dan_e

Too small for me. Here until the weekend and then they're off to Ebay. PM in interested.

Only the Techno's left, price reduced to $40. I am selling both because they're too tight for me. The Techno's need a resole (worn for two seasons). The Boreal Blade's are in like new conditon and are great sport/gym shoes. Scarpa Techno size 40.5 - $60 ($119 retail) Boreal Blade size 42.5 - $80 ($130+ retail) Both for $110 Both shoes are about the same size, even though they're off by two euro sizes. I am a size 9.5/10. PM if interested.

No shipping on this item.

Sale pending...

I started collecting these the year I started climbing. They're a good resource for learning about climbing accidents. I studied them in detail when I first started climbing, mainly so I didn't end up in one of them some day! Although my friend and I are mentioned in the 1998 edition (not by name). We witnessed a party fall down the Emmons Glacier. The books are in perfect condition, except for 1991 and 1992 which show a little wear. The photo doesn't show the 2010 edition since it just arrived. Perfect for a collector (not me anymore) or a great gift for a someone new to climbing/mountaineering. Obsidian bookends not included. PM if interested. I guess a price would help, it's $40 for the lot

These front points have been sitting in a box for about five years, but they are in perfect condition. No rust, no wear (never used). I would imagine they're not too easy to acquire these days. PM if interested.

Solid, good work guys! This is shaping up to be an epic Strobach season!

From BD: QC Lab: How strong is the Spinner Leash? Thought I would post this link since it was mentioned in this thread. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/994566#Post994566

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/blog/index/view/slug/qc-lab-how-strong-is-the-spinner-leash I love the illustration with the ice tool stuck in the climbers face! My comment from 11/10: "After all the umbilicals are meant to save a dropped tool, not to hold a fall!" I am glad we're on the same page on this one BD.

Jpark and I climb Frenchman Falls today. We started at 0-dark-30 and geared up at the car for a quick walk in approach. Jpark noticed that a road skirts the base of the cliffs the last time he was there, this made for a speedy approach and it appears others have been doing the same. We started the approach at first light. While walking in we noticed the climb was showing some signs of thinning, however the top appeared to be fully closed. The temp when we left the car was 32 degrees and it stayed that way pretty much all day. Our only concern was sun, the forecast said partly cloud so we hoped for the best. I managed to climb to the first step before the sun decided to peak out and JP was doing his best to talk me out of continuing. Fortunately it was a decent spot to wait and see if the clouds would roll back in. A few quick prayers to Shiva (our ice goddess) and the clouds thickened. Fortunately the sun stayed behind the clouds for the rest of the climb. We would have bailed if the sun stayed out. We belayed at the good stance about 30-40' from the top (the start of the fragile upper ice dome). I brought rock gear and I was happy to get in a tri-cam for the exit move (no chance for a screw since the ice was only 1" thick in places). A few quick moves on the rock and left of the most fragile ice led to a beautiful, thick frozen stream! Usually the top-outs in areas like this are horrendous so this was truly a delight! PICS Bottom of the Route Lower Section - mushrooms galore! Me nearing top of pitch one Jpark on the Flora filled top out Gear Notes: 13cm and 16cm screws (thick ice can be found). One tied of column and one red tri-cam in a pocket around 4' from the top. Approach Notes: You can park on the right just as you start to see the Coulee or at the left pull-out a bit further down the road. Walk along the cliff edge until you meet the stream when it crosses under the road. Follow the road to the base of the climb (about 20 mins). Descent Notes: We were in no hurry so we decided to walk off (the rappel is off a fairly stout Sage bush). Hike up the gully to the top, not far from here the road appears. Walk out on the road or along the cliff edge until the angle lessens. This is just above where that stream crosses under the road. It's actually a nice way to get back the car.

Again to me it doesn't matter what other people climb with. I don't care who it is, if they are better or worse than me. I value top climbers for how they climb, not the gear they use. The gear we choose is and should always be personal preference. It's not like I am not open to ideas from others, it's that the decision is ultimately mine. As for my Darts, two items: A) that pic is was taken a few years ago and B) my points are more worn down, however not that much because I concentrate on foot work. Nothing worse than a ice/mixed climber that scratches at the rock and or swings their tool hard into thin ice. Side note to that, I met a guy who bent a BD pick this weekend. In 19 years of ice climbing/mixed/drytooling I've never even bent a pick let alone broken one. I could go on dane, however you've probably been here long enough to remember the days of good ole' 'caveman' and well you know I have better things to do than argue online, which is generally pointless. Maybe well meet someday and have this discussion over a beer, until then me and my darts are out. peace.

I could care less what the best or worst ice climbers use, I use what I think is best for me. I think in the end that's really what matters. You know know what the say..."opinions are like assholes, everyone has one"!

Just the thought of seeing my Darts scared 'dane' away! Yes I saw your original post.

Why horizontals? maybe for alpine mixed, but on pure ice routes you will quickly learn they fracture the ice more and do not 'stick' in the ice like monos do. Look at your ice picks, they are designed that way for a reason. Using monos is basically like having picks on your feet!

I've been at this game 19 years, five of those years have been with Nomics. I can say without a doubt the past five years have been the most enjoyable. I climb more efficently with leashless tools which means I can climb harder routes with a larger margin of safety. I was about as resistant to leashless as you could imagine. Five years ago I was still caught up in the 'old school' ways, I am so glad those days are long over. Here's a glimpse of those days long forgotten. I was wearing my 'new' footfangs that day, but I started ice climbing using Salewa Messner Scissors.

I think Dane has a good point. It's not that we shouldn't be getting out this early, however it's probably a good idea to use some caution. I am an ice freak and many of you are too and it's hard not to want to go out and climb any piece of frozen snot that has formed! Honestly I climb much more ice outside of WA, especially this time of year. If stuff comes in here than it's a nice bonus, but I don't rely on it. The quality of ice here in WA varies more than any place that I know of. A good example is Skookum Flass which I climbed last season and the season before that around the same time and it's like they were two completely different routes (it was amazing last year BTW).

It seems like WA climbers do dominate Hyalite. I think it's mostly due to the road being open on a regular basis. This is my second trip and I am hooked! As for snow vs. ice, IMO that's a no-brainer, but that's me. If MT ice climbers lived here for a season they would understand. Sure the snow was great, but the ice conditions were amazing for this time of year.

Trip: Hyalite - Various Date: 11/25/2010 Trip Report: 2 1/2 days of climbing in the canyon with Jpark. The ice was super fat for this time of year. Highlights of the trip were The Elevator Shaft, The Thrill is Gone and The Dribbles (p1+2). We also got on G2 and Hangover. The Elevator Shaft was fun, great ice and a beautiful climb. One thing to note is that climb (to the highest tree anchor) is 50m, not 75m as stated in Winter Dance. The Thrill is Gone was fat, ice all the way to the ground and took decent screws (no rock pro). The Dribbles was good, but the approach was a bit longer than I expected and the approach trail to the base of climb was postholing. We were both a bit injured so we decided to bail. We also learned how the climb got its name, at around 60m the left and right sides were dripping like crazy (in full sun). I would go earlier next time or climb it when it's overcast. Approaching the Dribbles Jpark on The Elevator Shaft Gear Notes: Standard ice rack, smaller screws for The Thrill is Gone. Approach Notes: Lots of snow, most trails packed out in the woods, but wind blow snow created deep snow on some of the approaches. The road is in great shape and if you have a truck of awd it takes no time to get to the parking lot. Not so great for the guy in the Corolla that lost it while were coming out.

I am confused bearbreeder because it appears that by listing all of the Arc'teryx gear you own it somehow demonstrates that Arc'teryx quality is nothing special. I am not an expert, however I am in the industry and I have extensive experience in the areas of product testing, design and manufacturing. I could start going on with specific details as for why certain companies products are better than others, however I have better ways to spend my time. Regarding this comment, "made over there", it's irrelevant where the product is produced, in fact some of the worst construction I've seen lately is US made. China, Vietnam and India have most of the best sewers in the world. Some Arc'teryx products are still sewn in BC, one example are the harnesses which are hand made. These harnesses are a prime example of Arc'teryx quality, not to mention that they are (IMO) the most compact and most comfortable harnesses ever made. Look at the sewing, look at the fabric quality, look at the finish of the buckles. The beauty is in the details. In my opinion many climbers just want to trash Arc'teryx because the make an $850 windstopper blazer, like this somehow dilutes the name. The old school days are over guys, outdoor gear makers need to adapt to survive. We're so spoiled with all the amazing gear we have these days, sure it's expensive but in reality no more than it was 15 years ago if you adjust for inflation. My first gore-tex suit was well over $800 for the bib and jacket (Florian) back in 1993. I had to practically sell my soul to buy it.

This weekend should be better, but it's still early. If I was in WA this weekend I would head back to Rap Wall. We had a blast climbing there on Sunday.

Snapped a pic of Frenchman's on the way to Hyalite. Not sure how fugs is, but it may in enough to climb. I would get there soon since the temps are supposed to be above freezing by Saturday.

Nope, but they are forming so maybe this weekend.

I was just telling a friend about that Alex! Man that was a long time ago!

I got one from the first manufacturing run, which was almost five years ago from what I can recall. Since then it's mainly moved from pack to pack, being ready for the time I forget my headlamp. I check the battery condition every year and it's always the same which is crazy bright especially considering it runs on two CR2023 watch batteries! Last season I saw a guy ice climbing and he had it attached to his harness. I thought that was a great idea and since then it's been on my biner that has of my bail gear on it (knife, cord, Tibloc, etc). Well it finally got used yesterday since my friend forgot his headlamp and it worked great for about 30 minutes coming down the trail from Rap Wall (the temp was about 26-28 degrees). I may change the batteries, however they still seem to have some juice left for the next time.

Just a brief TR on the Rap Wall drytooling area above Source Lake. Sorry no pics since I forgot the camera. This was my third trip to Rap Wall this season, the first two were before any snow had fallen. The approach trail (summer) is in good shape, as it's still being packed out by hikers. Getting to the wall was another story, basically waist deep postholing. It's a good thing it's not that far from the trail. As for the routes, well there was a fair amount of snow, however the climbs are still all fully exposed. There was some ice of ice, but most of it was annoying and made the two climbs we did at least a grade harder, not to mention having to chip ice of bolts and not finding chains because they were buried! I had several falls, one was pretty long (20+') and fully inverted That being said I think there should be quite a bit more ice formed by the weekend which could make for fun mixed climbing. Important Note: I installed a bolt on the route with the roof that has the larger than fist crack in it (the crack is now filled with ice). The bolt is just at the apex of the roof, to the right of the crack. I fell on the bolt several times so it's been tested. I heard Chad Kellogg fell on the original bolt and it pulled out! I was really lucky that ice has formed a damn above it so the hole was bone dry. The hole was drilled fine, not sure why the original bolt pulled.