[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs 3/13/2015

[Stormy Weather]

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 3/13/2015

 

Trip Report:

This is more of a conditions report and it has most likely changed as it started raining late friday night and likely still raining to close to the top of the route as is write this early sunday morning. No photos. Sorry.

 

My partner and I left the gated road early friday morning at 4AM to attempt Triple Couloirs in a day. Just a little background on myself: My partner and I are both very strong moderate (5.8-5.9) climbers with some experience on longer (grade III-IV) rock and mountaineering climbs. This is my first bigger alpine snow and ice climb and before this I had climbed very little ice.

 

The road was was melted out for the first half and then snow covered for the majority of the second half. After passing the trailhead the majority of the trail is covered with snow and/or ice. The trail turned out to be the sketchiest part of the day.

 

We reached the lake as the sun was coming up and hiked across to the far side then stopped to refuel, change boots, and stash some unnecessary gear then continued to the base of the hidden couloir.

 

On Route at 10:30AM. This was a little later then we had wanted to start the climb but we had budgeted for about 8 hrs on route so this would still allow us to top out before sunset. We chose the left side entrance into the couloir which was straightforward low angle ice but a little thin in placoes. Once in the couloir we began simu-ing and eventually reached the bottom of the runnels around 12:30. We were a little worried because the snow in the couloir was a little warm and were experiencing some balling on our crampons and there were couple of small rockfall events.

 

The runnels were in very good condition with the ice on the steeper sections being pretty thick and for the most part easily protectable with screws. Our belays were set with rock gear and we made it into the second couloir in two long pitches.

 

The rest of the route was climbed in two long simu pitches the first getting us from the base of the 2nd couloir to the bottom of the 3rd. I found the transition from the 2nd to the 3rd a little hard to protect as the ice was not nearly as good as the runnels with some good and some rotten neve.

 

We ended up toping out around 830PM doing the last little bit of the 3rd couloir in the dark by headlamp with some clouds starting to roll into the mountains. I ended up leading the entire climb as my partner started feeling sick and felt his speed and decision making as a leader may be compromised. Taking 10 hours on route we both called our wives to let them know we were out of most of the danger and also to let them know we would not make it home by the intended time of midnight. (Verizon gets good cell service at the top.)

 

The descent was straightforward, we made it back to the lake, picked up our gear and walked out. Back at the truck around 430AM very tired, sore, bruised and bloody (the ice on the trail had taken its toll on us brutally more than a few times). 24 and a half hours car to car.

 

Gear Notes:

Traction devices required for the approach. We took 8 screws of various lengths, one piton, 2 pickets, single set of camalots from .5-3, full set of nuts, and camp tricams .5-2. We ended up using most of these except the piton and I found myself wishing for another picket more than once. If I was to change anything i would take another picket, ditch the numbers 2 and 3 cams for some bigger hexes and lose the long screws.

 

Approach Notes:

The trail is SCARY without traction devices. I fell more times than I care to admit or could keep track of and my partner ended up stopping one of his falls by putting his face in a rock and breaking his nose on the way out.

Edited March 15, 2015 by Stormy Weather

[ivan]

sounds like the trails in 1.10+ conditions

[MWM]

Stormy weather,

 

Congrats on the climb and thanks for the TR. I would describe myself, much like you...that is, I'm at ease on rock and have lead a very few ice pitches in the WI2-WI3 range. I've also been thinking of doing TC, and it would be my first big alpine route of this nature. I'm curious what your thoughts are on this being your first big alpine snow/ice route? In hindsight, do you wish you'd chosen something more conservative, or did the route seem appropriate as a first big alpine snow/ice climb?

 

Thanks for your input.

[jakedouglas]

Interesting that you had good Verizon service on top of Dragontail. There is none over on Colchuck.

 

I think someone could make a killing by sitting at the gate selling microspikes.

[Stormy Weather]

@mwm. I have never led any ice and climbed very little of it but am a strong climber in my range any was very conscious of not using my hands (axes) for more than balance. In other words I felt competent leading the ice but I did end up running it out in places because I knew that I would expend more energy placing a screw than I would just climbing through. Had the ice not been as good as it was and there have been more mixed climbing I don't know how I would've done. Be comfortable on steep snow and be comfortable simu-climbing. Most of this climb needs to be and can be simuled to get it done in any sort of reasonable time. Lastly, don't try to do it in a day the first time you attempt it. If I was to do it over again I would plan on camping at colchuck at least the night before to get an early start on the route. With the rain that it's getting right now I doubt it will be in the same condition as when we climbed and likely will need at least a couple of good days of low freezing levels before it should be attempted. Who knows if that will happen the way this winter is going.

 

@jake. I think Dragontail must be just outside of the cell shadow of neighboring peaks. I Didn't have any signal just 20 ft from the top of the third couloir but when I got over the edge I all the sudden received 15 emails and a text and could see the lights of the surrounding towns (wenatchee most likely but it was pitch black when we got to the top). Yes. Wish I had some microspikes

 

Edited March 15, 2015 by Stormy Weather

[mthorman]

Stormy weather,

 

Congrats on the climb and thanks for the TR. I would describe myself, much like you...that is, I'm at ease on rock and have lead a very few ice pitches in the WI2-WI3 range. I've also been thinking of doing TC, and it would be my first big alpine route of this nature. I'm curious what your thoughts are on this being your first big alpine snow/ice route? In hindsight, do you wish you'd chosen something more conservative, or did the route seem appropriate as a first big alpine snow/ice climb?

 

Thanks for your input.

 

I think doing this route as your first big alpine climb is very condition dependent. I climbed the route 2 weeks ago and it sounds like the conditions were the same. Which by the way is fat compared to last year. Last year there was a lot more rock and a lot less ice (at least in late March/early April). As others have said be very comfortable on steep snow. The route is several thousand feet long but really only the transitions between couloirs need protecting. The couloirs themselves can easily be soloed which saves a LOT of time. Many parties get bogged down and spend a long time on route dealing with protection. When I did it 2 weeks ago we spent the night at Colchuck lake, and we took bivy sacks to save on weight. I would recommend staying at the lake for your first time, particularly if this climb is going to push your limits. It helps to have a fresh start from the lake. Finally go with a partner who is at your level or better. That way if the steep ice runnels test your limits you can always swing leads.

 

Lastly beware of the warmer weather as others have stated. I am not sure how much this warm trend/rain is affecting it, but it can't be good. However, this is definitely a classic route and worth the trip!

[goran]

I think doing this route as your first big alpine climb is very condition dependent.

 

+1 for this. Last year (see here for TR) we found exactly 0 ice screw placements and a couple of pitches required every one of our 5 or 6 pins (many of which did not inspire confidence). I can't imagine it would have been a good intro alpine climb in those conditions.

 

I think it was Jim Nelson who described TC as spanning a spectrum of difficulties; he has experienced it as everything from a 3 hour cruise on neve and fat ice to a harrowing near-death epic. So, could it be a good intro alpine route? Absolutely! But it can also be a scare-fest with avy hazard, marginal gear, etc.

[MWM]

Thanks everybody for the beta. I may have missed my weather window this year, but I'll be sure to keep a close eye on it next spring.

[DPS]

I think it was Jim Nelson who described TC as spanning a spectrum of difficulties; he has experienced it as everything from a 3 hour cruise on neve and fat ice to a harrowing near-death epic.

I've done it twice, once (via the North Face) I thought I might die, the second (via the runnels) was a straight forward climb with good pro.

[adventxchick]

How is the condition of eight mile road? Is it still closed? If so, does it add about ~4 miles and ~1000ft of gain to the overall approach? Thanks!

[mthorman]

I would be surprised if the road is open. The FS doesn't usually open it until much later and I doubt they will open it early even if it is snow free. Bottom line plan on the road walk and someday you might be pleasantly surprised. The road walk adds an extra 3.5 miles and 1200 ft of elevation gain. Good luck!

[adventxchick]

Thanks! I appreciate it!

[DPS]

Walking the road adds about 90 minutes to the approach and an eternity to the descent.

[Bronco]

I thought it (walking the road in climbing or ski boots) was mandatory to get into the Cascade Softman Club.

[Stormy Weather]

Road was and is closed. First two miles are snow free (most of the elevation gain) the next there was up to 18-20 inches of snow on the road for most of the way to the trailhead. Doubt there is that much there now as it has been warm in town his week and the snow is melting off fast where I work at 3000 ft up ingalls creek.

[Kyle_Flick]

Bring a mountain bike & stash it where the snow starts to enjoy coasting down the last two+ miles of the road on the descent. The road adds 8 miles roundtrip to the adventure.

[YocumRidge]

Bigeo and I climbed TC on Thu (03/19/2015) after the dump of fresh earlier that week. We found a mix of water ice, alpine ice, snice, fresh snow, spindrifted pillows and a moving slope in the third couloir.

 

I thought the crux was a sweet blue WI3 flow recently formed from the base cone on the right side entrance to the Hidden couloir - which we soloed. We roped up in the runnels and simuled from that point on as we were fighting the unrelenting spindrift all way to the summit ridge. Never trust NOAA when they promise a windless day. 6 hrs on route.

 

In the runnels:

 

In the transition to the third couloir:

 

On the summit:

 

 

Big props to the two kids (17 and 13 y. old !) who climbed Gerber-Sink next door (must be in good shape now too) and topped out an hour earlier than us.

 

 

 

 

[Alex]

nice job to both your party and theirs!