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Hey now! I have a white pack. And yeah it doesn’t make me any less of a slow lard ass. But man the pack looks good. It’s like wearing a Jordon jersey when shooting hoops at school across the street.

Such a bad ass trip! Great work. I'm super impressed by how fast you guys climbed the West Arete. It seems there are several ways to go on the lower and upper ridge - some of the terrain in your photos looks a lot different than what we did. The crux traverse of the West Arete is pretty sweet but I understand how you accidentally bypassed it. It is not an obvious entrance to that section. EMS looks so, SO good. I'm really stoked you guys got it done. I'm definitely going back for it.

Awesome trip. Loved the part about running vests. I feel the same way about white backpacks... but hey, my white backpack makes me feel ELITE.

Who really cares about this shit anymore? Still, if you eat all the dessert--and skip your dinner--you didn't really finish your meal.

What rope did you use for hauling your pack?

Not too bad now that we started using the talus fields. We were originally using the slide alder and open forest in early season but shockingly that got real overgrown. Its a little brushy getting across the braided creek, but its short and there is currently a hacked/stomped in tunnel through the worst of it. There is also a short shwack at the top of the second talus field to get to the base of the wall. All in all its really not bad at all right now.

Go Lucas!

Howdy friends, I'm moving to Vancouver from Colorado for grad school this year and I need a crew! I am very skilled in ski mountaineering and just okay at ice, mixed, and trad. Usually I prefer to do those in order to get to a better ski line rather than from intrinsic motivation. I know it's early to be thinking about skiing but if you're also planning next year's routes I want to be your friend! I'll ski just about anything but I'm a bit of a snow snob (I like good snow on steep lines). I am very happy to discuss experience and expectations. My instagram is @declanknies if you wanna see what I've done or message me there. DM me if you're stoked to get out! Would love to make some friends to be ready for the first snowfalls... I tried to attach some pictures from the year not sure if they'll show up!

That is pretty funny. Also I’ll need your credit card number, expiration, and number on the back.

Super cool. What's the bushwack situation to the base...? It feels like, from your description, that it's not that bad...?

That’s some serious effort! Look forward to checking it out.

Thanks for sharing this one. I’ve been curious about it for years!

Cool!

you give it all you got, weighing in at 19 stone:

New never used or opened BD Eldorado tent and new vestibule. Bought for a trip that never materialized and now just being stored. $750

EMS looks awesome! Nice work!

Way to get after it Lucas! Thanks for the report!

There are few Grizzlies out there and you're much more likely to see a Black Bear with brown fur. I've seen a bunch. Thanks for the trip report, pretty active five days!

rad!

Well done getting all that done solo, and safely, in a few days!

Wait. There were THREE parties on the West Arete of Eldorado in one day??! I would be surprised if it got climbed 3 times in one year. Interesting. That is a crazy fast amount of climbing in a few days!

Trip: Cascade River Road - Forbidden, Spider, Boston, and many more solo Trip Date: 08/11/2025 Trip Report: Went up to Cascade River Road for the past couple days to take advantage of the good weather. Didn’t have a partner so just decided to mess around for a while. Apparently my adult friends do this thing called work. Who does that! Summits were: Forbidden, Boston, Sahale, Magic, Arts, Formidable, Spider, Little Devil, Devil Benchmark, Teebone Ridge. Thursday 8/7 Dropped my mom off at work before heading north, got there around 11. Pretty cloudy and had big plans for the next few days so I just ran up to little devil peak and copy climber kyle. Bagged Teebone ridge and Devil benchmark along the way. Enjoyed some perfect huckleberries on the way up. Startled a large bear on the way down, only 25 feet from me. The fur was brown but I don’t think there are any grizzlies out there so who knows. Friday 8/8 Arose at sunrise and moving at 6am up to Cascade pass with 3 days of food, went over the cache glacier and saw a black bear on the other side of the col. This time we saw each other and maintained distance. Slogged it over to the other side of the middle cascade glacier where I got to the bottom of that South-facing gully around 1. Went up Spider mountain using the left gully at first before gaining the rib between the two. Got back to the ptarmigan traverse trail around 5 where I worked my way over to the access col to formidable for a nice night. Saturday 8/9 Arose once again at sunrise and climbed formidable in the morning in 4 hours camp to camp. Saw another party coming up as I headed down from the col. Slogged it back up to the middle cascade and felt pretty pooped by the time I got to the red ledges. Dropped the pack and scurried up Art’s Knoll. After that headed over to kool-aid lakes where I stashed a lot of gear before going up Spider. Made it back down around 6 or 7 before more slogging up to cache col for a sweet bivy site. Spilled my pad thai all over myself which I was unhappy about. Sunday 8/10 Another sunrise wakeup got me moving at 6, down to cascade pass, and up to Sahale where I summited around 11:30. Stashed overnight gear on my way up to the arm. Always fun passing people in trailrunning vests. Simply buying an vest and some poles won’t make you kilian jornet, still need cardio. Anyways, over to Boston where I topped out around 12 or 12:15? Explored the summit register before rappelling down. Yes I did carry a 60m purline all that way for 2 rappels. Training weight or something. Cruised it back to the car. Monday 8/11 Had to meet a neighbor in the evening to talk about watering his plants but nothing else going on. Also had a dentist on Tuesday preventing me from staying another day. Soloed up W. ridge Forbidden in 4:15 car to summit. Topped out around 7:15 before heading down at 8 with another soloist from Montana. Rope was nice for rappels. Back at the car by 12:30, home around 3:30. I guess I could’ve waken up later. Don’t see myself becoming some big free-soloist but the route seemed like a good option for it. Sure is nice to not fuss with ropes through easy terrain. Gear Notes: Approach shoes and Crampons would work for everything. I carried boots because I like carrying things I regret carrying later. Rapping boston feels good and a purline doesnt weigh much. Approach Notes: Forbidden can be reached without touching any snow

Nice, it made a believer of me. High five!