goatboy

Hey all, We're planning on attempting the Ptarmigan (from N to South) the last week of May/First week of June, taking about 8 days (to climb things along the way). I am an intermediate skier -- but maybe more like "beginner" with the big pack on my back. Wife is the same. Any thoughts on 1) skiing versus walking at this time of year, and 2) what weather/conditions might be like in May-June for such a long traverse, given this year's unusually light snowpack??? Thanks!

Hi, For some reason, I can't find info regarding the altitude of the TJ Hut. Also curious how long it takes to get there, given current snow and road conditions. I read some recent posts, but didn't find precise answers to these two questions. Thanks in advance for any info. - GB

Yeah, I did some similar "run out" simulclimbing on Triple Couloirs for awhile before establish a good belay (piton, Camalot, and ice tool all equalized with a cordellette.) I was "vibracious" during the simulclimbing but felt very happy with the integrity of the anchor itself, once I got there. Exciting stuff -- not ideal, but hey, you do the best you can in the situation that you're in.

Cool photo, but I call BS - the thread and the question as I interpret it has to do with a running belay (simul-climbing) situation, and the photo you sent (though excitingly run-out) seems to be a belayed pitch, with a potentially different set of results should one of the followers fall . . . . am I accurate about that? Where is the photo taken??? Looks magnificent.

Check out this image of Gaston Rebuffat kicking ass in leather boots and hemp rope, in the alps, back in the day....

I climbed it in April last year, and it looked like this: How did it compare this year, snow-cover and conditions-wise? Thanks!

My vote: Clearly Alex Lowe. He was (famously) quoted as saying, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Based on that, he must have had a whole lot of fun, because he put up cutting edge ice routes, free climbed into 5.13, was an outstanding high-altitude alpinist in the great ranges of the world, and also was a strong aid climber, pioneering many first ascents and completing great traverses (like the Teton Traverse) in record time. Certainly there are many other great climbers who are specialists but I would contend that Lowe was one of the best all-around climbers ever. Discuss!

Dumb. Just plain dumb

What's the story with the accident? Is there a separate post about this? Thanks.

Pretty sure different Nat'l Forests have different management plans and policies for this, especially so close to a metropolitan area like Bend . . . .

There's an easier route on NEWS, which is commonly used as the rappel route . . . .

4 attempts on S Face Prussik. 1st - partners wimped out on sight of the peak 2nd - rain 3rd - rain 4th - lightning on 4th pitch -- rappelled off Not sure if I'll try again or not! My wife has attempted to climb Forbidden Peak I think 3 times, and gotten sick, been weathered off, or failed to get the requisite permit and changed plans.

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Any more recent info regarding approach, conditions, etc? THANKS! Nice, succinct TR with nice photos.

Hmm . . . Not sure I agree with that . . . . guess it depends on how you do it, but I climbed right where the climber is pictured, all three times I've been on the W Ridge. Reckon it depends on how you define "normal route." Anyway, staying right on or near the ridge crest was more exposed and more exciting for me. Nice work on sending it car to car in march!

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Thanks, I'm home now and will consult my WA Ice book, which is excellent, by the way. . . cheers.

Sure, usually that would be the case. It depends on the outcomes of the activity. If the goal is to foster the utmost safety, guide uphill, positioned to stop a fall, is clearly best. If the goal is to teach leadership or practicing team arrest, a student or client could be uphill. If the descent warrants placing protection on the way down, such as pickets, then the guide would be first or in the middle of the rope team to place gear as they descend. So, to me, it's really situational. In the incident described in the article, it could have well been a situation where placing protection could have assisted the team in arresting the fall . . . . Always a judgment call, complicated by many factors....

Having heard different versions, what are the Three Rules of Mtn Guiding? Also, where does the figure of 214 people come from? I assume this is number of fatalities on Aoraki (Mt Cook), but what's the source?

Yeah, sad for sure. I don't remember the "guide knot" reference -- can you elaborate?

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Sorry, I don't have a Vantage guidebook handy -- is this the big falls visible from the Sunshine Wall (upvalley) or elsewhere? How long is the approach? Thanks for any info!

Just spoke with ranger who was unable to offer definitive information. I will go check it out and post update when I get back.