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Trip: East McMillan Spire - North Buttress Trip Date: 09/24/2025 Trip Report: As Blake seems to speculate in the back of Cascades Rock, this is a legitimately high quality route. While the rock is of course worse than Index or Supercave, it is better than the E ridge of Inspiration or Stoddard Buttress on Terror (and much better than Megalodon). It's also less vegetated than the E face of Triumph or Sloan SW face. There was only one pitch we wouldn't recommend (up high in the schist band), but it can and should be avoided. The steep middle section is characterized by thin parallel cracks, highly textured ripples, and shady climbing with a shocking lack of lichen. When you emerge onto the slightly more West facing schist band for the last few hundred meters, lichen becomes tiresome as the angle eases and rock deteriorates. There are absolutely a couple of serious runouts, but they occur on clean, solid rock. From camp on a small heather patch a few minutes below Little Mac, we approached via a ledge just below Little Mac that accesses the NW trending ridge toward Elephant Butte. We made four rappels beginning at at an old station I had found during a recon trip in October 2020. This seems likely to be the rappel used by the 1986 party, maybe also the 1976 party, and I think @rat has also mentioned climbing the buttress, so perhaps used it as well. The 2008 party (AAJ, NWMJ) approached via Stetattle ridge. After four 45-55m rappels, we walked and scrambled easily to the base of the buttress. We simulclimbed 200-300m on the lower buttress, then belayed eight ~45-50m pitches (5.8 to 5.10-), then simulclimbed (interrupted by one belayed pitch, which we would recommend avoiding) to the summit. For the central, steep section we wanted to climb near but right of the buttress crest, which except for pitch 2 (a horizontal leftward traverse) yielded a logical path almost directly upward. Looking upwards from low on the buttress, two corners right of the crest (separated by a chossy roof) seem to provide the obvious options into the steeper middle section. We aimed for the left corner (which we presumed was the 2008 route), and thought the right corner was probably the 1986 route. We encountered many pieces of fixed gear throughout the route (mostly knifeblades, with a few nuts, a hex, and a rigid stem friend). Since the 2008 party rappelled the face (!!!), presumably close to their line of ascent, we think we followed large portions of their route (Come Over to the Dark Side). That said, I haven't really managed to match the route lines in either the NWMJ or AAJ to our experience (at least at the resolution I can manage to download). From the summit, we downclimbed SW to the col with West McMillan, then continued downclimbing S in the gully for a few minutes. When the gully's left wall flattened, we slung a boulder and made four 45-55m rappels to reach low angle slopes and walked back to camp, arriving about 15 hours after leaving that morning. West McMillan, Inspiration, The Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror from high on the route: From left to right: E McMillan, W McMillan, Inspiration, The Pyramid, and Degenhardt. The route goes just right of the sun/shade line on the leftmost peak. The approach rappels start down a relatively solid corner just right of the low point on the left). Photo by Steph Abegg: First rappel into McMillan Creek cirque: Racking up before the first simul block: Marlin starting up the first simul block: Marlin at the top of pitch 1: Looking back partway across the pitch 2 traverse. There was a fixed two-pin anchor at the end of this traverse that may be that in the 2008 NWMJ "Erik starts the crux" photo: Looking down partway up pitch 3. This section had some blocks and flakes that looked ominous from below, but sounded and felt solid on closer inspection: The upper part of pitch 3. This was probably the most runout section of the route: Looking down the start of pitch 4: Marlin at the top of pitch 4: Marlin starting up pitch 5: Marlin starting up pitch 6: And navigating the roof on pitch 6: Starting pitch 7: And pitch 8, which should have been the last belayed pitch: Simuling in the schist band: Marlin leading the very-not-recommended lichen covered, loose pitch in the schist band. Go right before here, toward the E Mac col, to keep it scrambly. There was a fixed pin near his feet here, so we weren't the first to get suckered into it: Belaying on the summit. The buttress crest in this section is stacked, lichenous blocks that seem to overhang the impressively steep East face. You want nothing to do with the crest here: Setting up the first rappel out of the E Mac-W Mac gully: Impressive ambience the next morning, looking toward Azure lake from camp: Hiking out, looking toward Triumph: And a friend from the start of the schist band. It was still solidly placed and easily removed after, probably, 17 years (although could use some lube): Gear Notes: Modern gear made a huge difference on this route, especially microcams (compare the 2008 party's rack in the NWMJ pictures), microtrax simuling, and fix-and-following. We took a 50m lead and 65m tag line (we didn't haul), ~5 kbs/lost arrows, at least triples to fingers with offset aluminum and brass nuts, doubles to #1, single #2 and #3, and four microtraxions. Our smallest cams (purple C3 and green/#0 Z4) were used in several critical placements. Approach Notes: Goodell Creek to Terror Basin, then up slabs toward Little Mac.

Great TR with historic flavor. Such crisp photos. Sixteen cents!!!!

"Might as well win the whole fucking thing!" Gave me chills watching Cal hit #60 to chants of "MVP! MVP!"

That poetry.

I'm calling it. THIS is the year!

Mount Vernon! Ah, didn't know you used to live up this way....So you know how all over the place March can be. Often the good skiing hangs around for a bit so that is often my go-to at that time, but you never know....

Wow! Such a great story and achievement, but most of all it seems that this experience was very powerful for you. The best adventures are those ones that give you appreciation for the richness of life. I'm happy you got to experience this. Thanks for sharing here.

Thanks guys! Jason, are you in Bellingham? I went to college there so I'm pretty familiar with the trails. That was before I was into climbing anything beyond basic mountaineering and bouldering in the rock gym. Based on where we'll be I'm guessing a Sea to Sky mission will make the most sense if conditions allow. Though a view of Slesse and co in their winter attire would be incredible.

It’s all about belaying, not about the climbing.

It's not??!!

But, in reality, it might be best to just go up and ski some late season powder on the mountains close to town..... the links above will work if the ski conditions suck. The great thing about the mountains up here is that there is often something to do.... but not always! Bring your mountain bike for when the alpine/skiing is no good. I'd be happy to show you around Galbraith, or there are many techy north shore destinations for mtbing

Flora Mountain is another option

The Sea to Sky gondola is a way to access alpine terrain quickly and easily, and your family can enjoy the station/restaurant if they go. March could definitely be stormy and wet and there will be tons of snow up high, but it's something you might watch. Sky Pilot, Co-Pilot, and Habrich are all accessible from the lift in a day, depending on conditions. Internet suggests it's open year round.

Hey all, Long way off, but wanted to see if anyone had ideas... I will be visiting family in Vancouver BC in late March this coming year. I will have my family with me and can't do any overnight missions, but could conceivably do a full day or shorter. Never been in that area during that time of year before. Seems like it's probably going to be too wet for rock climbing, plus I've spent lots of time in Squamish over the years. Never done any winter alpine stuff in SW BC. Seems like there is some pretty easy access mini alpine, like the Lions, but it's low elevation and I am thinking it will probably be too warm? Obviously, conditions and weather will be highly variable and that will determine if I do anything, but does anyone have any objectives that I should have on my radar? Open to rock, ice/mixed, skiing, or even just a fun scramble. Cragging to alpine. What's been good in the past? TR links?

My most memorable shiver bivy! My wife now (jokingly) questions my true motivations for climbing, implying it’s all about the bivy…..

A memorable outing escorted by planning powerhouse that is JGAPLLC! Thanks Jason, awesome photos as usual!

Wow! Impressive human powered adventure! Riding a bike on 530 would have scared me!

Awesome! J-berg certainty delivers!

That note

thanks brudda!

You animal! So psyched to see this write up homie!

Rockin!

Right, I got pretty spoiled on both trips into there! It was a sweet to have the solo mountain experience and get surprised with some photos!