goatboy

Blair Witch?

For me, there are two cruxes: 1) When you throw the ropes down and rap, you can send loose blocks down onto your ropes below, neatly core-shotting them all to heck (done it myself, like a dummy, once) 2) Pulling the ropes after you rappel (as Dru mentioned) So, coiling the ropes on you and paying out as you go prevents the first scenario. I go with the butterfly coils and a single runner holding them together, with the "feeding end" closest to the belay device, and the tail end furthest away. Feeds pretty well, mostly painless.

Possibly a tangent, possibly relevant: National Forests can charge people who accidently start forest fires, and I know negligent people in Nat'l Parks have been charged fees for their rescue -- how does that relate to this topic overall, in your minds?

Yeah, sounds like the Methow Inspiration Route to me . . . . Thanks for the report, nice job on NEWS. I think the undercling/flake pitch is the real crux of the route -- the wide crack pitch looks a lot harder than it turns out to be...

Cave route is fun -- the first pitch (as described) has its moments, but the pitch coming OUT of the cave and up to the small perch-like summit is very memorable and unique. The view of Lib Bell from there is great, and will illuminate other routes, such as Rapple Grapple. My list (not in any order): 1) SW Buttress SEWS, descend S Arete 2) Beckey Route (if not crowded) 3) Rapple Grapple (if Beckey is crowded) 4) NF Lexington is short, but okay and has a fun 5.7 layback pitch -- only worth doing as part of a larger program (i.e. last climb of the day sort of thing) 5) I enjoyed what I did of the N Ridge Cutthroat -- the S Buttress of Cutthroat was loose and "flawed" as Nelson puts it. I wouldn't recommend it. 6) Kangaroo Temple has a nice 5.7 route 7) North Face of Burgundy (tricky routefinding, but good route) 8) Nearby (but not at WA PASS) Black Peak has an enjoyable, though loose at time, NE Ridge route at 5.8 or so Good routes, but harder than 5.8 include: 1) NW Corner NEWS 2) Direct E Buttress, SEWS

is "Methow Buttress" the same as the Methow Inspiration Route?

"Standard" must be defined differently in different places. I would never carry a #4 into the mountains unless I saw clear evidence that I need it -- and then, still maybe not! I rarely leave home without a couple #2's, however . . . in hopes I can handjam, I guess . . . .

Just a question on this point: What about the helicopters involved? I know that they're very expensive to fly... I do think that writing a response letter is the best way to get the message out to the audience of that newspaper at least...

Thanks -- there's a thread already started on this incident, HERE

Probably make camp near Temple Ridge and climb multiple peaks (not just Prussik!) Perhaps go over to the Mole and Duolith too? Always been drawn to the Flagpole as well . . . . Note: I have not personally done any of the above, that's why I'm interested in them . . . . so I'm not RECOMMENDING them, just answering your question. Good luck! - GB

Terrible news. Here's a link from USA Today, essentially the same info: ARTICLE

Outward Bound website Runs programs in Oregon

Thanks for the great photos!

Apparently, it opens on Sunday the 10th, according to another thread.

Yeah, I drank three of those beers that afternoon -- would that proivde the same mechanical advantage as a 3:1??? I have no idea what's in the background -- this photo is from a cabin we were slumming in while visiting friends in New Zealand . . . .

See larger image HERE Here's a shot of us practicing in the backyard, focusing on the systems (as mentioned above) rather than trying to teach complicated concepts in a challeging learning environment. From here, once concepts are established, it's best to crystallize that learning by practicing in a real-life setting (i.e. on a glacier). Fun stuff!

Just got a D70 (good deals right now from B and H Photo online -- D70, Nikon 18-70Zoom lens, 1 GB CF Card, for $1039 after $100 rebate). So far, I love the thing. Will let you know if there are any problems.

Hi Chris, If you're comfortably , you can do most (or all) of the route that way. Take a small rock of stoppers, cams to #3 camalot, and ten long slings Two ropes help with the rappels back down the W Ridge Couloir, if you go that way Descending the W Ridge can take as long as climbing up it, for many parties. I recommend staying RIGHT ON THE RIDGE CREST rather than the N Side Traverse options around difficulties -- no harder than 5.6, and some fixed pro (like pitons) where you need them. Have fun! Post pictures! Get an early start so you can enjoy the route and not feel rushed. Camping at the higher campsite (just below the S Face of Forbidden) is best!

I enjoyed the Climbing Notes on the NCNP's website, HERE

I have heard this route described as being 45-50 degrees steep; is that the case?

Cascade Alpine Guide, Fred Beckey. "Peak ____________, 6423 ft. Follow obvious ledges and crack systems, 4th class. Brushy and loose. Bring hardhart. FA: Fred Beckey. Descent: No information available."

Climb: Tattoosh Range-Unicorn to Castle Traverse Date of Climb: 7/3/2005 Trip Report: Tamara and I thought we'd go somewhere new for the holiday weekend, and as I'm recovering from an injury we were looking more for a long hike than a technical ascent. I have long been interested in checking out the Tattoosh Range, and with the combination of weather, weekend crowds, and our available time, it sounded like the right thing to do . . . so off we went. Approaching Rainier from afar is always breathtaking . . . the first glimpse of the mountain makes it seem impossibly huge: After camping Saturday night, we awoke Sunday morning and found brilliant, crisp blue skies at Reflection Lake: Hiking up from the Bench Lake Trail, we passed lovely wildflowers enroute to Snow Lake, where the elevation gain began, mostly on talus: Soon, Unicorn Peak and its broad access gully (mercifully, mostly snow) swung into view (pictured here, as seen from Castle Peak): The snow gully was in perfect step kicking condition, and before we knew it we were standing at the base of the Unicorn's summit tower (not quite as tall as Nelson's guidebook makes it sound -- more like 50 feet, I'd guess -- but still fun at 5.6!) Tamara made short work of the pitch and I followed: After chatting with another party, we decided to do the traverse over to Castle Peak and descend the maintained trail back to Reflection Lake. Here's Castle and Pinnacle: Tamara atop Castle: Driving home today, we stopped at Banner Falls near Mt St Helens: All in all, a highly recommended high traverse and a fun rock scramble -- lovely area with great views of Rainier, especially fun with my favority alpine partner!

Heard a radio report of a fellow who suffered an apparent heart attack on Rainier a few days ago . . . any updates on the rescue effort or outcome? Best wishes to all involved . . .

Hooooooo-AHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

Great TR, wonderful photos . . . but that THIRD photo (with the pink alpenglow) just makes me feel all woozy. Please excuse me, as I now have to go weep. Great job! Thanks for the TR.