dan_e

Climbing ice w/o leashes is stupid (IMO). Who gives a rats ass about what the euros think. As for Android Leashes, the still kick arse! A few isolated problems with the clips, big freakin' deal. Any one who has been buying gear long enough should know to inspect it for defects. No climbing manufacturer produces 100% defect free products, it's impossible. BD products (again, IMO) are the best available. The make the best screws, strongest cams, and their quality control is much better than it used to be. Dan E.

I just got back from the Leavenworth area and I can confirm all of this, but it's even worse now. The upper pitches on Drury are gone and yes it's a raging waterfall! The Pencil is toast, except for a tiny bit at the top. Hubba Hubba is gone, except for a bit of ice on the left and to the right of the main flow. On a positive note there is lots of water flowing now and if we get a good cold front things should be looking good in a week or two. Let's all pray to the ice gods! Dan E. [ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

I bought the BD SpaceShot for my Rockies trip and I used it to approach murchison falls. After hiking for a while I realized I could get by with just the LED, which provides just enough light to see where you are going. So far I think this is the best headlamp I've ever owned, I previously used the Petzl Zoom and Micro. The fact that it has two bulbs (one halogen and one LED, plus an optional Xenon bulb and NiCad rechargable battery and also spare power made it the only choice for me). The only annoying thing is the external battery supply, but you get used to it and it helps save precious battery life. Dan E.

I used one around the Hostels up in the Rockies and realized that this little things throws off a ton of light. I also left it in the truck overnight (-27 deg c) and it still worked fine in the cold. I will be using it more this summer for those unplanned night descents! One thing to note is the illumination does fall off quick once the batteries get low, but I have yet to experience that. Dan E.

[ 01-08-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

I can't see that it would be easier than pressing a clip, but you're right I have not tried it (I did state that the Grivel was the only one I had not tried). I may try it out just to see the difference. Dan E.

A leash that allows me to unclip from my ice tool in seconds is worth well more than $40! If you get the attachment point right, many of the problems reported will be reduced or disappear. Use hose clamp and set attachment point as low as possible. Don't set too low or you won't be able to grab the top of the tool. If the attachment point is lower the clip in part on your wrist will be shorter making it easier to grab to re-clip, it will also help reduce the flopping around of the connection clip. I tuck the clip away when belaying so it does not get snagged (hardly a hassle). The Android may be complicated or high-tech, but IMO it makes ice climbing more enjoyable and helps simplify placing pro on lead, which as most ice climbers know is a big part of the game. This is why I think other leashes suck (I've used all of what is listed below, except for the Grivel) Twist leashes = Can't let tool hang (it can and will untwist and fall off!). So much for fist jams between icicles! Lockdown Leashes = Must adjust correctly or you hand goes numb and or freezes solid, also must re-adjust for each glove size. Takes longer to get hand free of leash and can be akward. Other clip Style Leashes (Grivel model) = Difficult to unclip mini-biner with big gloves and clip in point is not centered on the shaft of the ice tool, this could make swing less precise. Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Fred, If you are referring to the custom molded footbeds, I tried them out this summer on a hike into the Enchantments and I have to say they worked great (reduced foot pain for sure). My arches are collapsing, so my only alternative was orthotics which are usually hard as a rock and very expensive (also not usually covered by insurance, HMO's suck!) The best thing about them is the vacuum fit them to your un-weighted foot. Most orthotics are fit while you are standing, resulting in a insert that is molded with the problems that your foot has. I hope that makes sense, I am sure they can explain it better. Be sure to check out their website: http://www.superfeet.com/superfeet.html Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Just tried these up in the Rockies and I have to say they are the best glove I've owned to date. I've used the following brand of gloves for ice climbing: Outdoor Research, Climb High, Mont-bel, and Mountain Hardware. They only glove that comes close to the Ice Glove is the Mont-bel, mainly because they have a gore-tex insert. The worst of the bunch were the MH, they leaked instantly, even after seam-gripping all seams from the inside! Positive Comments: Extremely waterproof (used on a climb that had of pouring water for about 15m and they did not leak!). Dexterous considering the amount of insulation (they are a warm glove, I sized them to be used with a thin polypro liner which increases warm as well. I have a fairly large hand and the lg. size fits me well with the liner on). They work well while frozen (after the pouring water section, temps were -9 deg. C) Knuckle padding is nice, the one good bash I did resulted in not feeling any pain, imagine that! Negative Comments: Elastic cuff could be a bit tighter. Expen$ive, but worth it money IMO. Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Well, it's the beginning of season two with the Android leashes and they still kick ass! Those who have dropped tools with these leashes probably set them up wrong. I have not even come close to dropping a tool yet and they work in any condition/mode. I have them covered with ice in the Rockies, used them while hacking branches on the top of climbs at Banks Lake, and also hanging while doing a bit of mixed climbing. In my opinion they are one of the better inventions for ice climbing I've seen in over ten years. Kudos to Black Diamond!!!!!!!!!! Dan E.

My last climb was at Louise Falls and the upper column was not formed. We climbed up to the cave to check things out and the ice leading up to the curtain had been climbed, but it did not look like the curtain had been touched. I poked around a bit, but decided to not give it a go, mostly because the pro on the ice to the curtain was not good enough for me. Two guys from Calgary tried it after we rapped down and the leader ended up bailing after placing about 4-5 screws before the curtain. It looks like it won't be long before it touches down to form the 'normal' line. Dan E.

Dear Geezers, How you acclimate is mostly due not to how well conditioned you are, but rather your physiology (how your body adapts to the change in pressure, partly by increasing red blood cell production). The fact that you grew up at 6,000' makes little difference now since I am assuming you now live close to sea level like the rest of us! This also is a factor for ascending to altitude, since our bodies are adjusted to sea level pressures. If you lived at a high altitude now, you might indeed have an advantage. So basically your body can adapt, but the unanswered question for those who have not been to a high altitude (10,000'+) is how fast and how well will their body adapt! Below is how I first dealt with altitude. I climbed to 20,320' after only being to an altitude of 6288' and I did better than most who have been higher. My parents have both been above 13,000' in Switzerland and had no problems adjusting to the altitude. They were not climbing, but my mom has severe asthma and has about one lung breathing capacity (I'm a diagnosed asthmatic as well). So, I know that I adapt well to altitude and I consider it a 'gift', one that I should be more thankful for (that means I should be climbing less ice and more big mountains!) So I hope this at least helps encourage you. I can't tell your how age would affect your acclimation though, but I am sure if you look hard enough you will find some information on the web. Good Luck and be sure to post a trip report when you return! Dan E.

I agree, conditions were excellent at Baker on Thursday! My girlfriend and I had a great time trying to re-learn how to board! I think I am hooked, maybe not possessed like I am about ice, but still it was a blast! Dan E.

Ice seemed well formed, looks like it's been pretty cold up there (the snow was excellent). I am not sure if it was Pan Dome falls, but when heading up C-2 there is a small section of ice of to left before C-1, it would be worth climbing maybe if you were already there to ski or board, but IMO not worth a 2.5+ hour drive. If this is not Pan Dome falls please correct me. Dan E.

I wanted to hear this from the horses mouth you could say, so I asked Yates directly: What I asked: "I was wondering if you can clarify what type of carabiners should be used on your screamer and zipper screamer models. I've heard a locker on the rope end, locker on both ends, andalso no need for lockers on either end for the new models?! I would like to know exactly what you, the manufacturer recommends." Reply from Karen at Yates: "Gate vibration does not occur on linear stitch patterns, of which all Yates load limiters are made. Any carabiner can be used, locking or non locking, wire or reg gate." I always had used a locker on the rope end, because I someone I trusted back in the day told me it's a good idea, but it sounds like it was unnecessary. The reason I asked is because I am using load limiters more this season for ice climbing, mostly because of the ropes I am using (BW Ice Floss). Dan E.

Will, I have the Rambocomps, but with mono-points. I noticed my points have one hole in the rear and two in the front. I was not aware that you could offset the dual points though. My mono-points are offset, but only from center. If you can't get this working you might want to try the mono-points, I switched four years ago and have not used dual-points since (except for alpine). There are so many advantages to mono-points, on the down side sometimes if the ice is really rotten you shear through a bit more having only one point, but in that case all I do is kick in harder to reach the secondary points. Dan E.

Thermarests - Depends on which model you have. I have the old model of the ultralite. It packs MUCH smaller than a ridgerest or foam pad ever could. It may weigh a bit more, but I find it to be a better insulator. I still use just a 3/4 foam if it's for a bivy. BD Switchblades - I total agree, they suck big time, I had the first model. Screws came loose, they rusted, and the bails were recalled! However, they may have finally produced a decent pair of crapmons, the new Bionics look sweet! Bluewater Ropes - Not that bad, but tangle too much and absorb water more than others. Hydration Units (any) - You must be crazy if you don't like them, especially when going solo! No more removing your pack (especially the big ones) to drink, easier to drink more often, they hold more water, ect. ect.! I started to use them mtn. biking and I would never carry a water bottle on a bike again. True they are not as useful in winter, especially multi-day, but you can insulate the bag and the tube or buy the snow version if you wish. I've never had a bite-valve drip, camelbak or Platypus. [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

Last I heard (a week ago), the lower stuff is not formed, but Drury was looking at least partially formed. I am sure the crowds will be backed up on RT 2 soon enough! Dan E.

I just checked and the page is up. Dan E.

Check out this site for cordellete testing: Great info. on this can be found here: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/ The best, most complete info. I've seen yet. Dan E.

Great info. on this can be found here: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/ The best, most complete info. I've seen yet. Especially the water knot test! I've alwayshated this knot, Double or triple fishermanis the only way to go when it comes to joiningslings and this test helps prove it! http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Water_Knot_Testing.pdf Also check out the cordellete testing, I wassurprised at the results. http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf Dan E.

Okay, since I am trying to spread the word about my new photography web site, I am posting here as well, but hell it's the spray section so anything is legal! So, please if you are interested in fine-art, black and white photography or even if you are not, check out my site: http://www.dsephoto.com There are pictures of ice there, not stuff you climb though! 99% of the photos are from my home state of New Hampshire. Well, Enjoy and Spray away with your comments if you choose. Dan E.

This year is shaping up to be like a 'normal year', at least as far as I've experienced. Although snow level has been pretty low a bunch of times already this season, that's encouraging. I loved it last season, all the skiers were whining, but there was enough snow for ice. I hope we get a colder/drier spell soon. Dan E.

I agree with Lambone. Although I think spray is annoying for the most part, it may have it's place, but not here. I am sure some of you will still post 'spray' here anyway, but all non-ice conditions topics will be moved to spray or to their rightful topic. Your kind hearted ice conditions co-moderator, Dan E.

No spray here, yet... You guys both have good points and I agree with both of you on some level. My life goal used to be K2, but I will not cry if I never even climb over 20,000 feet. I don't know if I would want to deal with all of the crap (logistics) that comes with doing a 8000m peak. Of course I would not even consider going to Pakistan any time in the near future, sorry but no peak is worth being tortured in some prison! There is the Chinese side, but still. I still want to play in Alaska more anyway, plenty to do on Denali, Hunter, and others. I have to add this, perfect example of what I would never want to deal with, check out this site about a 2000 expedition to K2: http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/2000/k2/dispatches.html Read some of the "dispatches". Dan E. [ 11-30-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]