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#643064 - 02/01/07 01:07 PM Oregon Bolt Replacement *****
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff!

Smith Rock State Park:

Monkey Face - East Face
2 anchor bolts atop P2
w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07

Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route:
2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4
w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07

Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde:
4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge
Jan 07

Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle:
4 rap anchors
w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06

Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar:
2 anchor bolts
w/ Jake Hector Oct 06

Menagere Wilderness:

Panorama Point - Essential Reality:
4 lead bolts on P1
w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06

North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route:
Most lead and anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route:
Most lead and all anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

Turkey Monster - Dod Route:
1 belay bolt atop P2
w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05

Wolf Rock:

Barad-Dur:
Many lead and anchor bolts
done by CF & JR Fall '06






Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.


Edited by corvallisclimb (02/10/07 09:27 PM)

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#643070 - 02/01/07 01:14 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Good work....


_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#643136 - 02/01/07 02:18 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
And mods mabey you could make this a sticky since its kidna an ongoing project?

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#643594 - 02/02/07 03:01 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Moof Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 106
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
If you need a bolting slave, give a hollar. I've probably replaced about a half dozen bolts in various places (squamish, cosumnes river gorge, don't remember where else). I'd be up for trading off hammer duty, being a belay slave, or whatever. I've got some SS fixe hangers and SS rawl's could also chip in. I didn't get to do some planned bolt replacement before I moved away...

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#646504 - 02/10/07 05:18 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Moof]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
gave the monkey some love... will return to work on last bolt ladder pitch when its not raining

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#646508 - 02/10/07 05:49 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Billy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/12/01
Posts: 229
TRs: 11 Photos: 30
Loc: Slinky Factory
Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........

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#646512 - 02/10/07 06:13 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Billy]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: Billy
Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........


funny you mention it thats in the plans for the next month or so, then possibly abraxas.

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#646552 - 02/10/07 09:16 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
JBD Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/02/03
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Central Oregon
I upgraded a number of the anchor bolts on Abaxas a few years back... probably 8 years ago or so. From the top down new anchors at all locations except the anchor at top of pitch one.
1/2" x 4-5" with Metolius rap hangers and some with welded chain links from Dan Carlson (orig. owner of Redpoint).
At the time I was intending to clean up the entire route with the idea that it deserves to get more traffic as the rock is quite good and the exposure is superb. I may have added some protection bolts at fixed pin locations but cannot recall all the details at this time. Did a bit of cleaning and changed the anchor location for the big pitch up the Dogleg crack. It is now at a natural stance at very start of this wild pitch. Did not replace the hanging belay part way up Dogleg as that would not be used in a free ascent and could problaby be removed.
From what I remember a quick scrub and maybe another bolt or two and this would be quite possibly the best multi-pitch route in the park outside of the Monk.

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#648667 - 02/16/07 11:55 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: JBD]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
East Face anchors before:


East Face anchors after:



Note: All excess hardaware was properly removed, though not shown in the picture.

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#656383 - 03/12/07 02:52 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith:

New Testiment Slab

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 3 anchors bolts W Mike Layton Feb 07

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 4 protection bolts W Ian Roth Mar 07

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#656395 - 03/12/07 03:21 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX
Nice work Tyler!

Consider replacing the belay bolts on Free Lunch... the first pitch anchor is okay but top of 2, 3 and 4 could use an upgrade. Great route that would be even better with new hardware!

Speaking of PLW I believe one of the two bolts at the top of pitch 2 is still missing on the farmer route also...

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#656399 - 03/12/07 03:43 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: John Frieh]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
John- Thank you! I thought that was you up there yesterday, I was going to yell but didnt want to sound like a dumb ass. Let me know if you want to get on free lunch again sometime soon we could fix up those anchors.

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#656403 - 03/12/07 04:33 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Winter Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2375
TRs: 20 Photos: 188
Loc: freshiez!
Guys, thanks a lot for following through on this.
_________________________
chriswinter.blogspot.com

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#664475 - 03/31/07 09:40 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Winter]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3576
TRs: 74 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
I have hung on enough of that crap to REALLY appreciate the work you guys did, thanks for making those adventure routes accessable
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#664608 - 04/01/07 08:39 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: wayne]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom


smith

Revelations/Irrevernece
3 Anchor bolts
W Mike Latyton 2/07

Revelations/Irrevernece
4 Lead bolts
W Ian Roth 3/07

menagerie

Rooster Rock - Original Route
1 Lead bolt
4/1/07


whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.


Edited by corvallisclimb (04/02/07 12:25 PM)

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#669608 - 04/16/07 01:01 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
retired Offline
member

Registered: 01/16/03
Posts: 158
TRs: 4 Photos: 49
Loc: White Salmon WA.
Good work Tyler...just talked to Greg Barnes at Red Rocks...He was wonderding what we had been up to with the asca project and I filled him in. See you soon.

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#674847 - 04/29/07 02:10 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: retired]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
smith rock state park

Pheonix Buttress - Carbid
2 Anchor bolts
W Mark D 4/07

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#674856 - 04/29/07 03:28 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Nice work fellas! Way to go Mark!
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#676333 - 05/02/07 11:06 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1381
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
I talked to some climbers at smith last week who said there was a SUPER loose anchor bolt on a buttress just to the left of asterix(if you are facing east) on the west side crags. I dont remember what they said the route name was but I remember them saying the wall had something related to "snakes" in the name. Does anyone know what route(or at least the wall) I am jabbering about?
_________________________
"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

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#676335 - 05/02/07 11:10 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: 111]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Snake Roof?
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#676439 - 05/02/07 02:04 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
hemp22 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/28/04
Posts: 430
TRs: 2 Photos: 65
Loc: OR
they might have been talking about something on either Snake Rock or Angel Flight Buttress - those 2 walls are both basically the same area, and are not far to the left of the pass when facing east.
Don't know which route they'd be talking about, but there are a few new-ish moderate sport routes to the right of split image that see a lot of traffic these days - might be one of those.

Edit: I think the newer routes are listed in the red addendum


Edited by hemp22 (05/02/07 02:06 PM)

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#687641 - 05/26/07 12:54 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: hemp22]
pointy Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/14/05
Posts: 13
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: At large
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

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#687659 - 05/26/07 04:37 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: pointy]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Originally Posted By: pointy
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.


I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#687690 - 05/26/07 09:49 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: kevbone
Originally Posted By: pointy
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.


I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.


I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.

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#687691 - 05/26/07 09:51 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Rooster Rock
Callis SE face

4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)

W Jim Anglin May 07

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#687712 - 05/27/07 08:31 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
You rock Tyler! Keep up the good work.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#687763 - 05/27/07 03:31 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Offline
TUFF GIRL

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 9637
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Muffingtown
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Menagerie

Rooster Rock
Callis SE face

4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)

W Jim Anglin May 07


Awsome work guys!!!! i am can't really climb right now but if you need a belay slave i am IN and beers on me!!!

xoxoxo
Muffin
_________________________
"they will get over it or they will die freaked out"- Sunshine

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#690296 - 06/04/07 10:57 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer]
texplorer Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/10/01
Posts: 1955
TRs: 2 Photos: 85
Loc: Sacramento
Excellent work. The climbing world needs more stewards like you guys and girls.
_________________________
The best climber in the world is the one with the biggest horsecock.

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#699433 - 06/30/07 07:39 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wolf Rock

Coligula

1 Anchor bolt

W Jim Anglin Jun 07

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#715726 - 08/21/07 03:29 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Irish Guy Offline
n00b

Registered: 03/21/07
Posts: 38
TRs: 1 Photos: 16
Loc: Portland, OR
Thanks for the replacements! I was over at Rooster a while back and saw the new hardware. Heading down to Smith in a few days, and will be glad to see the new bolts!

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#716446 - 08/23/07 10:32 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Irish Guy]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Hen Rock - Winter Sunshine/SE Slab
2 Anchor bolts

Lizard Head - The Lizard Scale
1 Anchor bolt

W Catherine Power 8/07

Note: I also replaced both rap slings on the Lizards Head and Camels Hump

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#716477 - 08/24/07 07:21 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Have I told you how much you kick ass?
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#716557 - 08/24/07 12:16 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
thanks for keeping the stoke alive kev!

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#719806 - 09/02/07 09:38 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Royal Arch - B&M Route
1 lead bolt on P2

Boulder Dome - South Face
2 Anchor bolts

W/ Brian Claytor 9/07

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#782899 - 03/17/08 12:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Marsupials Traverse/The Opossum
2 Anchors bolts (on the final rappel)

W/ Kip Beckwith 3/08

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#782902 - 03/17/08 12:39 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
 Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb


Marsupials Traverse/The Opossum
2 Anchors bolts (on the final rappel)


Thank God.....
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#783998 - 03/20/08 02:24 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
rocky_joe Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/25/08
Posts: 510
TRs: 16 Photos: 72
Loc: High Horse Mountain
thanks for all those shiny new bolts, it's greatly appreciated. does anybody know how the bolts are at Hill Creek Spires?
_________________________
On a never ending quest to not pay retail.

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#795999 - 05/07/08 11:12 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: rocky_joe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
With the help of Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, Mike Stoger and I, I think we replaced over 120 different bolts at Smith Rock over the past week. To name a few, Caffine Free, A Phone Call From Satan, Ship Wreck, everything over on the Pheonix Wall, Five Easy Peices, Lichen It, Sunshine Dihederal where all worked on or fully replaced. Our goal was to hit the high use areas where theres lots of wear and tear. Thanks everyone for all your help and donations to ASCA(safeclimbing.org)

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#796009 - 05/07/08 11:37 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
jlag Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/18/03
Posts: 428
TRs: 5 Photos: 14
Loc: posy
Thanks Tyler, you da man.


JL

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#796015 - 05/07/08 11:49 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: jlag]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
Amazing amount of effort! real generous of you guys to put in this much time & effort - a great thanks!!

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#796896 - 05/09/08 11:57 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Old Man Rock

Dilleys Delight

1 lead bolt

W Greg Orton & Harold Hall May 08

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#797221 - 05/12/08 11:14 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
many thanks to you guys for this one - it's a great route!

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#797477 - 05/13/08 12:00 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Its neat to see that its still being climbed........
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

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#797491 - 05/13/08 06:11 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: OldManRock]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
OldManRock-

How about you tell us a story about the FA? Please!

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#802125 - 05/31/08 09:17 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: rocky_joe]
Christo Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/06/05
Posts: 2
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
To rockyjoe ,
As to the bolts at Hills creek spires ; having established
20 of the routes there with my bro peter and Randy Rimby, I
can say that the ankor and route bolts are bomber . check it
out ! christo

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#804614 - 06/08/08 06:57 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Christo]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Replaced anchors and lead bolts at Broughtons Bluff - 6/07/08

First pitch on Gandolfs Grip
Classic Crack
Crux bolt on Red Eye (first pitch)

By me and Ben Priestley


Crux bolt Hard Body

By Jeff (hemp22) and Tony Holmes.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#804919 - 06/09/08 10:21 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
hemp22 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/28/04
Posts: 430
TRs: 2 Photos: 65
Loc: OR
Much thanks to Kevin & Ben for the bolting know-how.
And much thanks to Tony, the Access Fund & ASCA for the hardware.

Shoot me a PM when you guys want to get back out there and clean up some of the other manky bolts - I'm up for helping out again.

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#804940 - 06/09/08 11:07 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: hemp22]
ivan Online   sickness
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17225
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
i'm curious, what was wrong w/ the bolts on gandalf's grip? the anchor certainly was old, but the two bolts on the traverse seemed totally fine - how did you go about determining the need to replace them?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#804946 - 06/09/08 11:15 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Ivan. We replaced the anchor only.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#804948 - 06/09/08 11:22 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
ivan Online   sickness
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17225
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
 Originally Posted By: kevbone
Ivan. We replaced the anchor only.

reckon it'll be nice to have something that looks new, but was the old one bad? i kinda liked how it looked/felt like a damn ship anchor!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#804952 - 06/09/08 11:28 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Well its still there. I did not remove the history. Simply added a new one in a better position.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#804957 - 06/09/08 11:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
ivan Online   sickness
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17225
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
ah nice - a menu of anchors! kinda like the upper anchors of jensen's ridge!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#810035 - 06/25/08 12:31 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
pierceadams Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/18/08
Posts: 13
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
good looking out for the safety of others and many thanks for using personally bought gear.

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#810212 - 06/25/08 01:06 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: pierceadams]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 366
TRs: 8 Photos: 260
If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped.

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#810659 - 06/26/08 12:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Rooster Rock
2 Anchor bolts on the summit.

PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

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#810675 - 06/26/08 12:44 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Is that bad that someone added bolts to the top?
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#810682 - 06/26/08 12:52 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
yeah, convenience anchors in the wilderness suck!


Edited by corvallisclimb (06/26/08 09:06 PM)
Edit Reason: i suck

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#851897 - 11/18/08 02:42 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

The Bridge
The Newt Route
1 anchor bolt atop P2
1 lead bolt on P3

W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08


and thats how you drill


hidden single bolt belay


Edited by corvallisclimb (11/18/08 03:14 PM)

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#865633 - 02/04/09 10:36 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
rocky_joe Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/25/08
Posts: 510
TRs: 16 Photos: 72
Loc: High Horse Mountain
The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.
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#877619 - 04/16/09 03:37 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: rocky_joe]
Ishmael Offline
member

Registered: 04/05/07
Posts: 157
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Pacific Ocean
Thanks for the replacement work. I used some of those bolts on a trip to Smith this spring...

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#878205 - 04/21/09 04:47 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Ishmael]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Twin Pillar's:
New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

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#878249 - 04/22/09 08:22 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
did the main pillar go free?

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#878310 - 04/22/09 12:57 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness
Main Pillar - Campfire Route?
1 Lead Bolt
1 Anchor Bolt

W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07


Originally Posted By: fgw
did the main pillar go free?


ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!

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#878319 - 04/22/09 02:23 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness
Main Pillar - Campfire Route?
1 Lead Bolt
1 Anchor Bolt

W Brian Schmitz 4/19/07


Originally Posted By: fgw
did the main pillar go free?


ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!


the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

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#878330 - 04/22/09 03:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?

[img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/543101217_9ae9d45848.jpg?v=0[/img]

edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.


Edited by fgw (04/22/09 03:13 PM)

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#878334 - 04/22/09 03:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove.

did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

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#878422 - 04/22/09 09:53 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: fgw
thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?



edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.


theres some more text after the .jpg

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#881657 - 05/13/09 02:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Diheadreals - Methuselas Column
5 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney
1 Lead Bolt

Diheadreals - Bunny Face
6 Hangers
2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.

Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew
2 Anchors Bolts

Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice
3 Lead Bolts

All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09

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#881700 - 05/13/09 04:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
appreciate your hard work and time, tyler.

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#884196 - 05/28/09 09:40 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Red Wall - Helter Skelter
6 Anchor bolts
4 Lead bolts

with Wilbur Nazarien 5/26/09

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#884208 - 05/28/09 10:30 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Good old wilbur.....thanks tyler.
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#888976 - 06/19/09 01:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wolf Rock

Sport Arch - Right Corner Arete
2 Anchor bolts
6 lead bolts

with John Rich 6/16/09

acctually i added a bolt and moved the anchor up 10 feet to a nice stance so now its a little bit longer

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#888981 - 06/19/09 01:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Online   sickness
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17225
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
never underestimate the enthusiasm of a man w/ a drill smile
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War is Peace
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#897587 - 08/02/09 10:20 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Jay Chute Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/28/07
Posts: 43
TRs: 1 Photos: 33
Anyone interested in re-bolting at Carver. It needs serious help.

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#897625 - 08/03/09 07:45 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Jay Chute]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Which climbs?
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#897633 - 08/03/09 08:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
MatthewS Offline
n00b

Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 47
TRs: 1 Photos: 13
Loc: Boston, MA
Given how many people are always hanging on it, replacing the first bolt of Smerk wouldn't be a bad idea. The two anchors on top of the Chemistry slab are also pretty lousy.

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#897635 - 08/03/09 08:38 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: MatthewS]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Great idea. I dont even think the first bolt on smerk is a real bolt. More like bent metal that someone made in there garage.
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#897729 - 08/03/09 04:07 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
BillA Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 433
TRs: 4 Photos: 18
Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.

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#901162 - 08/17/09 12:51 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

The Sphinx
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

The Pharoh
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

W/ Catherine Power Aug 09

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#903766 - 08/28/09 02:15 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

Smith Rock

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges
14 lead bolts
6 anchor bolts

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09

Most thanks for this goes to Jim for hiking up most of the gear and ropes. And fixing a line so I could jug up and discover the anchor had been half chewed through by a rat while I bounced around on it. Now go get some this is an incredible route.

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#903784 - 08/28/09 04:02 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 433
TRs: 4 Photos: 18
Yeah dude, thanks for doing that! Now twitter that shit braaaah!

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#904108 - 08/31/09 09:31 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie Wilderness

Boulder Dome - 10b finish option
1 lead bolt

W/ Brian Gilbert August 09

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#904111 - 08/31/09 09:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
tup
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#908274 - 09/17/09 01:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie Wilderness

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
2 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Brian Gilbert Aug 09

and while we where climbing that route Chris rapped in and...

The Bridge - The Newt Route
3 Lead Bolts
4 Lead Hangers
3 Anchor Hangers
1 Added lead bolt to P3(since its his FA)

By Chris Fralick

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#908276 - 09/17/09 01:29 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
oh whoops then I came back a couple days later by my self and did a little more work on the bridge...

Menagerie Wilderness
The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
1 Lead Bolt
2 Anchor bolts
removed the offending tree during the mid route rap and the bush wich gets in the way linking P3 and P4

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#911685 - 09/30/09 09:56 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie Wilderness
South Rabbit Ear - West Face
1 lead bolt on P2 (fat 1/2" hand drilled!)

w/ Wilbur Nazarian & Mai Hyman Sept 09

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#911825 - 09/30/09 05:47 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 433
TRs: 4 Photos: 18
Carver Cliff

About a month ago I replaced the first two bolts on Smerk and the anchor at the top of the crack to the right (the anchor most people traverse over to when they climb Smerk).

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#920576 - 11/09/09 05:21 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
beaconben Offline
member

Registered: 03/15/04
Posts: 124
TRs: 1 Photos: 12
Loc: Portland, OR
I have not read this thread for a while. You rock Tyler. It is awesome that you and others are doing this. I can't wait to get on Santiam Hwy Ledges.

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#941712 - 02/14/10 10:36 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: beaconben]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock State Park

Diamonds and Rust Buttress - Slow Train (5.7R)
8 lead bolts 2 anchor bolts

w/ Catherine Power and John Rich 2/13/10


This is a cool adventure route that should get some traffic with some new bolts. A long 150' pitch to a single rope rap or continue up Diamonds and Rust for two more pitches.

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#941725 - 02/15/10 07:51 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
letsroll Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 1176
TRs: 9 Photos: 20
Loc: In the shadows shadow of Snibb...
thanks for the update. Need to get out that way an check it out.

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#945001 - 02/28/10 08:22 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: letsroll]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wolf Rock

Barad Dur
2 anchor bolts on P1
3 lead bolts on P1

w/ Chris Fralick and Dave Trepp 2/28/10

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#945569 - 03/03/10 10:15 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

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#945588 - 03/03/10 11:14 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Online   sickness
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17225
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
dude! seriously, do you have a regifting plan? i can find a nice new home for quite a few of those guys! smile
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War is Peace
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#945589 - 03/03/10 11:40 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Those slings have at lease two or three more seasons left in them. Say 2 bucks a sling? lmao

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#945996 - 03/06/10 12:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

The Wombat - CL Concerto
4 Anchor Bolts
1 Lead Bolt

W/ Bill Amos 2/2010

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#980474 - 09/27/10 08:34 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Challengers Lost Pinnacle
3 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Adam Cox 5/2010

Menagerie Wilderness

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
1 Lead Bolt
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Joe Richardson 8/2010

Royal Arch - B&M Route
2 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Jonathan Shrock 9/2010

Royal Arch - Telegraph Road
4 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

9/2010

Royal Arch - Wintergreen Chasam/Rap Route
2 Anchor Bolts

Wolf Rock

Black Kettle
7 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Chris Fralick 7/2010

Jay Peterson Route
6 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Jake Ringold 6/2010

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#981241 - 10/04/10 08:10 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
jmay Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/03/10
Posts: 1
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
sounds like you have knowledge of the sport routes at Wolf. Can you share your beta? went out there to explore with the Willamette guidebook, many new routes??? what are they? want to get out there to climb. thanks. Jack

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#981254 - 10/04/10 09:37 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: eldiente]
letsroll Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 1176
TRs: 9 Photos: 20
Loc: In the shadows shadow of Snibb...
interesting. Been on my list for a while. Guess it might be time to head down and explore a bit and see what kind of trouble I can get into smile

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#981289 - 10/04/10 01:02 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: jmay]
justinp Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/16/08
Posts: 413
TRs: 0 Photos: 264
Loc: 3Rivers
Originally Posted By: jmay
sounds like you have knowledge of the sport routes at Wolf. Can you share your beta? went out there to explore with the Willamette guidebook, many new routes??? what are they? want to get out there to climb. thanks. Jack


He's on LF down in the valley so ur betta will have to wait.

I have climbed out there a few times.... I will say the place really sucks! IMHO no one should ever consider going to that choss pile smile
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#985382 - 10/31/10 01:06 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1381
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb



Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?
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#985439 - 10/31/10 09:34 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: 111]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: 111
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb



Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?


Ya Rooster or Hen or any one of those pinnacles. The classic Anglin budget anchor sans hangers. Jim's budget hangers pictured to the left. Two orange one blue.

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#985806 - 11/02/10 03:11 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: 111]
cjw250 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/27/09
Posts: 73
TRs: 1 Photos: 164
Not sure if it's worth mentioning, but I replaced the first bolt off Bohn St. on the Monkey Face bolt ladder with a glue-in and removed a couple worthless old ones near the belay. In addition, I also removed an old one on the diving board and replaced that with a new glue-in that, coupled with the one decent expansion bolt, should make a decent belay for tyros and slacklining and such. I know a lot more need to be done on the bolt ladder, but I haven't gotten to them yet.

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#985816 - 11/02/10 03:49 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Off_White Offline

Capricious Warlord

Registered: 04/04/02
Posts: 9266
TRs: 22 Photos: 363
Loc: Tenino
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Originally Posted By: 111
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb



Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?


Ya Rooster or Hen or any one of those pinnacles. The classic Anglin budget anchor sans hangers. Jim's budget hangers pictured to the left. Two orange one blue.


I'm pretty sure you mean the other left...
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#1008211 - 03/05/11 02:35 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: cjw250]
Minskin Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/27/09
Posts: 2
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland OR
Originally Posted By: cjw250
Not sure if it's worth mentioning, but I replaced the first bolt off Bohn St. on the Monkey Face bolt ladder with a glue-in and removed a couple worthless old ones near the belay. In addition, I also removed an old one on the diving board and replaced that with a new glue-in that, coupled with the one decent expansion bolt, should make a decent belay for tyros and slacklining and such. I know a lot more need to be done on the bolt ladder, but I haven't gotten to them yet.


That first bolt scared the crap out of me, thank you. tup

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#1011112 - 03/26/11 10:45 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Minskin]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock State Park

The Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverese
3 Anchor Bolts
4 Lead Bolts

W/ Bryan Schmitz March 2011

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#1011590 - 03/30/11 03:22 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
beaconben Offline
member

Registered: 03/15/04
Posts: 124
TRs: 1 Photos: 12
Loc: Portland, OR
Thanks guys. I have always wanted to climb that spire. now hopefully it will actually be enjoyable.

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#1015972 - 05/08/11 10:59 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Angel Flight Buttress - Original Route
3 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

Angel Flight Buttress - High Sage
2 Anchor Bolts

Angel Flight Buttress - Follies of Youth
2 Lead Bolts

Angel Flight Buttress - Youthfull Indescretion
2 Anchors Bolts

W/ Jim Ablao, May 7th, 2011



Jim covered in rock dust but still smiling!

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#1033580 - 09/06/11 11:11 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1381
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
Tyler, we need to find someone in the ME dept who has access to a breaker. I'd love to see how strong some of that stuff is... Anyone on CC here have a hookup?
_________________________
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#1033636 - 09/07/11 12:37 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Ya Ian would be cool to see breaking strengths. I'll get some hangers pull tested next time I have a chance. Would be more interesting to see the breaking strengths of the bolts though, but since the weakest ones break before pulling them out of the rock it would be impossible to test the strengths of 30 year old bolts. I find it to be amazing what looks like crap can be totally solid and what looks solid can be total crap. What ever you do don't trust old stud bolts. These are nothing but crap. How do you break a solid rod of metal? You score it! Stud bolts are just that! The past couple weeks I've been replacing some of Jim Anglin's stud bolts on some of his routes from the early 80's in the Menagerie. He placed two different kinds, I believe a zinc plated, then regular old solid steel. The ones that are zinc plated look totally new by looks but no joke I snapped %90 of them with one light blow of the hammer. The solid steel ones that looked totally rusty and like crap I could not even sheer two of them and have to come back with a chisel and hacksaw. In my personal opinion stud bolts are total crap. Cheap yes, crap yes. Even the new ones I think are crap, my friend bought a box of 50 1/2" stainless studs to use at Smith. We used them on some routes on the Smith Rock Group and Red Wall. Due to being stainless you have to use some sort of lock-tite or something to keep the nut from loosening. We didn't, and now probably 45 of those 50 all have loose nuts and I've heard one of the routes is now missing a hanger or two. Requiring me to go back up and fix all that crap since Mr. Mark D is not around to help. I've sheared the few newer 3/8" stainless studs I've removed too with out much effort. Now this is just my opinion because I'm sure there are plenty of people that will tell me RAWLs are crap. To each his own!

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#1033643 - 09/07/11 02:09 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
JosephH Online   content
sprayer

Registered: 08/11/04
Posts: 5603
TRs: 1 Photos: 477
Loc: PDX
Yeah, I guess I'm one of the latter and don't care for the 5-pc bolts at all. They definitely turn into a corroded, spinning mess pretty damn fast - at least on this side of the Cascades. I'm down with SS studs and do use locktite(red) on them. Wouldn't consider ever going back to 5pc's. As you said, to each his own.

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#1047976 - 12/15/11 12:35 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
wslavens Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/07/11
Posts: 17
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Great work! We all appreciate your contribution to the climbing community. I was curious as to where you buy the bolts. I really like the Powers bolts and I would like to continue to use those but I don't want to pay shipping for a box of bolts. I live in Portland, do you know where I can buy local in bulk?

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#1047981 - 12/15/11 01:04 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Hey there, we get the bolts donated to us by the ASCA. Feel free to check out www.safeclimbing.org for some more info. And if your inclined you can donate some money and specify where for wink. As far as buying bolts, I've never bought bolts from a retail store so I would say the cheapest you'll find would be online even with shipping.

Cheers!

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#1067255 - 05/06/12 08:30 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie Wilderness

Panorama Point - Blue Duck
4 Anchor Bolts
W/ Steve Elder, October 2011

Panorama Point - More Bolts Than Balls
2 Anchor Bolts
W/ Steve Elder & Bill Amos, October 2011

Chicken Rock - Rawhide
2 Anchor Bolts
W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012

Chicken Rock - Chicken Legs
2 Anchor Bolts
W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012

Hen Rock - Poached
2 Anchor Bolts
W/ Chris Fralick, 5/6/2012


The chain anchor for Rawhide was pulled and replaced with normal bolts with no rings. To rappel climb over the summit to the Chicken Legs anchors and rappel.

The tree anchor for Poached/Autum Reigns/South Crack etc. died so now there is a bolted anchor on the ledge 10' above the tree and to the right. A much better location and more convenient for top roping the routes below.

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#1067272 - 05/06/12 10:54 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wolf Rock

Big Arch 5.7 Corner Route
3 Anchor Bolts
W/ Brian Gilbert, August 2011

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#1101230 - 03/25/13 01:09 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15441
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

Smith Rock

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges
14 lead bolts
6 anchor bolts

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09




Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#1101237 - 03/25/13 03:38 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
matt_warfield Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/17/02
Posts: 1633
TRs: 8 Photos: 2
Loc: seattle
Second the tup for ASCA and all local developers (including Smith) that REALLY understand their local rock. Some post, some don't, but go find them and listen carefully.


Edited by matt_warfield (03/25/13 03:40 PM)
_________________________
I do what I want and take what I get

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#1123246 - 04/21/14 12:45 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
lightnfast Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/19/10
Posts: 24
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: Portland, OR
I'm very interested in helping with the replacement of anchors in the Pacific NW. I've been climbing for 13 years and want to do my part to payback the climbing community.

I'm looking for someone who is actively involved in this process so that I can learn the correct methods for such work.

I have a strong background in acccess issues, and understand that anchor/bolt replacement can be a very complicated issue and am more than willing to do my homework before heading out and causing a ruckus.

Shoot me an email at lightnfast@gmail.com if you have anything scheduled around Portland and would be willing to share their knowledge and have a helping hand. This goes for route development/cleaning as well.

Thanks,
Scott Robertson
_________________________
I'm just as full of sh*t as you, but I try not to be.

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