

I recommend seeing my friend Seth Schwartz at Virginia Mason. I went to residency with him. He's a very smart ear nose and throat doctor who also happens to be a super nice guy. He's also a climber. Dr. Schwartz

Here she is: We used a #4 low down, slung the chockstone and walked a #6 camalot up a ways before leaving it and then putting those last 2 pieces in at the end in the adjacent crack (small stuff). It was pretty secure stemming all the way up. Don't get suckered into trying to body jam into the crack, there's no need.

There's still a lot of snow in RMNP. I was post-holing around at 9,000 feet a few weeks ago. Eldo Canyon and Lumpy Ridge are in good shape and are recommended climbing this time of year. There is some good BLM free camping and road-side sport climbing around Buena Vista that may be OK for a kid. Some of the easier stuff at Lumpy may be OK but you would have to hike some. I live in Fort Collins, which is an hour north of Denver. If you need a partner, let me know. I may be available, depending on when you're going to be here.

I used Yossi Brain's book for Bolivia and found it to be pretty good. The only problem is that the guide is from 1999 and some of the route descriptions were off due to glacial retreat. There won't be any new editions, as Brain died in an avalanche shortly after the first puplication. Bolivia Climbing

After a few very uncomfortable experiences with wet down bags in the Cascades, I decided to go synthetic with a Mountain Hardware Ultralamina +32 bag. I am very satisfied. It's extremely compressible to a little larger than a Nerf football and weighs 2lb 2oz. I like the zipper system as it allows you to easily control temps by folding down the front in warm weather rather than trying unzip the side and bend it back. With some warm clothes I'm sure I could take it down to 15-20 degrees easily. I am not a "cold sleeper", though.

I agree with the others about living locally. Commuting around Utah is a total drag. If there's one thing Utah doesn't need it's more smog. Biking to work would justify a drive to Moab for weekend (or preferably mid-week) forays.

#1 on the Terrible Traverse of Mt. Constance in winter #2 at about 19,000 feet on Sajama in Bolivia (on our honeymoon)

Very superior

As stated above, well done population based studies have shown no link between autism and the MMR...ever...with or without thimerisol. So why are people still blaming the vaccine? I think it has to do with the history of how western medicine used to explain (and some still believe explains) autism. They blamed the mother. The classic description of autism included a "refrigerator mother" as the cause for the child's affliction. The mechanism was emotional damage to the child caused by the mother not giving the child adequate love and affection to develop properly. It only makes sense to me that we are now experiencing a backlash from mothers who are turning the tables and blaming western medicine (vaccines). Unfortunately, I believe neither is a correct explanation and both have diverted attention away from the core issue of understanding, preventing and treating autism.

I take care of an elderly lady who has suffered her whole life from chronic lung disease following an episode of measles pneumonia as a kid, before the vaccine was available. The last time I saw her I had some extra time and I asked her about what she thought about people worrying about autism from the MMR. She actually started to cry while describing what it was like to live during a time when the vaccine wasn't around and so many kids were sick and some ended up dying or having life-long illnesses like hers. She couldn't believe that anyone would be cruel enough to not vaccinate their children.

How to...

PM sent for both north wall hammers.

Temple Crag - Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a. I wish I could have lassoed the horn. After several tries we just decided to rap into the notch and climb the other side.

A guy I met in Vedauwoo last summer just sent me a link to some climbing he did in Southern India. It sounds like climbing is just getting started there and he had a chance to snap up some new lines and inspire some locals. Karnataka Climbing

Well, if you're interested in more than towers... Lone Creek Cirque has loads of fantastic granite climbing. It's also got pretty comfortable temperatures during the middle of the summer and no crowds. My favorite routes were Vertical Overhangs (linking best pitches of Vertical Smile and Triple Overhangs) and Out of the Question. Both are solid 5.10 on stellar rock. The Golden Wall was OK as well. Awesome camping in the cirque beneath towering granite walls. A stock photo below. Question Mark wall is on the right. The Summit Wall is the spire-ish feature on the left. The Golden Wall is climber's right to the Summit Wall. The San Rafael Swell has some really good stuff too. The ratio of quality climbing to crowds is the most favorable in the state and free camping to boot. I've been to the Dylan Wall several times on weekends and never saw another group of climbers. It's mostly single pitch sandstone crack climbing but there are a few multi-pitchers in the area. If you can climb Bob Can't Climb then you can climb any 5.10b in the state. Not my photo but this shows some guy on Planet Waves, one of the best 11a cracks around: Closer and easier to access from SLC is Bell's Canyon. Arm and Hammer on Middle Bell is an amazing route on awesome granite that goes at 5.10 with 2 A0 moves over a few blank sections of slab (or 11c free if you are a slab master). I recall it being about 6 pitches long. Here's a photo I found. After clearing the huge roof towards the right you then make your way up and left across the polished slab. Don't lean back to much when you reach the "Zion curtain"...it flexes uncomfortably. When it's super hot down in the valley, head up to the Hellgate Cliffs up near snowbird and check out 'Til Hell Freezes Over or go all the way up to Devil's Castle and try Black Streak. They both have some choss but still enjoyable multipitch climbs. All you need is a set of draws and a few small cams for either one. Belay on Black Streak: Hope that helps.

This would be the biggest at any rate: Link

Canyonlands: Monster Tower Moab area: all of the above but I still think Sister Superior is the finest of the bunch (haven't done Honeymoon Chimney, though) Sister Superior 10c:

I went to Belize in November which was at the end of the wet season. September would likely see daily rain showers. There are, however, some really affordable and beautiful resorts that would be great for a honeymoon. In the Pine Ridge Area, there is the Five Sisters Lodge, which is a really beautiful place overlooking a waterfall. There are some excursions to Mayan ruins and some modest hiking. We also stayed at the Lamanai Outpost Lodge. This involves a 30 mile boat ride to get to. It is much more expensive but it was in an incredible jungle setting with easy access to some really cool Mayan ruins and nice boating. Check out the websites below. Lamanai Outpost Lodge Five Sisters Lodge I hiked the Inca Trail from the "kilometer 88" starting point back when you didn't need a guide. The first day involved a lot of elevation gain. There are other starting points that are easier hikes but if she is in good shape, the 4 day from km 88 is the best choice. Keep in mind that you would be there during a transitional month and expect some rain. If you are looking for a relaxing time with non-commiting hiking and some cultural excursions, I'd go with Belize. If you are looking for a more adventurous honeymoon, then I'd go with Peru.

I just poached this from RC.COM. I wish I could go, it sounds awesome. Jeff Lowe and OGDEN CLIMBING PARKS announce Cassar Jewelers ClimbFest - Ogden, Utah 2008 A Celebration of Mountain Adventure Art, Literature & Environment. Exhibits from April 3-17 Main Events April 18 & 19 We are hosting a Literary & Arts Festival where attendees can get up close and personal with climbers, authors and artists. Call for art, literature and photo submissions. There will be cash and product awards for literature, art and photography. Please see our website for more information: www.ogdenclimbingparks.com or call us at; (801) 392-9181 An example of some of the featured presentations: Dick Dorworth will be reading segments from his latest book “Night Driving.” There will be celebration of the 30th Anniversary of Pat Ament’s “Master of Rock,” a biography of pioneer boulderer John Gill. Ogden Climbing Parks instructional staff will be running a clinic for the public to teach the basics of bouldering. We will have a cocktail hour at the Grand Ballroom of the Union Station where the winning art will be on display and available for purchase (if not already sold). Books will also be available for purchase. There will also be a silent auction. Dan Schroeder, Chairman of the Ogden Sierra Club will present an idea to preserve open space by securing designated wilderness for the mountains east of Ogden. John Bachar, one of the world’s greatest free climbers will present a slideshow. Get more information and tickets at: www.ogdenclimbingparks.com (801) 392-9181 anastasia@ogdenclimbingparks.com

Deseret News Article I had heard a few years ago that he had some health problems and had quit climbing but I didn't know that is was due to multiple sclerosis. Very sad.

Ken continues to climb hard as an orthopedic surgeon in Fort Collins. He still styles up 5.12 with skills only matched by his modesty. Congratulation on your acceptance. I remember getting the big envelope myself and whooping at the top of my lungs in my apartment stairwell. (For those that don't know, the "Wait Listed" letters always come in regular sized envolopes that really spoil your day.) You're about to enter into one really protracted epic. There will be fun, there will be pain and in the end you're going to have a hell of a story to tell. As for leaving the cc crowd, forget about it. Since leaving Seattle in 2002 I've spent 3 years in Salt Lake City and 3 years in Fort Collins, CO but rarely does a day go by without checking in on cc.com. I just can't get into mountainproject.com. It doesn't help that most of my major climbing objectives are still in the North Cascades. Damn those beautiful mountains.

A -15 synthetic bag doesn't make a lot of sense to me. A synthetic bag that will go that cold will be bulky as all hell and take up most of your alpine pack. Also, if it's that cold it isn't going to be raining, so why buy a synthetic bag? For both of the above reasons I would recommend a down bag for temps that cold. If you're looking for a 3 season bag for the cascades then a bag to 15-20 degrees is usually fine. A synthetic bag works well for these temps, as you're more likely to get rained on and they are still able to be stuffed to a reasonable degree. I recently bought a Mountain Hardwear Ultralamina 35 but they make one for 15 degrees too: Ultralamina 15 I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it has gotten rave reviews and seems very solid and comfortable on my living room floor.

I lived in Sugarhouse until 2005 and thought it was OK. It's probably the best area as far as vicinity to the stuff you are looking for goes. You could probably find some cheap housing close to the University of Utah as well. The Front is a bouldering gym not far from Sugarhouse where you could easily hook up with climbers. It's a pretty friendly bunch. The other gym is Rockreation, which is down by Black Diamond. A bit of an older crowd and a little more elitist (by some accounts). I never met Brittany, but some of the Blurr-Team babes climb at the Front. B-Team If you are into bouldering, it's year round in Utah. Try to get out to Ibex if the temps are good. If you want to ice climb, here's a link to the conditions: Utah Ice Conditions Did I mention that it was 25 minutes from my doorstep to the lift line at Alta? Don't forget the skis. If you are a brewmeister, be sure to stop by the Beer Nut. Despite the access to the outdoors, I still found their slogan appropriate: Helping you survive Utah! One other thing, if the inversion is in full gear, be sure to bring a gas mask. On a light day... On a day when kids aren't allowed to go out for recess...

This was as close as we got to the ridge: I've heard from others that it is a lot of loose, moderate climbing in a stellar position. Route finding on the North Face was a little tricky but not too bad. We used McLane's Alpine Select mostly and found the topo and description to be pretty good. Getting to the two 5.9 pitches up high was a little confusing. This is a close up on the route with an arrow pointing to the super chossy ramp that wasn't very well described in the book. Traverse around on a ledge to get to it and then tip-toe over loose rock for a full pitch and belay as high as you can in the high right hand corner. Then head out right around the blind corner and straight up to a larger sloping ledge (short pitch) with the next 5.9 pitch in front of you and slightly to the left. (see photo of 5.9 pitch above)