goatboy

No pictures anymore?

Fantastic, nice job. Even "old guys" can still send proud lines on classic formations!

Folding a 60 M rope in half is a great way to go on this kind of route. Curious,where did you encounter the rockfall? Good call to bail down the W Ridge Couloir, given your description. It looks to me like you're roped up on that steep snow, but with no protection. Did you consider not roping up to cross that section, since a fall by either part could potentially pull both climbers off? Great trip report and great job on a super classic route.

Fisher Chimneys: how are glacier conditions? Anything other than standard glacier travel gear needed (I.e. ice screws) for late summer conditions?

It's very poor form to bring your dog to places like Pearly Gates in Leavenworth. Either dog gets gored by goat, or dog harasses goat needlessly. Either way, unacceptable.

Any sign of the road being open soon?

Stuart itself is out of the Stuart Zone, which refers to Stuart Lake area. I heard talk of expanding permits further south to include Stuart, Ingalls area....but no action on that so far.

Care to elaborate on the call to PSE?

He may be using the name SPOT interchangeably with some other new brands that pair with phones to create satellite uplink connections. The Delorme InReach is one such example. A lot has changed since that NWMJ article, which was cutting edge at the time it came out...

Thanks for the write-up, Luke

Thanks for the candid, detailed, and insightful report. Great job, and kudos for saving your partners and identifying action steps for the future.

Two separate search-and-rescue missions in NCNP this past weekend. Wondering if anyone here was involved and would be willing to share some of the details, contributing causes, lessons learned, etc. LINK Thanks in advance - GB

I heard that they're still doing the voluntary climber registration, but as part of your permit process -- no longer a check-out,check-back-in self service book.

Will a 30 meter rope get me off the thing, or do I need to carry a fully 60 meter rope? Anyone know?

Curious to know if people who have climbed this chosspile would recommend it in any way? Seems like things like this fall into a few categories, see poll. Thanks - GB

Who? I bet you do, or did -- and that's why you're selling your outdated one?

Fun!

Cascade Cobbler is highly recommended, timely, and will exceed expectations!

How much should the backpacks weigh? More than yours did in this SMALL PACK Trip Report Those are my thoughts on "these things."

What do you mean when you refer to the Stuart/Colchuck Col? The col atop the Colchuck Glacier?

Looks like the NBC to me, from what I can tell...

Sorry to hear about this and I do hope that he'll consider writing up the facts and analysis for ANAM. That's one place where facts and analysis can really serve the larger community and educate us all. Best wishes to him for a full recovery. Glad this wasn't even worse than it sounds like it was.

First of all, condolences and hope that as always, we can continue to learn from these tragedies. This next point may be best offered in a separate thread, but responding to the last post: Offering PLB's as an optional resource is great, but some believe that once a land manager requires them, that it could trigger corresponding obligation by that agency to provide response/rescue. Rad wrote a great article covering some of these disputes awhile back in LINK NWMJ. A quote from that article:

It might also be appropriate to consider learning self-belay, team arrest, and other fundamental skills on climbs where making a mistake does not entail plummeting to the Eliot Glacier as many have done. In my mind there's a difference between learning new skills and relying on those same (new) skills to save your life or your partner's life (likely, both if roped together on the Cooper Spur). Perhaps you should consider a progression of climbs where you can learn the skills outlined above, and apply them on increasingly challenging climbs where the consequences of failing are not quite so ... irrecoverable. Great photos, and thanks for the trip report.

Very nice. We were there too. Great place for Thanksgiving, year after year.