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wingy

Sat, 14 May 2016 Fatality in Icicle

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Just saw this as well. I'd be interested in some details to learn from the incident.

 

The dude that died in Prime Rib last week is a tragedy as well.

 

Double check everything. Climb your ass off. And get home.

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I was up on Cocaine crack and R&D and am pretty sure the accident did not happen on R&D, I don't believe anyone hopped on R&D after us ( top out before 2 and light rain started). There was a group on Bobs wall doing what looked like gear practice. We happened to drive back by after we left to find all the response teams - very sobering and thoughts are with the lady's family

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This is so sad to hear. I just took my in-laws out to climb in the same area two weeks ago... It's hard to imagine how one would deal with something like this.

 

Does anyone know details on the Prime Rib accident? I know the article said that a knot came untied, but what kind of knot was used (they mentioned it was backed up with a figure 8 but it implies another main knot was used). I'm just curious from a "don't make the same mistake" point of view.

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So many people dying in the mountains over the last couple of months. So sad for the people who loved this most recent victim.

 

I hope we get some details about the accident soon...

 

Does anyone know details on the Prime Rib accident? I know the article said that a knot came untied, but what kind of knot was used (they mentioned it was backed up with a figure 8 but it implies another main knot was used). I'm just curious from a "don't make the same mistake" point of view.

 

The most comprehensive article I've read is Methow Valley News article which talks about the knot used. I think the thread discussing it has some really great links about different knots and some testing that a curious person carried out. Prime Rib CC thread

 

In case anyone reading this hasn't heard of it, there is a really great new podcast that is associated with the American Alpine Club (not sure of the exact relationship) with stories from Accidents in North American Mountaineering... each podcast is about a specific climbing accident with analysis of what went wrong, etc. Check it out! The Sharp End podcast

 

The latest episode features a Denali climbing ranger and he has some wise words about speculation and commentary on others' accidents. He says something like, "I'm sure all of us have been in a situation in which we just got lucky. We have likely all been close to being the victim in some way." He also says "Hope is a terrible risk management tool."

 

 

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It's been reported that she completed the R&D route and slipped from the top after the rain began falling. Any one know her name?

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Yes, I believe the name above by Seraphim may be correct, though nothing is confirmed. I have met her a number of times at Smith and Vantage. She climbs with a friend of mine. Her Facebook page is still up. I've seen her kids climbing with her... This hits very close to home. I'm assuming the authorities are waiting until family is notified to realease the information to the public.

 

So very sad.

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All climbing deaths are bad, but to me these are the worst- experienced climber dies after falling unroped from 3rd/4th class terrain. Cameron Tague, Dallas Kloke, T.J. Langley etc., etc.

 

How many of us could that have been?

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Oh that's sad. RIP. As a parent myself, I am disturbed by this.

 

I agree with the Denali ranger. Most of us have been in situations where we would have died if we'd slipped or something had broken or fallen on us. We were lucky. Sooner or later luck catches up with everyone. That said, if you look at ANAM most accidents involve one or more human errors. Moreover, it tends to be the same patterns that kill people every year. It's great to learn from the mistakes of others. Everyone should read ANAM, but we all make mistakes. Establishing checking procedures to catch errors before they kill us and/or our partners is about the best we can do, unless we just stay home on the couch.

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