Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff!

Smith Rock State Park:

Monkey Face - East Face
2 anchor bolts atop P2
w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07

Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route:
2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4
w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07

Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde:
4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge
Jan 07

Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle:
4 rap anchors
w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06

Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar:
2 anchor bolts
w/ Jake Hector Oct 06

Menagere Wilderness:

Panorama Point - Essential Reality:
4 lead bolts on P1
w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06

North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route:
Most lead and anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route:
Most lead and all anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

Turkey Monster - Dod Route:
1 belay bolt atop P2
w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05

Wolf Rock:

Barad-Dur:
Many lead and anchor bolts
done by CF & JR Fall '06






Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.

Good work....

And mods mabey you could make this a sticky since its kidna an ongoing project?

If you need a bolting slave, give a hollar. I've probably replaced about a half dozen bolts in various places (squamish, cosumnes river gorge, don't remember where else). I'd be up for trading off hammer duty, being a belay slave, or whatever. I've got some SS fixe hangers and SS rawl's could also chip in. I didn't get to do some planned bolt replacement before I moved away...

gave the monkey some love... will return to work on last bolt ladder pitch when its not raining

Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........

funny you mention it thats in the plans for the next month or so, then possibly abraxas.

I upgraded a number of the anchor bolts on Abaxas a few years back... probably 8 years ago or so. From the top down new anchors at all locations except the anchor at top of pitch one.
1/2" x 4-5" with Metolius rap hangers and some with welded chain links from Dan Carlson (orig. owner of Redpoint).
At the time I was intending to clean up the entire route with the idea that it deserves to get more traffic as the rock is quite good and the exposure is superb. I may have added some protection bolts at fixed pin locations but cannot recall all the details at this time. Did a bit of cleaning and changed the anchor location for the big pitch up the Dogleg crack. It is now at a natural stance at very start of this wild pitch. Did not replace the hanging belay part way up Dogleg as that would not be used in a free ascent and could problaby be removed.
From what I remember a quick scrub and maybe another bolt or two and this would be quite possibly the best multi-pitch route in the park outside of the Monk.

East Face anchors before:


East Face anchors after:



Note: All excess hardaware was properly removed, though not shown in the picture.

Smith:

New Testiment Slab

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 3 anchors bolts W Mike Layton Feb 07

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 4 protection bolts W Ian Roth Mar 07

Nice work Tyler!

Consider replacing the belay bolts on Free Lunch... the first pitch anchor is okay but top of 2, 3 and 4 could use an upgrade. Great route that would be even better with new hardware!

Speaking of PLW I believe one of the two bolts at the top of pitch 2 is still missing on the farmer route also...

John- Thank you! I thought that was you up there yesterday, I was going to yell but didnt want to sound like a dumb ass. Let me know if you want to get on free lunch again sometime soon we could fix up those anchors.

Guys, thanks a lot for following through on this.

I have hung on enough of that crap to REALLY appreciate the work you guys did, thanks for making those adventure routes accessable

unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom


smith

Revelations/Irrevernece
3 Anchor bolts
W Mike Latyton 2/07

Revelations/Irrevernece
4 Lead bolts
W Ian Roth 3/07

menagerie

Rooster Rock - Original Route
1 Lead bolt
4/1/07


whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.

Good work Tyler...just talked to Greg Barnes at Red Rocks...He was wonderding what we had been up to with the asca project and I filled him in. See you soon.

smith rock state park

Pheonix Buttress - Carbid
2 Anchor bolts
W Mark D 4/07

Nice work fellas! Way to go Mark!

I talked to some climbers at smith last week who said there was a SUPER loose anchor bolt on a buttress just to the left of asterix(if you are facing east) on the west side crags. I dont remember what they said the route name was but I remember them saying the wall had something related to "snakes" in the name. Does anyone know what route(or at least the wall) I am jabbering about?

Snake Roof?

they might have been talking about something on either Snake Rock or Angel Flight Buttress - those 2 walls are both basically the same area, and are not far to the left of the pass when facing east.
Don't know which route they'd be talking about, but there are a few new-ish moderate sport routes to the right of split image that see a lot of traffic these days - might be one of those.

Edit: I think the newer routes are listed in the red addendum

How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.

I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.

Menagerie

Rooster Rock
Callis SE face

4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)

W Jim Anglin May 07

You rock Tyler! Keep up the good work.

Awsome work guys!!!! i am can't really climb right now but if you need a belay slave i am IN and beers on me!!!

xoxoxo
Muffin

Excellent work. The climbing world needs more stewards like you guys and girls.

Wolf Rock

Coligula

1 Anchor bolt

W Jim Anglin Jun 07

Thanks for the replacements! I was over at Rooster a while back and saw the new hardware. Heading down to Smith in a few days, and will be glad to see the new bolts!

Menagerie

Hen Rock - Winter Sunshine/SE Slab
2 Anchor bolts

Lizard Head - The Lizard Scale
1 Anchor bolt

W Catherine Power 8/07

Note: I also replaced both rap slings on the Lizards Head and Camels Hump

Have I told you how much you kick ass?

thanks for keeping the stoke alive kev!

Menagerie

Royal Arch - B&M Route
1 lead bolt on P2

Boulder Dome - South Face
2 Anchor bolts

W/ Brian Claytor 9/07

Smith Rock

Marsupials Traverse/The Opossum
2 Anchors bolts (on the final rappel)

W/ Kip Beckwith 3/08

Thank God.....

thanks for all those shiny new bolts, it's greatly appreciated. does anybody know how the bolts are at Hill Creek Spires?

With the help of Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, Mike Stoger and I, I think we replaced over 120 different bolts at Smith Rock over the past week. To name a few, Caffine Free, A Phone Call From Satan, Ship Wreck, everything over on the Pheonix Wall, Five Easy Peices, Lichen It, Sunshine Dihederal where all worked on or fully replaced. Our goal was to hit the high use areas where theres lots of wear and tear. Thanks everyone for all your help and donations to ASCA(safeclimbing.org)

Thanks Tyler, you da man.


JL

Amazing amount of effort! real generous of you guys to put in this much time & effort - a great thanks!!

Old Man Rock

Dilleys Delight

1 lead bolt

W Greg Orton & Harold Hall May 08

many thanks to you guys for this one - it's a great route!

Its neat to see that its still being climbed........

OldManRock-

How about you tell us a story about the FA? Please!

To rockyjoe ,
As to the bolts at Hills creek spires ; having established
20 of the routes there with my bro peter and Randy Rimby, I
can say that the ankor and route bolts are bomber . check it
out ! christo

Replaced anchors and lead bolts at Broughtons Bluff - 6/07/08

First pitch on Gandolfs Grip
Classic Crack
Crux bolt on Red Eye (first pitch)

By me and Ben Priestley


Crux bolt Hard Body

By Jeff (hemp22) and Tony Holmes.

Much thanks to Kevin & Ben for the bolting know-how.
And much thanks to Tony, the Access Fund & ASCA for the hardware.

Shoot me a PM when you guys want to get back out there and clean up some of the other manky bolts - I'm up for helping out again.

i'm curious, what was wrong w/ the bolts on gandalf's grip? the anchor certainly was old, but the two bolts on the traverse seemed totally fine - how did you go about determining the need to replace them?

Ivan. We replaced the anchor only.

reckon it'll be nice to have something that looks new, but was the old one bad? i kinda liked how it looked/felt like a damn ship anchor!

Well its still there. I did not remove the history. Simply added a new one in a better position.

ah nice - a menu of anchors! kinda like the upper anchors of jensen's ridge!

good looking out for the safety of others and many thanks for using personally bought gear.

If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped.

Menagerie

Rooster Rock
2 Anchor bolts on the summit.

PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

Is that bad that someone added bolts to the top?

yeah, convenience anchors in the wilderness suck!

Menagerie

The Bridge
The Newt Route
1 anchor bolt atop P2
1 lead bolt on P3

W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08


and thats how you drill


hidden single bolt belay

The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.

Thanks for the replacement work. I used some of those bolts on a trip to Smith this spring...

Twin Pillar's:
New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

did the main pillar go free?

Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness
Main Pillar - Campfire Route?
1 Lead Bolt
1 Anchor Bolt

W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07




ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!

the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?

[img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/543101217_9ae9d45848.jpg?v=0[/img]

edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.

yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove.

did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

theres some more text after the .jpg

Smith Rock

Diheadreals - Methuselas Column
5 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney
1 Lead Bolt

Diheadreals - Bunny Face
6 Hangers
2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.

Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew
2 Anchors Bolts

Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice
3 Lead Bolts

All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09

appreciate your hard work and time, tyler.

Smith Rock

Red Wall - Helter Skelter
6 Anchor bolts
4 Lead bolts

with Wilbur Nazarien 5/26/09

Good old wilbur.....thanks tyler.

Wolf Rock

Sport Arch - Right Corner Arete
2 Anchor bolts
6 lead bolts

with John Rich 6/16/09

acctually i added a bolt and moved the anchor up 10 feet to a nice stance so now its a little bit longer

never underestimate the enthusiasm of a man w/ a drill

Anyone interested in re-bolting at Carver. It needs serious help.

Which climbs?

Given how many people are always hanging on it, replacing the first bolt of Smerk wouldn't be a bad idea. The two anchors on top of the Chemistry slab are also pretty lousy.

Great idea. I dont even think the first bolt on smerk is a real bolt. More like bent metal that someone made in there garage.

Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.

Menagerie

The Sphinx
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

The Pharoh
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

W/ Catherine Power Aug 09

now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

Smith Rock

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges
14 lead bolts
6 anchor bolts

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09

Most thanks for this goes to Jim for hiking up most of the gear and ropes. And fixing a line so I could jug up and discover the anchor had been half chewed through by a rat while I bounced around on it. Now go get some this is an incredible route.

Yeah dude, thanks for doing that! Now twitter that shit braaaah!

Menagerie Wilderness

Boulder Dome - 10b finish option
1 lead bolt

W/ Brian Gilbert August 09

Menagerie Wilderness

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
2 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Brian Gilbert Aug 09

and while we where climbing that route Chris rapped in and...

The Bridge - The Newt Route
3 Lead Bolts
4 Lead Hangers
3 Anchor Hangers
1 Added lead bolt to P3(since its his FA)

By Chris Fralick

oh whoops then I came back a couple days later by my self and did a little more work on the bridge...

Menagerie Wilderness
The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
1 Lead Bolt
2 Anchor bolts
removed the offending tree during the mid route rap and the bush wich gets in the way linking P3 and P4

Menagerie Wilderness
South Rabbit Ear - West Face
1 lead bolt on P2 (fat 1/2" hand drilled!)

w/ Wilbur Nazarian & Mai Hyman Sept 09

Carver Cliff

About a month ago I replaced the first two bolts on Smerk and the anchor at the top of the crack to the right (the anchor most people traverse over to when they climb Smerk).

I have not read this thread for a while. You rock Tyler. It is awesome that you and others are doing this. I can't wait to get on Santiam Hwy Ledges.

Smith Rock State Park

Diamonds and Rust Buttress - Slow Train (5.7R)
8 lead bolts 2 anchor bolts

w/ Catherine Power and John Rich 2/13/10


This is a cool adventure route that should get some traffic with some new bolts. A long 150' pitch to a single rope rap or continue up Diamonds and Rust for two more pitches.

thanks for the update. Need to get out that way an check it out.

Wolf Rock

Barad Dur
2 anchor bolts on P1
3 lead bolts on P1

w/ Chris Fralick and Dave Trepp 2/28/10

dude! seriously, do you have a regifting plan? i can find a nice new home for quite a few of those guys!

Those slings have at lease two or three more seasons left in them. Say 2 bucks a sling?

Smith Rock

The Wombat - CL Concerto
4 Anchor Bolts
1 Lead Bolt

W/ Bill Amos 2/2010