joshenj Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Trip: Johannesburg Mountain - 1951 NE Buttress Date: 6/28/2015 Trip Report: I had always wanted to climb Johannesburg ever since I made my first trip up Cascade River Road. Such a massive, impressive, bad-ass looking mountain. From then on I told myself someday I'm going to climb that mountain. Four years later I made a sorry "attempt" to be scared off very low down. Another five years went by, five long years of her taunting me the countless times I looked across the valley only to admire it from afar. It wasn't until Tom invited me to go settle the score, I was so down. Tom, Greg, Eric and myself met at the trailhead on Friday and enjoyed the waning light on Johannesburg, while meeting new friends at the parking lot. I had a restless sleep in anticipation for what tomorrow would bring. Shortly after 5am it was on. The two minute road approach led to the crossing of the Cascade River. A short bushwhack found us on the Sill Glacier. We worked our way up to a snow finger and a short jump off the snow got us onto the buttress. Up we went; the battle began as we worked our way up the path of least resistance which was class 4 rock, steep exposed heather and relentless vertical bushwhacking which slowed our progress to what seemed non-existent. We took breaks when we could, especially at water sources to keep us hydrated on the brutally hot day. As we gained altitude we started progressing out of the trees onto the steep heather and class 4 rock. Approaching the top, we decided to rope up for a few pitches as we were all tired and a mistake at this point, or any for that matter would not be good. Greg did an awesome job leading us up the crux to our bivy site, what an unbelievable spot. It was barely big enough for the four of us but we managed. It didn't actually matter what it was, I was just so happy to turn my brain off of all the dangers and enjoy the views and relax. That night I'll remember forever, the views are so unique; it was a lovely night chatting and reflecting on our day. The next morning we got up and it didn't feel like I got any sleep at all, sore and tired we all managed to pack up and start up the snow arête. We followed it up one of the only semi-large flat spot on the mountain. We admired the upper glaciers for a short while and then Eric led us up the upper snow headwall. Once up the snow, it was a short scramble to the top. It was over, I sat quietly taking it all in, I had done it, we had done it. The way down is an entire different story, at first we traversed the ridge until we were able to descend a number of gully's and sketchy ledges. We made 3 rappels to ease the mind at times, but always leery of the rocks flying down the mountains from time to time. Eventually we made it down to the snow below the CJ col and right next to Cascade Peak, the views of the Middle Cascade were fantastic as usual. Doug's Direct to Cascade Pass and out. Thanks Tom for the awesome route finding! This is a special mountain that throws just about everything at you, you really do earn each step. Thanks Tom, Greg, and Eric for such an amazing trip! Quote
JasonG Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Nicely done! That IS a beast of a mountain, one you will never forget. Quote
Bronco Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Josh, are you or one of your partners a roofer who was working in Snohomish last week by any chance? Great photos, glad to see the arete and upper glacier are in good shape despite the hot wedder. Quote
Matt_Alford Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Well done on ticking off one of Cascade Blue Collar Tour Climbs. High on the list for this guy! Thanks for the right-up! Cheers, Matt Quote
JasonG Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Hey Matt- Do you have a complete list of the (your) Blue Collar Tour? Quote
dave schultz Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Very cool pictures. Makes me really jealous. What is really shocking is how little snow there is across the valley. I was there almost exactly one year ago on the TFT and I skied from just above Cascade Pass to Sahale along the Sahale Arm and from the Sharkfin Col to the Forbidden Col; from your pics that is not even remotely possible, and appears to have been out of the cards for a while. The snowpack / glacier looks like what I imagine it might normally look like in August. Still, some amazing terrain and scenery; truly a special place. Quote
Matt_Alford Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 Cascade Blue Collar Tour: NE Buttress of JBerg, North Face Nooksack Tower, Index Traverse. Not the most technical routes out there, but bring your full mountaineering bag of tricks for the fun. Quote
JasonG Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 I like it, alpine thuggery for sure. I was going to think of another to add, but I think there really isn't another that has the same flavor as those three. At least a route that you'd recommend to someone. Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 Good times Josh, Eric, and Greg. Pretty sure this is my last time up there. I would put the Jagged Ridge Traverse high on anyone's list of blue collar primo routes. In fact, I liked it better than the Index Traverse. Maybe start up the N Face of Nooksack and link it with the rest of Jagged Ridge? I highly recommend that area for full on adventure. Quote
DPS Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 Pretty sure this is my last time up there. I recall seeing your name in the register an unreasonable number of times. You must be a glutton for punishment. Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 I think I'm getting soft, because before this trip I really didn't think the NE Buttress was too bad. This was my fourth trip up the NE Buttress, and fifth summit of J-Burg overall (once by the CJ). I was not prepared to do this off the couch after having been in nursing school for the past three years. In that time, I have climbed like 4 mountains. Quote
sugiyama_ss Posted July 5, 2015 Posted July 5, 2015 I'm thinking of trying the NE Buttress in a couple weeks. Are there reasons to prefer the E Rib (1951) or the W Rib (1957)? Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 My opinion is that the 1957 seems a bit contrived. I'm sure it's a great route, but you have to work to get over to it. Not so with the 1951.. you just go up. Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Thanks for the TR Josh! Dammit Tom, now how am I gonna follow you up this if you are done with it. With all the darn weekend weddings, a honeymoon, and not enough climbing I'm in great tender shape for some alpine thuggery! Quote
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