sportnoob Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 (edited) I was taught that a single deadmanned picket or ice axe with the snow compacted around it is sufficient to be an anchor for crevasse rescue in firm summer snow conditions on Mt R or Baker (e.g. no other pieces in the anchor system). I've always felt somewhat uncomfortable with this (kinda like an anchor of a single bolt on a rock climb), especially because shit's already hit the fan if you're hoisting someone out of a crack and I don't want things to go from bad to worse. In conversation with various folk I hear a wide variety of opinions - ranging on a spectrum from bomber anchors that take time with a cordelette, to quick and dirty stuff to get your injured partner out as fast as possible. There's much writing out there on these systems, yet they tend to gloss over the anchor part (likely because it is so condition-dependent). The best writing I've seen on the issue is the NZ article from a few years back. I know snow conditions are everything when it comes to anchors. But for firm summertime stuff on the big local volcanoes, what's your game plan for such an anchor? Is it different for firm morning snow vs afternoon mashed potatoes? Am I kidding myself that such conditions in a specific season can even be generalized? Is anyone using a hammered picket top-clipped or two (presumably one of the fastest options) anymore? Those of you who like something more substantial than a single deadmanned hunk of metal, have you tested out how long it takes to construct? I'm trying to decide where I come down on the speed / safety continuum on this one. Crowd sourcing maybe isn't the best way, but it is a data point. For clarity - I'm assuming a single rope team where a mechanical advantage system is necessary to hoist someone out of the crack. Edited June 6, 2015 by sportnoob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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