best of cc.com [TR] Lake Wenatchee - AK47 12/12/2010

[IsolationedSnow]

Trip: Lake Wenatchee - AK47

 

Date: 12/12/2010

 

Trip Report:

Redpointed my new route at the Demilitarized Zone- a crag just West of Lake Wenatchee. Enjoy. I'm calling it m 7. Climb it in crumby conditions for brownie points.

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcGRfQXYZsY

 

Gear Notes:

QD's.

 

Approach Notes:

~ 2 miles up the White River Road on the Right hand side right before the river access turn out on the left. Please be courteous and park off of the road in either turnoff. If you need beta on how to get there pm me.

[Sol]

[DRep]

Please just post pictures next time.

[telemarker]

I can't tell. Is this a two bolt boulder problem. Hard to discern from the video.

[IsolationedSnow]

Don't knock it till you can't make it up it.

And that would be four bolts.

[DRep]

Not knocking it.... It would just be nice to see a few pictures of your routes instead of your up close 1st person view, that's all. Don't get defensive Summitchaser.

[IsolationedSnow]

Oh sorry I completely misread your post. Ya I was going to but it was raining today so I didn't bring my still camera.

[JasonG]

Must . ..not . .. .

[rock-ice]

Dude, I love the hook on the tree! Haha, I'd be right there with you.

[IsolationedSnow]

oh heck ya. Mixed= the MMA of climbing.

[kayfire]

Did summitchaserCJB change his screen name?

[kurthicks]

Please don't use this climb as a project as of now- only climb it if you are pretty sure you can make it

 

why? are the bolts bad?

[IsolationedSnow]

No. Not at all. They are all 1/2 bomber bolts.

Some of the holds chipped on me on the FA- necessitating the huge dyno in the video. I think the current holds will work but I don't know if shorter people will be able to do it as is. I don't want people just going to town projecting it because some of the holds could break from repeated abuse.

Again, probably won't happen but why should one person get to send when 10 different people could have, you know?

[NoahT]

...people just going to town projecting it

 

[IsolationedSnow]

dude try it...thats all I'm saying...

[Alex]

So wait a minute, you put in 4 1/2 in bolts for a mixed route FA, found out the rock was actually friable, and now you want people to be gentle? sweet.

 

If a crucial hold breaks, nothing a drill cant fix

[rob]

No. Not at all. They are all 1/2 bomber bolts.

Some of the holds chipped on me on the FA- necessitating the huge dyno in the video.

 

That was a super sick HUGE dyno. Totally badass.

[IsolationedSnow]

Alex- you're right.

[DRep]

If a crucial hold breaks, nothing a drill cant fix

 

Wait.... That means Summitchaser has a drill? Scary realization. That's like North Korea having nuclear weapons.

[telemarker]

I want my four minutes back...

[fultonville]

Okay...the diff between pink point and red point is pink point you pre-place active/passive pro. When the climb is done you take the gear home. Red point pro is bolted or pinned and is there, hopefully, forever. Either way the climb was rehearsed and obviously done with no falls. No rehearsal, no falls? On-sight. So I'm thinking if you're calling it pink/redpoint part of the pro was not fixed?

 

Two more questions: One, what type of helmet cam was used? Two, where was the ice? Slush and moss don't count unless you're in Scotland. No water source? Get some buckets of cold water and douse that slag every night! ;-j

[el jefe]

summitchaser returns with a new name but the same old shtick...

[kayfire]

M7? i.e., "Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10m of hard climbing," i.e., roughly equivalent to 5.11. Put me down as "skeptical."

 

There's really nothing "mixed" about this "climb"; I think you're misunderstanding the term.

 

There was a dyno, "huge" or otherwise, in there somewhere?

 

In sum, good on you for getting outside and trying something new, but bad on you for continuing to delude yourself, for posting another silly video, and for having near zero humility. I wonder if you will ever learn?

 

I think a TR along the following lines would have been much more appropriate:

 

Practiced some mixed climbing today near Lake Wenatchee at the crag knows as the “Demilitarized Zone.” The rock wasn’t stellar, but it was good enough for practicing a bit of mixed technique. I threw in a few bolts on one line which, given the less than stellar rock, made things a bit safer and also enabled me to practice leading. All in all a fun day. Anyone who’s interested in getting in some “mixed” practice might want to check out the line I bolted; PM me for directions.

 

[IsolationedSnow]

Ya... Again. Just try it. You guys get caught up in the bs too easily. As for the rating- Its my understanding that you use the "d" (drytool) scale to rate a climb without ice but done with rOck shoes. I obviously did this route with crampons and in winter conditions so the m scale is very apropos. A good comparison is the rap wall or the black ice crag- both use m grades and I don't hear you crying about that.

[IsolationedSnow]

Okay...the diff between pink point and red point is pink point you pre-place active/passive pro. When the climb is done you take the gear home. Red point pro is bolted or pinned and is there, hopefully, forever. Either way the climb was rehearsed and obviously done with no falls. No rehearsal, no falls? On-sight. So I'm thinking if you're calling it pink/redpoint part of the pro was not fixed?

 

Two more questions: One, what type of helmet cam was used? Two, where was the ice? Slush and moss don't count unless you're in Scotland. No water source? Get some buckets of cold water and douse that slag every night! ;-j

ok thanks I think I knew all that. I called it a pink point only because I had gone for a redpoint, fallen and lowered off, leaving two draws. I didn't want to go clean them so I left them and called it a pink point when i sent. Is that incorrect? If so, why? Edited December 13, 2010 by IsolationedSnow