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Everything posted by goatboy
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Thanks -- I tried to include some helpful info in case someone wants to go get it -- though I hear there are some pretty good steps kicked in the SGC right now!!!! Sorry the photos are so large . . . .
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[TR] Mt. Stuart- Stuart Glacier Couloir - Gang Bang Recap 5/7/2005
goatboy replied to DonnV's topic in Alpine Lakes
And here's a shot of the clouds in which they were enshrouded . . . . . -
[TR] Mt. Stuart- Stuart Glacier Couloir - Gang Bang Recap 5/7/2005
goatboy replied to DonnV's topic in Alpine Lakes
Here's a shot from camp of Donn V and his gang descending . . . . . Nice work, guys!!! Two folks above bergscrund near top, two lower down above ice .... -
Anyone ever climb "Goat Sick" near bathtub dome???
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Climb: Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 5/7/2005 Trip Report: Brief (tired!) version of TR here. More details and more photos to follow soon... Climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier in very good conditions yesterday. Great neve on most of route, with a short section of ice around the ice cliff (go figure!). Overview of route from approach trail: Ice Cliff -- we followed ramps and bulges on the left side: Absolutely great route, with low objective hazard (relatively speaking) this time of year -- lots of avalanche debris at bottom of route, but barely anything coming down on us en route -- snowpack and cornices above seemed pretty stable. My partner: We opted against the summit, given the whiteout and driving wind when we topped out at the col -- took a sharp right and headed down the Sherpa, following a good bootpack to find the proper descent col.... Sherpa Glacier descent very reasonable right now, with a few large crevasse or bergschrund crossings with either good bridges or easily bypassed to climber's right. Able to safely glissade a lot of the descent, after the initial 1500 feet of 40-degree neve...There is one large ice cliffband below which warrants caution (stay to skiers left) on descent there ... Did the route in 6 hours, the descent (and some rests) took another 2.5 -- back to camp in time for some tea and soup before slogging out to the car (and a few beers) in Leavenworth. Approach took us about 5 hours. Hike out took about 4. Saw another party of 4 who climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir, reporting good conditions there as well . . . . That's the Trip Report for now. Go get it!! Great route in stellar alpine environment. Views of the Complete North Ridge are inspirational... Gear Notes: Two Tools Two Pickets 5 Slings (didn't use) 5 ice screws (didn't use) Rock pro (didn't use) 30 meter rope Approach Notes: Mostly good snow or dry ground . . .. Some post holing, punching through to crotch at times Otherwise reasonable -- good bootpack to follow. Snowshoes would not be very helpful due to intermittent nature of snow....not worth the weight!
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Thanks so much for the detailed advice and beta, Alex. I believe I met you once climbing "Canary" on Castle Rock, years ago . . . . Our thought on the 8-days was to layover a few times along the way and climb a few peaks as we go -- and also plan in some weather days -- you're absolutely right, our goal is not to blaze through, but to really get up into that magnificent high country and STAY THERE, away from work and bills and other aspects of life. Anyway, I really appreciate the info. Later, Goatboy
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RJB, Did you come up the Cascadian? What were conditions like on it?
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Hey all, We're planning on attempting the Ptarmigan (from N to South) the last week of May/First week of June, taking about 8 days (to climb things along the way). I am an intermediate skier -- but maybe more like "beginner" with the big pack on my back. Wife is the same. Any thoughts on 1) skiing versus walking at this time of year, and 2) what weather/conditions might be like in May-June for such a long traverse, given this year's unusually light snowpack??? Thanks!
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Hi, For some reason, I can't find info regarding the altitude of the TJ Hut. Also curious how long it takes to get there, given current snow and road conditions. I read some recent posts, but didn't find precise answers to these two questions. Thanks in advance for any info. - GB
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Yeah, I did some similar "run out" simulclimbing on Triple Couloirs for awhile before establish a good belay (piton, Camalot, and ice tool all equalized with a cordellette.) I was "vibracious" during the simulclimbing but felt very happy with the integrity of the anchor itself, once I got there. Exciting stuff -- not ideal, but hey, you do the best you can in the situation that you're in.
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Cool photo, but I call BS - the thread and the question as I interpret it has to do with a running belay (simul-climbing) situation, and the photo you sent (though excitingly run-out) seems to be a belayed pitch, with a potentially different set of results should one of the followers fall . . . . am I accurate about that? Where is the photo taken??? Looks magnificent.
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Check out this image of Gaston Rebuffat kicking ass in leather boots and hemp rope, in the alps, back in the day....
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[TR] Colchuck Peak- North Buttress Couloir 4/9/2005
goatboy replied to mughjie's topic in Alpine Lakes
I climbed it in April last year, and it looked like this: How did it compare this year, snow-cover and conditions-wise? Thanks! -
My vote: Clearly Alex Lowe. He was (famously) quoted as saying, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Based on that, he must have had a whole lot of fun, because he put up cutting edge ice routes, free climbed into 5.13, was an outstanding high-altitude alpinist in the great ranges of the world, and also was a strong aid climber, pioneering many first ascents and completing great traverses (like the Teton Traverse) in record time. Certainly there are many other great climbers who are specialists but I would contend that Lowe was one of the best all-around climbers ever. Discuss!
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What's the story with the accident? Is there a separate post about this? Thanks.
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Pretty sure different Nat'l Forests have different management plans and policies for this, especially so close to a metropolitan area like Bend . . . .
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There's an easier route on NEWS, which is commonly used as the rappel route . . . .
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4 attempts on S Face Prussik. 1st - partners wimped out on sight of the peak 2nd - rain 3rd - rain 4th - lightning on 4th pitch -- rappelled off Not sure if I'll try again or not! My wife has attempted to climb Forbidden Peak I think 3 times, and gotten sick, been weathered off, or failed to get the requisite permit and changed plans.
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LATEST NEWS
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SOLD! to the highest bidder. Thanks for the beer, NOLSe. Good to meet you. Thanks to everyone who inquired -- NOLSe beat you to it, though!
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I have a large box of old climbing magazines (Climbing, Rock and Ice, and others) dating back many years. There are probably about 75-100 magazines. I will give them to the first bidder in return for a case of Pabst Blue Ribbon (24 high quality, award winning beers) or 12 Bridgeport India Pale Ales. PM me or reply here if interested.
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Any more recent info regarding approach, conditions, etc? THANKS! Nice, succinct TR with nice photos.