Steph_Abegg Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 Trip: Northern Pickets - Wiley Ridge, Challenger, Luna Creek (don't go there!) Date: 7/22/2007 Trip Report: Earlier this year, I started making plans for a grand traverse of the Pickets, starting at the north end (via Wiley Ridge) and finishing at the south end (via Goodell Creek). I posted my plans on Cascade Climbers, and began the search for a partner. Ed and I began the trip on July 22. I would have been surprised if such an involved trip had gone all as planned, but I was not prepared to have to hike out after reaching Luna Basin. So our trip turned into a fun climb of Mt. Challenger followed by a testing struggle through the dense thickets of Luna Creek. The bushwacking down Luna Creek certainly made this trip unique. Fred and Helmy Beckey were perhaps the first to bushwack down Luna Creek on their 10-day traverse from Nooksack River to Diablo Dam in 1940. In Challenge of the North Cascades, he describes their experience: After the worst imaginable struggle with flies, devil's club, willows, and alder on the bottom of the valley flood plain, exhausted by a 3-mile struggle against bush, logs, and marsh, we arrived at the Big Beaver trail around 1:30. Our only remaining food was oatmeal and orange concentrate. We ate the oatmeal dry, without sugar. In other words, quite the character building bushwack. So now there is a full backpack somewhere up the Luna Creek drainage (complete with a brand new Beal Joker and Mega Light tent, ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag, climbing shoes, etc). Ed might want it back, but I'd say anyone up to the challenge of Luna Creek deserves keeping what they find! I posted a full trip report (complete with photos) on my webpage: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/challenger Despite the fact the trip didn't go as planned, getting to climb Challenger and having some stories about bushwacking down Luna Creek was worth it! Already I am making plans to return and complete the traverse, partner and weather dependent of course! Quote
olyclimber Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 http://sabegg.googlepages.com/challenger Sorry your trip didn't work out as you had planned, but you've already had too many great trips in one year! Seriously, I can't believe you'll have trouble finding someone here who can make that trip with you. Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted August 1, 2007 Author Posted August 1, 2007 You mean googlepages (sp)?? got it, thanks. http://sabegg.googlepages.com/challenger Quote
Blake Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 Too bad it didn't work out. Leaving a new pack full of someone elses's gear just because you don't want to deal with brush which you chose to get into is grounds for bad snaffle karma in the future. Quote
olyclimber Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 I thought it was his own gear? When are you planning on trying again Steph? Quote
Tony_Bentley Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 Yeah I just read that TR. Not cool. Tell him to get his ass back up there and go retreive it. No one was dying, no one was in dire straights. Quote
Rad Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 Baptized by the Pickets! One can only imagine the mental state when the decision was made to ditch the pack...I am glad you both made it out safely. My Pickets trip of 03 is still the most amazing and challenging climbing trip I've done. Suffering is underrated. Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted August 1, 2007 Author Posted August 1, 2007 I am glad you both made it out safely. Yeah, that's what's most important. Come out of the mountains able to go back again! Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted August 1, 2007 Author Posted August 1, 2007 When are you planning on trying again Steph? Perhaps in late August, after a trip to the Bugaboos....of course, in the end it is weather dependant since it's not worth doing a trip like this in the rain! I was thinking of entering via Access Creek, gaining the Luna-McMillan saddle, dropping down into Luna Basin, climbing the NB of Fury, traversing to Picket Pass, establishing a camp in the S. Pickets, climbing a few routes there, and then exiting via Goodell Creek.... Quote
Lisa_D Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 Too bad it didn't work out. Leaving a new pack full of someone elses's gear just because you don't want to deal with brush which you chose to get into is grounds for bad snaffle karma in the future. Quote
ken4ord Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 Bummer, to put all that effort to get time off and to get back in there to have to back off. At least you got a little were able to get up Challenger. Your pictures are awesome, I wish they loaded faster, my connection here sucks. Ditching the pack is unbelievable. Hopefully none of your stuff was in his pack. I am one of the few probably who enjoys bushwhacking, I haven't been back in the Pickets, but heard a lot about the shwaching in there, that I look forward to experiencing it first hand someday. Hope you have better luck next time. Quote
dmuja Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 Jeeze.. after checkin yr website (thanks!) my only advice is that in the future you should only climb with the big boys/girls around here (that wouldnt be me btw). You seem to to be somewhat of a climbing prodigy and you obviously deserve as worthy of a partner id say - ie be very picky! Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted August 2, 2007 Author Posted August 2, 2007 I am one of the few probably who enjoys bushwhacking, I haven't been back in the Pickets, but heard a lot about the shwaching in there, that I look forward to experiencing it first hand someday. I "enjoy" it for the mental challenge, I suppose. The slide alder, Devil's club, willows, huckleberry, and flies of Luna Creek would be a good place to experience N. Cascade bushwacking! For motivation, there's a pack full of nice gear somewhere up that drainage.... Quote
Trent Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 Steph: We followed you the next day on Challenger. We entered the Range via the no-brush option by climbing over Whatcom Peak via the North Ridge. I would recommend this approach as an elegant route to access the North Pickets. We then made an aborted attempt on Crooked Thumb, climbed Challenger, Fury (east peak), Luna, then exited via Access Creek. Access Creek was not brushy by North Cascades standards, and almost had a trail in places. Sorry your trip did not turn out as planned Quote
manaos Posted August 6, 2007 Posted August 6, 2007 Anybody on this thread know what the Challenger Glacier will be like in late Sept? I want to do Challenger from Perfect Pass but I wonder if the glacier will be passable with lack of snow cover. JD Quote
silence Posted August 7, 2007 Posted August 7, 2007 Was so looking forward to your full tr and photos -- but, can't possibly be as disappointed as you -- very sorry it didn't work out Steph -- still an amazing effort and glad you guys made it out safe. Next year!! Your images are AWESOME as always. Quote
mattp Posted August 7, 2007 Posted August 7, 2007 Your paragraph about getting separated tells the full story of Luna Creek. Quote
iain Posted August 7, 2007 Posted August 7, 2007 There's certainly a reason it's called access creek. Quote
Picketeer Posted August 7, 2007 Posted August 7, 2007 Access Creek does have its attractions . I do strongly recommend that the north side bushwhack be chosen. It is not the full grovel through thornberry and devil's club that is the south side whack. Quote
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