goatboy

Hard to tell where it tops out, but that photo doesn't make it look very long, really . . . . that's encouraging!!!

True, True . . . But once you get up there, you want to STAY up there for the sunset, alpenglow, views, etc . . . . Hauling stuff up (and especially down!) that steep trail is a pain, thought, I agree...

Christ! Guess I better quit typing and start climbing for a change!

I know that last September was a stellar month in the Bugaboos, with some first ascents going up and clear blue skies -- but I also know that's VERY UNUSUAL.

Hey y'all, When I saw this thread pop up, and saw that I had initiated, I was perplexed, as I had no memory of doing so....identity theft, perhaps? Then I realized it's from 2004. Anyway, thanks for all the great beta on Backbone, which I STILL haven't climbed. I did climb Serpentine Ridge that year, however, and really enjoyed the position, the exposure on the pitches by the pillar, and the hugeness of that particular mountain. I would certainly recommend doing it once. It was not as loose as I had been lead to believe, and there were a few excellent pitches right off the ledge with the big pillar. Most of it is scrambly/easy, with little steps of 5th class tossed in here and there. Still hoping to go get on Backbone one of these days, and the beta from this thread should be very helpful. Thanks again.

How much does it cost? About the cheese grater: I saw my partner fall on lead there and grind her fingers down to little nubs, leaving red crayon marks all the way down the wall there, over about 15-20 feet -- it was bleak.

That last one makes me remember a great bumpersticker: "Instead of getting remarried, I just found some woman I hated and gave her my house and half my stuff."

From NPS Morning Report: (Full version available in link at bottom of post) Canyonlands National Park (UT) Search for Missing Canyoneer Beginning on Saturday, July 9th, a large scale search and rescue operation was conducted in Wayne County and Canyonlands National Park for a missing 56-year-old man, Melvin Goodman of Sandy, Utah, who had been reported overdue by his wife. Goodman, after reading Aron Ralston’s account of Bluejohn Canyon, intended to complete the same technical canyoneering route as Ralston . Ralston gained international notoriety in 2003 when he amputated his own arm after being trapped in the narrow slot canyon for five days by a shifting boulder (click on “More Information” below for the Morning Report account of Ralston’s self-rescue). Goodman parked his vehicle at the trailhead parking area for the Horseshoe Canyon unit of the Maze District and began biking the 15 miles to the start of the route, carrying a 30-pound pack on his back. He attempted to find the correct canyon entry point during the glaring heat of midday, but apparently missed the conventional route and completed several down-climbs without using his rope in a side canyon of Bluejohn. Apparently the side canyon was too difficult for Goodman and he retreated by climbing back up the difficult sections. He then attempted to make his way across the desert back to his vehicle to avoid the strenuous 15 mile bike ride by road. Goodman was out for two days and nights with little water and with temperatures near 100°. On Sunday, July 10th, he arrived at the parking lot on his own and was promptly located by NPS ranger Hilda Smith . He was severely dehydrated and had suffered minor bruises and abrasions. Goodman was transferred to Allan Memorial Hospital in Moab by a Utah Department of Public Safety helicopter and later transferred to the LDS hospital in Salt Lake City. The search and rescue operation involved personnel from Wayne County, Emery County, BLM, and the National Park Service. Resources included dog teams, horse teams, two fixed wing planes, a BLM contract fire helicopter, and the Utah Department of Public Safety helicopter. The main responsibility of National Park Service personnel was to clear the technical portion of the main Bluejohn Canyon. Rangers Jeff Webb (Canyonlands) and Jason Ramsdell (Arches) completed most of the technical descent in the dark, completing the final 70 foot rappel at about 1 a.m. The incident was managed by Wayne County Sheriff’s Office, with assistance from the Emory County Sheriff’s Office and the National Park Service. Since the original Ralston incident, there have been a number of minor incidents and mishaps involving both marginally equipped and experienced canyoneers seeking to follow in Ralston’s footsteps. [submitted by Peter Fitzmaurice, Chief Ranger] ****************************************** So, my initial response is to wonder how much of this copy-cat stuff happens in the mountain rescue world? I don't imagine too many people read Joe Simpson's book and then try to go repeat his route on Siula Grande, but I wonder how many Everest climbers weren't even climbers before reading Krakauer? What is it about tragedies that lead the inexperienced to want to repeat (or "conquer?") what others failed on? Link to full Morning Report MORNING REPORT

Assuming that Chalk is Aid (can we all agree on that much, at least?) then I wonder, is environmentally-colored chalk "Clean Aid?"

BUMP. Just curious if anyone has more current info on this route?

Yes, nice colors. The photographer composed the shot somewhat similarly to the cover of Kearney's climbing guidebook* * Which is sort of what naturally happens when you're on the summit looking back towards Moraine Lake. If there's a bright colored red or orange jacket, I give it to my partner so they can create the sort of contrast in this photo!

I really appreciate TR's like this one, which deliver succinct personal impressions of the climb, useful and timely information about conditions which will help others, and well-chosen excellent photographs. Thanks for a great TR and nice work on one of the best routes of its type in this amazing range!

I did it with a single 60 M rope and it was straightforward. The only tricky part is at the VERY END -- go far to the right, or West, on Burgundy Ledge) passing below several obvious wide cracks, squeeze chimneys, and fixed anchors above (note these, as they will be the rap route) until you're practically over the west face, then follow thin cracks (5.8) to the summit ridge.

I would have apologized, said something to the effect that I recognize the mistake I made (not locking the biner), and that I'm glad it was a learning experience instead of an injury.

Another way of looking at it is the personal responsibility lens. You say that they "Seemed to be competent," but what had you observed that you were basing that on? Also, did you have any sort of conversation at all about what constitutes an acceptable anchor, or just assume that they do it the same way you do?

So was the locking biner not locked? Were the biners opposite and opposed?

I didn't know that there was any climbing at Bryce -- isn't that all mud-stone? There's obviously great climbing at Zion, and Indian Creek, though I hear that Thanksgiving is getting a bit late for reliable temps and overall weather for Utah -- though I once climbed Ancient Art (Fisher Towers area) on Christmas Day.

Thanks! Is there a guidebook?

We saw LOTS of beargrass in the Tattoosh, up by Snow Lake and in the meadows between Unicorn and Pinacle

There is a pitch near the top which pulls through a huge roof on big holds, then soars up a long beautiful handcrack -- very unique for the WA Pass area -- the route is worth it for that pitch alone, practically -- plus, the approach is cake. Some of the loose gully pitches below are unpleasant, however...

Anyone been climbing in Sardinia? What would it be like in December/January??? Thanks!

I must disagree with the first part, and really appreciate the insight of the second part. It's hard to assess from the reports that this was not preventable. There may have been many options to back up the anchor, or other anchor options, any of which would have made it preventable. We don't have enough info to know. It may make us feel better to chalk it up to bad luck and say that it was not preventable, but I think that does a disservice to the potential learning that can come from such terrible accidents. Reading Accident in NA Mtneering is a good tool for analyzing incidents and recognizing ways in which many accidents are preventable. I greatly appreciate the insight of the second point, which is that the dangers and risks associated with climbing are part of what makes it such a rewarding, alluring human experience. Again, I am sad for the deceased, and especially for their families and friends.

Any hope of water if you bivy on top (short of carrying it all up from the glacier)?

It was recommended to me to climb the Buttress from a camp in the NF Bridge Creek and descend the same Buttress back to camp via rappels and downclimbing. Having just been there, what would you (Or anyone else who has climbed the route) think of such a strategy?

More details here than in previous reports: NPS Morning Report