goatboy

Thanks for the TR. I agree with everything you say, but would still recommend the route for the exposure, the interesting knife-edge section(s), the awesome scenery, and the straightforward descent. If you rap the South Face, you can then climb the S Face, doubling your climbing! It's worth doing at least once . . . .

Where exactly is it located in NH? I drive by there all the time and crane my neck out the window as I pass -- I assume it's on the steep mossy walls on the North Side of hwy 20, visible from "downtown" Newhalem?

Hey Erez, My experience with the large fixed cam (a #4, I believe) is that it is useful to "french free" off of but has no remaining sling to clip into as pro -- so you'd have to finagle something to clip into it, or sling it as if it were a chockstone -- which is pretty funky, given the position and the location and the situation. I suggest a 3.5 camalot or two for the offwidth.

I agree that DUI is a serious offense and should not taken lightly -- but this link (and this thread) has nothing to do with getting around customs -- it actually has to do with acknowledging your crime and seeking official pardon (or "rehabilitiation") for it. Seems to me that that's very different from skirting customs -- it's working WITH customs officials. Do you agree with that distinction?

Car to car from South Side (Teanaway), Upper N Ridge only (with Gendarme), Descend Cascadian, 19 and a half hours for me and my partner in October of 2002. certainly no record but Christ, still felt like a good, long day to me!

I'm trying to imagine how a chopper could land ON the N Ridge of Forbidden . . . am I off base or is that very unlikely???

Kearney clearly has my vote. The criteria mentioned by Oregon AAC include pioneering spirit, style, LNT, and something about "mongo see mountain, mongo climb mountain." Like Fred, Kearney is a noted NW local and pioneering mountaineer. He has done mnay first ascents in the range, and continues to do so. Like Fred, Alan is a guidebook author. Like Fred, Alan is a strong (some would say stronger) proponent of LNT and wilderness ethics. His slideshows and guidebook illustrates this point. Like Fred, Alan "sees mountain, climbs mountain." He has also pioneered routes and exploration in Patagonia, the Coast Range, Alaska, and other places. I appreciate the contributions of the other folks mentioned, and believe they should possibly receive this award another year -- but none of them deserve receiving it BEFORE Kearney does. Thanks for the opportunity to share my thoughts. GB

hey mvs, long time no see. Sounds like you must have encountered a few friends of mine as you came down off of the Johannesberg weed-wack outing. I climbed Buckner NF 2 summers ago and we found some very nice alpine ice -- about 60 meters worth -- at the top of the face. It would take screws nicely, though the angle and conditions were such that we simply soloed it. We also bypassed the schrund on the North Face via the rock rib traverse to moderate snow on the left (East) side, regaining the NF proper abover the schrund. My two friends (the same two you met) tried to climb the NF couloir yesterday and encountered schrund problems that they were unable to surpass. They stated that the NF looked good, however.

Lambone, I shot 100 slides, but alas, no digital. Will try to scan some slides once they get developed. klenke, I was HOPING to see some snow on the ridge (as pictured in Nelson's guidebook) but it was long since gone. There is a lovely bivy site on the ridge about 1 pitch up, but it would be dumb to stay there this time of year (no snow for water). It would be glorious if you were more of a man than me, and willing to carry all your gear up there. Have a blast!

At the risk of sounding like someone who lives in the mountains and is clueless, What happened on 7/16?

Climb: Triumph-NE Ridge Date of Climb: 7/22/2004 Trip Report: I am tired. Wednesday, Joe and I hiked up to the nunatak camp on the Triumph Glacier in about 5 hours of uphill fun with some token downhill sections (drop down about 500 feet to get the Thornton Lake, then drop down a few hundred from the little notch to get to the nunatak campsite). Black beans and cheese for dinner, yum. Thursday morning: 5 AM wakeup 6:15 On the glacier heading for the ridge We took grassy ramps from the glacier to the ridge crest, avoiding any of the "hard to protect mid-fifth class climbing" mentioned in Nelson's guide. 7:15 We started off soloing the route, with the intention of roping up if necessary. The Skagit Gneiss on this route was un-believably pleasant to climb on, solid rock with lots of incut edges and handholds right where you need them. What a pleasure to move freely over so much terrain, and feel so secure. The exposure was unrelenting, especially off to the climber's left, the overhanging East Face, which drops straight down to the crevasses far, far below. We ended up at the 5.7 crack, eventually, and roped up for that. I never placed anything bigger than a blue tri-cam, so no #3 camalot needed (all we had was 4 stoppers and 3 tri-cams anyway). Moving through the steep heather at the top was fine, but would be DESPERATE in wet conditions, as the ledges are all sloping down into the exposed East Face. We summitted at 9:50. The descent was straightforward, though rappelling (8 times) and soloing down took longer than the ascent did. 3:30 Packed up camp and slogged all the way back to the car at the trailhead. Note: We used bikes on the 2 miles of flat trail (an old road) out of the parking lot, which I have since learned is illegal -- but it sure did speed things up!!!! I was back home in Mazama by 9:30 PM. Summary: An absolutely extraordinary climb, with spectacular views (of the Pickets, Mt Baker, Eldorado, and on and on) and incredibly aesthetic rock to climb on. The approach is longer and harder than it appears to be, and I could have happily made this a 3 day trip rather than a "climb it and de-proach" the same day. Having said that, I'm glad we did it in a two-day push. I am so glad I made the effort to get up there and climb it. Gear Notes: Crampons useful for glacier. Ice ax for a few steep sections 1 60 M rope adequate to descend NE Ridge. Very light rack

Thanks, glad you liked them! I just uploaded a few more photos: Big air and gendarme! Simulclimbing to the summit, past the last of the difficulties: Looking down the NE Face (rappels take you to the grassy ledges and rock ramps which comprise the traversing descent)

Climb: Forbidden-East Ridge Direct Date of Climb: 7/14/2004 Trip Report: Samantha "Little Wing" Goff and I set out for Marblemount mid-week to nab a permit for Boston Basin. In the past, I've made two attempts on Forbidden E Ridge and been shut down (first time by rain and whiteout, second time by inability to get a permit due to overcrowding). As we drove West from Mazama, the rain began to fall around Rainy Pass. We were undaunted, and soon the weather cleared. Arriving in Marblemount, we were dismayed to find that the Basin was full of guided parties (over 25 people registered for that night). Bummer. We contemplated fleeing back East, but then resolved to do a non-traditional climb, starting from the Cascade River Road. We drove to the road closure at Eldorado Creek and started biking up the road, soon arriving at the Boston Basin pullout. We camped nearby, and enjoyed a few Rainier beers chilled in the raging creek above our camp: 2 AM: Woke up and drank coffee, ate mashed potatoes with cheese and hot sauce 3:15 Left camp by headlamp 6:00 arrived Boston Basin 8:30 arrived at Gendarme marking start of E Ridge Route We roped up and siimulclimbed, mostly staying on the ridge crest and drinking in the spectacular views and "unrelenting exposure" that Nelson mentions in his guidebook. At times, the route would veer off the ridge crest, as shown here, traversing above the NE Face on steep, solid rock: As we climbed higher, the views continued to improve: (Note Samantha revelling in the shadows in the lower right hand corner) We had an opportunity to get vibracious climbing the 5.8 gendarme, which was surprisingly steep for the rating, but enjoyable and well protected: Soon, we were on eay terrain again and speeding toward the summit. We topped out around noon and enjoyed some food and water before turning our attention to the NE Face descent. I found it to be pretty straightforward, if a bit loose and wandering. The key to this descent, for me, was simply micro-navigating and linking together lots of easy grassy ramps and ledges -- essentially zigzagging up and down as you traverse rather than trying to go straight across. We were back at the gendarme where we started at 3 PM, twelve hours after leaving the campsite at the trailhead. At this point, fatigue started to set in a bit and we definitely took our time getting back down. Having bikes stashed helped a lot, and we were back at the car around 8 PM I believe. It was a great climb in a fabulous location. I definitely recommend it, though I must admit that I liked the West Ridge better. If you've done the W Ridge before, then the E Ridge provides an enjoyable, more challenging, less crowded alternative with a convenient descent back to boots and ice ax. Thanks to Little Wing for a great day in the Cascades. Gear Notes: Stoppers 6 Cams (up to #2 camalot) 12 slings Ice Ax No Crampons needed Approach Notes: Road is now OPEN again. Trail is snow free. Boston Basin melting out quickly. Not too much snow left down low, lots of running water and high water levels at creek crossings!!!! "I been vibracious for YEARS....."

Scariest Whipper: Climbing at nameless roadside crag in Idaho -- Came unclipped (due to me adjusting my daisy chain carelessly) at hanging belay and CASTED OFF, freefalling about 6 or 8 feet until stopping, almost miraculously, on a body-sized ledge -- he only horizontal feature between me and a 100 foot fall to the ground.

Great add'l photos, Aaron. Yeah, regarding the picket or no picket question on a climb lik this where you are on rock for the vast majority, but there IS some steep, exposed snow -- how about taking just one simple deadman (fluke)? It's more compact than a picket, lighter, and easy to place in soft snow . . . but almost useless in hard snow.... Just a thought. I think if I were to do it again I'd just take one fluke, two tools, and a 60 Meter 8.5 mm rope, and a very small rack of rock gear with lots of slings for simulclimbing.

Great pictures of a great place. Good beta on conditions too. We also ended up rapping over the schrund, it was GNARLY in July of 2003. Two tools were nice for the steep snow, I thought. Crampons not needed when we did it, though if it froze hard the night before . . . . Great work, Donn! GB

Great report and inspirational photos. I climbed the "lesser route" mentioned (that has since been skied) and would agree that it was both classic and ass-kicking. I believe I lost about 10 pounds on the trip. Thanks for the trip report!

NBC is interesting because you climb the couloir for awhile before shifting gears and traversing out onto the NW Face for the finish . . . It is a good climb because it is sustained at the "rating" -- moderate the whole way, in other words. There's definitely exposure involved, but depending on conditions, it's very reasonable and secure, I would say. Curious what other people think of the route?

Curious if you can drive all the way to the end of the road for the Easton Glacier (via Schreiber's Meadows) approach? Any beta on how snowy or snow-free that approach is right now? thanks

No problem at all!

Here's a picture of Serpentine and Backbone from that same day Also, a shot of us high on the NW Face (near the top of the route)

Climb: Colchuck-North Buttress Couloir Date of Climb: 5/15/2004 Trip Report: I have little to add to other trip reports other than my photos. This is a great, moderate route, made even better by the views and the exposure that one encounters in places. Kat and I left the trailhead at 4 AM and chased our headlamp beams over the little bridges and windy turns of the lower Stuart Lake trail, which was dry. Soon, it was light enough to see and we were past the bridge at Mountaineer Creek, where we began to encounter the first sustained bits of snow. To our pleasant surprise, it was firm snow, great for fast travel. 6:30 saw us at the lake. Here we encountered a soloist (Alasdair?) who went on up the moraine ahead of us while we ate some meat and bread. The couloir looked continuous and fun: It was mostly firm snow, with some patches of less consolidated in places. The couloir is about 40-45 degrees for the great majority, I would say -- perfect for two-tool dagger climbing and crampons. Kat used one tool most of the day, however, while I enjoyed the use of two. We descended the Colchuck Glacier, which had softened up enough to afford great plunge steps. I really recommend this route. We carried a rope and pickets and some rock pro and honestly didn't use or need any of it -- the conditions were very secure and straightforward, though fun! There was some minor rockfall that took place while we were in the couloir, so there's a potential argument against soloing, I suppose. But on the other hand, one can move faster unroped, often, which minimizes your time of exposure to rockfall ... anyway, there you have it. Gear Notes: No need for snowshoes due to early start. Some folks were in running shoes. Two tools and crampons were nice Rope optional, pickets would have worked nicely in firm snow. Rock gear seemed to be available for much of the route, should one want it. Approach Notes: See report

Have any of you climbed this route? I am curious what you thought of it. I will tell my story about it after I've heard a few responses. Thanks.

Thanks! It was a lovely day: Kangaroo Ridge from SEWS Summit: