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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/23/21 in all areas

  1. Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA Trip Date: 04/17/2021 Trip Report: Today a group of us (@Nolan E Arson, @ktarry, @The Real Nick Sweeney) did what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Ramp off of the Eliot glacier. Of course I’m half-expecting someone to show up and post photos of a previous climb of the route, but we don’t have any reason to think it’s been done before and it’s listed as unclimbed in Mullee’s guidebook. We approached by racing the hoards up the South Side. @Nolan E Arson and I simul soloed DKHW 1, which is becoming quite mixed, to reach the summit, and then dropped down to the Queen’s Chair, with @ktarry and @The Real Nick Sweeney close behind. We continued down to near the top of Horseshoe Rock and traversed across, staying underneath the large bergschrund at the top of the glacier. The whole Eliot Headwall area, with lots of ice and lots of footprints from the last couple weeks: @Nolan E Arson and I approached the lower left ice flow that leads up and right to near the bottom of the upper snow ramp (orange line in photo below). @ktarry and @The Real Nick Sweeney approached the slightly higher streak of ice that forms a straight line with the upper ramp (yellow line). Perhaps one of them can chime in here to describe their first pitch. We started by doing a little mini pitch, still in our glacier travel setup, to get above the frighteningly undercut/moated area right up against the rock: From here we could see that there was ice leading all the way to the upper ramp. @Nolan E Arson led a nice fun pitch of WI3 (photo below), eventually meeting up with @ktarry who had traversed in from our right. While following I got a good view of @The Real Nick Sweeney coming up the other line: I started up the snow ramp, which is easy at first and then progresses to a few steeper mixed moves: Above this was the big unknown part of the climb. Some random photos we’d found online seemed to show easy, fairly flat snow wrapping around from the top of Cathedral Ramp to meet up with the top of the Pencil. Every time I’d looked across from the Queen’s Chair recently, however, the top out looked dry and steep and kind of scary. After the brief section of mixed climbing I reached a ledge where I could see that I was around 10-15 meters from the top of the Pencil. Of course I’d hoped to see an easy way across, but instead I was confronted with a few meters of climbing on absolutely atrocious, crumbling rock, up on to a previously invisible little ridge: Thankfully things weren’t that steep and I proceeded through this section without too much trouble. The rock was so loose and shitty that I didn’t even consider placing any gear, though I think perhaps @The Real Nick Sweeney found a decent cam placement on his way through? From on top of the little ridge there was a clear way to traverse, mostly on ice, to gain the main part of the North Face Cleaver, near the top out of the Pencil. I was hoping to climb the additional ice pitch to the top of Cathedral spire from the Pencil trip report, but at this time it’s completely melted. Maybe it's only there in the winter? Instead, @Nolan E Arson led around to the left on a series of icy ramps and snowy ledges: We were eventually deposited in the North Face right gully directly above the upper ice pitch. From here we unroped and soloed back to the summit. I'll add some concluding thoughts at a later time, once I've slept! Gear Notes: Took a lot of stuff. Mostly used screws with just an occasional piece of rock pro. Approach Notes: South Side
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  2. Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ridge Trip Date: 04/18/2021 Trip Report: Finally got a nice window to shoot for this route on 04/18/2021, just as cool as I anticipated! Good icy conditions, more "climbing" than expected. Nice campsite at 8050'. Full trip report and lots of route info: http://gethighonaltitude.com/2021/04/22/mt-hood-cathedral-ridge/ Gear Notes: 2x short screws, 2x pickets, a few slings Approach Notes: Timberline to Illumination to Yocum to Sandy
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  3. Holy cow how about them Mariners!!!! Split with Dodgers, and just beat the Red Sox in Fenway in extra innings. Heartbreak must be dead ahead.
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  4. OK, as you asked I banned you. I think it is the right call all around. I hope you get the help you need (albeit maybe not the help you want). I'm also locking this thread. Peace out.
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  5. What I wonder, like @olyclimber, is why us @DanO? Why do you care about us so much and not the people over on TAY or Facebook, or wherever? Because, let's be honest, we're not that lovable. Except for @Bronco. He's a love machine!
    1 point
  6. Yes. @jonhas to fix that. I’ll message him.
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  7. No problem i understand that. But my orginal post still stands. Ban free speech and YOU may win the Darwin awards. Right now I am starting to see a turning of the 5th generational warfare situation. This is huge and is good and bad. Many conservative area's, the people are not taking vaccines and the mask and lockdown mandates are being lifted. In those area's the Covid deaths are less or no worse, also in the non lockdown areas the economies are doing better. So the pro vaccine forces are losing the information war on most conservatives, but over top winning on the democrat types. This is what the dark elites are now facing. They can't let it ride too long they must act. What will that action be? The obvious action will be newly dropped viruses, Covid in nature, nasty mutations. But will that work effectively? It is said we have herd immunity with all current common forms of Covid. So that may not work? If so then the other likely options are big false flags or a war. Nevertheless, the conservative types, the bulk of them will resist taking the Mrna vaccine no matter what, that won't change even with newly dropped viruses and new lockdowns. That is not the dark elite orginal plan and likely will leave the conservatives as the majority political force in a number of years. Plus or minus the mostly non vaccinated incoming migrant invasion force at the border. So in this very fluid situation, dark elites may drop new viruses, in red states, and see how that goes, if not good for them. Then the false flag or war option. While all this is playing out the currency/economic disasters are looming ahead. Note, I can't predict the exact future, these are only possibilities and the situation is fluid.
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  8. No mask, no lockdown , less vaccine, less covid. https://www.zerohedge.com/covid-19/texas-ended-lockdowns-mask-mandates-now-locked-down-states-are-where-covid-growing-most
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  9. Be sure to read chapter 19. Page 75 onward. It defines the phrase, conspiracy theory. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.centerforhealthsecurity.org/our-work/pubs_archive/pubs-pdfs/2017/spars-pandemic-scenario.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiz6dXziZLwAhXMsJ4KHTmkA8sQFjACegQIDxAC&usg=AOvVaw297WKz3HLUh_REKRJuVokc
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  10. Banning is the easy solution , just do it and get it over with. You know if the Mrna vaccines are so great why the 100% immunity for lawsuits? Nothing else but vaccines gets this special treatment. This is for profit making enterprise. Does this make sense to anyone? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.centerforhealthsecurity.org/our-work/pubs_archive/pubs-pdfs/2017/spars-pandemic-scenario.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiz6dXziZLwAhXMsJ4KHTmkA8sQFjACegQIDxAC&usg=AOvVaw297WKz3HLUh_REKRJuVokc A interesting thing i just found in this document , in the simulation they expect the rise of mysterious symptoms in a few people (pg 69) one year after taking the vaccime. This lines up somewhat with Dr Tenpenny's statement that autoimmune reaction due to the vaccine likely will peak after a year.
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