HRoark Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 Need leashes for by bent BPs. I've used the basic BD lockdowns before and liked them (simple). What do you guys like? Mostly alpine ice and some WI Quote
erik Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 lock down leashes the twisting one aint too bad either for mostly alpine Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 andreoids- even for alpine. everything else is just waste of your money... Quote
Rainier_Wolfscastle Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 BD lock down are good. New black material is thinner & slides easier than previous version. Petzl has a similar leash on there new Aztars. They look even better. BD twists are ok, but if you choose to use hands on rock instead of tool, and let the tool hang from leash/wrist, it will untwist. I don't think Androids are all the great for alpine. If you have the lower section fairly short, you can't reach the head of the tool for plunging without unclipping. If you keep the lower section longer so you can reach the head, it winds up being harder to grab the end of the clipper with your glove when you are trying to clip back in. However, for steep stuff the Androids are awesome. Just my .02 Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 Rainier_Wolfscastle said: BD lock down are good. New black material is thinner & slides easier than previous version. Petzl has a similar leash on there new Aztars. They look even better. BD twists are ok, but if you choose to use hands on rock instead of tool, and let the tool hang from leash/wrist, it will untwist. I don't think Androids are all the great for alpine. If you have the lower section fairly short, you can't reach the head of the tool for plunging without unclipping. If you keep the lower section longer so you can reach the head, it winds up being harder to grab the end of the clipper with your glove when you are trying to clip back in. However, for steep stuff the Androids are awesome. Just my .02 if you need to grab a head of the tool, why do you need your leash clipped anyway???it takes like 2 seconds for you to get in and out of leashes, which for mixed-alpine is critical. i used them for thew past 4 seasons. most of the hard core guys from canmore and calgary do too. after using pretty much everything else out there i am convinced this is the shit and at this point any other purchase is sub-standard and waste of your hard earned cash. these leashes will improve your ability to climb harder Quote
David_Parker Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 Dood, where have you been? EVERYONE is going leashless now!! Leashes are aid. Quote
Lambone Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 I don't know about "climbing harder," but the androids do give you alot more options. I like mine, I still think the lockdown is the best for alpine though. Perhaps a combo approach. Use and Android on whichever hand you place gear with the most, and a lockdown for the other one. The Twist leash (if they still even make it) and the Slider both suck ass. Don't get either one...If you let go of your tool the twist leash untwists, and the slider gets cloged with ice and frozen and won't work. The Lockdown holds your wrist better than anything else on the market, even the Android. I allways feel like I'm slipping out of my Androids. But I just got Vipers, so I'm pretty much done with leashes, unless the pitch is way above my limit. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 David_Parker said: Dood, where have you been? EVERYONE is going leashless now!! Leashes are aid. they are, i agree. i am getting my ergos pretty soon. on this token i am still not certain as far as leashless in alpine, since the north americam leading pack from canmore/banf is doing routes with leashes, so did Jaspers on No Siesta on Croz. it's kind of interesting to see what concensus is going to be on that one. Quote
cracked Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 glassgowkiss said: David_Parker said: Dood, where have you been? EVERYONE is going leashless now!! Leashes are aid. they are, i agree. i am getting my ergos pretty soon. on this token i am still not certain as far as leashless in alpine, since the north americam leading pack from canmore/banf is doing routes with leashes, so did Jaspers on No Siesta on Croz. it's kind of interesting to see what concensus is going to be on that one. Seems like so much Cascade alpine terrain is soft snow, you need some plungeable tool. This is just speculation, though. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 your plungeabe slopes http://aai.cc/program_slideshow.asp?program=63&startslide=5 Quote
layton Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 gosh, i didn't realise how lame your route was. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 yeah, chicken shit ascent. the line proper should go to the right.... Quote
cjain Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 I also went with the lockdowns. Nice and simple. Easy to remove a hand to put in a screw, etc. Quote
Rainier_Wolfscastle Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 Yeah, I've used the Androids for many seasons too, but they are not the best thing since sliced bread. Yes, you can unclip and grab the head of the tool, but that gives you one more scenario to possibly drop a tool. You may say that is unlikely, but shit happens. Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 After finding out how badly BD wanted to rape me for a pair of androids I made a pair in my shop and at the same time fixed the only beef I had with the production ones (they would not spin freely if they twisted a certain way and the balance was too high when the tool was hanging). My personal preference, but I rarely use my cobras for alpine. Quote
fern Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 you have plans/pictures of your home-made android leashes? Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 Handrawn plans, I can take pictures of them if you want but you'll need some serious machines to turn the stud and mill the plate out of 304... You'll also need a serious sewing machine to make the wrist loops. Quote
fern Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 serious machinery is no problem. I'd like to see the plans and the finished product if you have pics Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted October 17, 2003 Posted October 17, 2003 pm me your email I'll send out some pics Quote
layton Posted October 18, 2003 Posted October 18, 2003 this winter I'm gonna use a nice soft padded leash clipped to my tool head with a carabiner. any reasons why this is a bad idea? Quote
devilboy Posted October 18, 2003 Posted October 18, 2003 michael_layton said: this winter I'm gonna use a nice soft padded leash clipped to my tool head with a carabiner. any reasons why this is a bad idea? how about--clang, clang your tool will feel like shit, way off balance. consider the engineering that went into your tools. Quote
cracked Posted October 18, 2003 Posted October 18, 2003 devilboy said: michael_layton said: this winter I'm gonna use a nice soft padded leash clipped to my tool head with a carabiner. any reasons why this is a bad idea? how about--clang, clang your tool will feel like shit, way off balance. consider the engineering that went into your tools. He was being serious. Quote
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