chucK

peter puget = gutter peep or teet prep gu dan larson = arson land

AlpineK = Kine pal

Hey Ed, Are your shoes with Erik's guidebook? You gotta pack before you pack! Senior moment? Hah, more like Friday night High School Senior moment is my guess. Heh, just bustin' yer chops Big Ed . Hope you get yer shoes back.

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: My understanding is simplistic, but here goes: Clipping two 8 mm ropes into one piece is similar to clipping one 16 mm rope into the same piece. It's not that bad. It's more like an 11.3mm rope. That is two 8mm ropes have about the same cross-sectional area as one 11.3mm rope.

quote: Originally posted by philfort: If you dehydrate the meal, you have to boil it for several minutes to get the water back in, so it's not so quick or fuel efficient. You usually don't have to boil the meal. Just add hot water and let it sit for a while (insulate it with your fleece). So, there's not a problem with the fuel efficiency, but you're dead on with it being not so quick.

I could tell you some stuff to do with kids up there, but you didn't ask about kids I guess. One thing you might have your wife do is guard your stuff so those DAMN CANADIANS DON'T STEAL IT!!! And like those other guys said, there's supposedly a lot of mt. biking there, and windsurfing.

My front page and "last 40 posts" page aren't showing me the latest posts today (like it ignores the pub club thread). Is this happening to anyone else or is it screwiness isolated to my box?

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: For me, the proper rating of a roped climb is determined by the difficulty of the easiest path up that ascends the given area of rock without straying so far from the protection that the fall potential is increased to an unacceptable level. Of course, the danger of what an unnaceptable level varies with the climber. By this definition Lingerie could be given the harder grade if you defnine the "given area of rock" to exclude the Sex Party dihedral. Curiously enough, you can avoid the crux of Sex Party by diverting over to Lingerie. Perhaps there should be a new route in the next guide, Sexy Lingerie Party 5.9. quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: The whole point of rock climbing is taking the challenge that nature presents you and solving it by 1) making yourself stronger and 2) finding the easiest way. Contrived climbs ignore 2) in order to train for 1). For me, 2) is the most beautiful and rewarding part of climbing. There are very few climbs that satisfy #2 until you start adding on restrictions. You could say that the only climb on Mt. Stuart that satisfies #2 is the Cascadian Couloir. All climbs are defined by drawing a path to some extent, after which you say "find the easiest way up" along this path. We call some climbs contrived when the defined path just gets too convoluted. Where this cutoff is is difficult to define. Bolting is a way to define the path. Sometimes the bolts don't follow the easiest way to toprope a piece of rock [Cosmos at Smith], but if you really need the bolts to lead the section of rock then by default the bolt trail has defined the easiest path (for a leader). I don't know where this fits in, but when Dean Potter soloed Astroman he apparently skipped one of the technical cruxes because there is an easier way if you don't mind not having any protection. Is Astroman contrived? Did Dean Potter climb Astroman? quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: FIRST ASCENSCIONISTS IGNORING THE FLOW OF THE ROCK. A first ascensionist has a responsibility to those who follow to establish lines along natural paths. There are those who would argue that you cannot call it a natural path if it needs to be augmented with bolts. Thanks Matt. Nice thread [ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]

Dude that's MY topic

I knew RURP was there! I just knew it! Pub Club ruled last night. I actually got to talk to some of these people when I was just as drunk as I am when I post! Let me tell you kids out there, get in on the action before this thing gets too big. Pretty soon it's gonna be in some big rented hall, gear company vendors handing out stickers, $5 plastic cups of Miller, frisk you at the door, and no in-and-out privileges. Make the scene soon so someday you'll be able to tell the younguns how you were there "back in the day" when Ray Borbon was still a young aspiring alpinist, when Erik Snyder still had to work a day job, when pints only cost $2.50. The time is now. Check it out. You'll be kicking yourself if you don't see what it's like before the big corps turn it into XTREEM CascadeClimbers Rave patrol day on the green.

We should take all these things that nobody wants in theirbackyard and consolidate. Find the place that's not in the backyard of too many people (that matter; i.e. people of power) and then just go nuts. First log the shit out of it. Total clearcut annihilation, then on the cleared land have your big ugly open pit mine. Then when that's tapped out, make it a dump (regular or toxic waste), and put a power plant there with a little supporting community where all released sex offenders can live. Why spread it all out?

Pope's response got me thinking about the "contrived" issue. I guess I was getting at this when I sent out the post about Lingerie. I was pretty sure the book rating only made sense if you kept yourself from using holds that are easily reachable. In one sense this seems foreign to climbing on real rock, and more like climbing in a gym, hence my taped holds comment. But...I got to thinking . Where do we draw the line? It seem obvious in some instances, like a problem at the UW rock with giant verboten hold that makes the problem much more difficult because you need to do some serious contortions to avoid touching it. What about the opposite side of the spectrum though? You [it]could[\it] say that every climb on Snow Creek Wall is "contrived" because you could much more easily walk up the back side. Is the Remorse start to Outer Space contrived because there's an easier way to get to Two Tree Ledge? Is Pony Keg at Vantage contrived if you resolve to not clip the bolts on Whipsaw? What makes something "contrived"? Does it matter? Not really, but it might be an interesting discussion. What do you think?

5.7- Senior Citizens in Space, 5.7- Sickle Crack (up left to Pisces)5.9- Battered Sandwich, Magic Fern Isn't Thin Fingers officially a 10 now if you go around the crux at the start of p2?

Did you call the North Bend ranger station. I'm sure they would know what's going on Here's what's on their website, maybe this will help (road #57 by the way). 3/21/2002: The bridge at Bear Creek is unsafe and has been closed; park and walk two miles to the Lennox Creek trailhead. Snow.

Hey Peter! Keep up will you? Erik can't tell you who the he in his is because he lost his damn guide!!! SHEEEESH!!!

DUDE!!! LIGHT, err.., LIGHTHEN UP!!! I WAS JUST JOKING. YOU CAN BORROW MY GUIDE IF YOU WANT.

Do you have an REI near you Jack? If so, stop by and ask a salesperson there. They are always eager to help and very knowledgable about climbing equipment.

See! That was your big mistake. You should have packed before you packed!

Pack before you pack!

That is the weird thing about Vantage. Sometimes the ratings seem so easy that I think that I've used holds that are not "in". You know, like in a gym. I wish they just had colored tape at Vantage . Anybody climbed Lingerie? That's rated 11d or something did not seem too bad (on toprope) if you just stemmed out to Sex Party the whole time.

Hey Al, Maybe you've done this already, but if you really wanna practice your crack technique, just head down to the UW Rock. Erik, Is Jihad as good as the book makes it sound? Anybody get parking tickets at Vantage this weekend?

I like Aliens a lot. I just don't know which color goes with which size so I wrote TCU. TCU's seem good and indestructible and are usually cheaper than Aliens, but Aliens just seem to stick wherever you set 'em. Mattp made a valid point about being able to shove in TCU's at the extent of your reach, where this would be more difficult with the Aliens.

AlpineKSparky

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: I take the 4 largest hexes instead of double cams on many routes. It saves weight and expense, especially if you have to leave a piece.Check the weight specs from the manufacturers. The #11 hex is 10 grams lighter than the #4 forged Friend. The #10 hex is only 4 grams lighter than a #3.5 friend. So you may save some weight on those but not very much. You start saving more weight on the smaller sizes (24 grams, almost an oz) on the #8 Hex versus 2.5 Friend. Hexes definitely ARE cheaper though. But the fiddle factor is sooo much worse with Hexes than Friends. I think if you wanna double up on the big cams I say get yourself a #4 Camalot (they are so nice when weight isn't an issue) and get the #4 Friend for when weight is an issue. The #8 hex seems worthwhile because it actually saves a reasonable amount of weight AND you don't have to worry as much about the fiddle factor because when you're placing this one you'll be in a bomber handcrack. see size by weight pro charts for more comparisons.