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Posted

Finally ready to pull the trigger on a single tent for climbing. Only problem is, I have no idea which one. This will be my first mountaineering tent, as I am relatively new to the sport.

 

I would like something that is 2 person, relatively light (split between partners), and within my budget ($650 or so tops). Good floor space would be a perk. I'm not a big guy (5'10" 170lbs) but would like to be able to make sharing the space as "comfortable" (I know, oxymoron by climbing standards) as possible.

 

So...any suggestions out there?

 

Thanks,

 

Brandon

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Posted (edited)

For your height,a Firstlight is a good option. For mine, not so much. I really wish they made a Firstlight with a 6 more inches in both directions. I can't think it would add that much more weight, and what a difference in comfort. I spent a week in a HiLight in the Pickets and it was tough.

Edited by JasonG
Posted

Thanks, guys. I've definitely considered the first light. Also, found a Direkt 2 on closeout for ~ $375. Any experience with those? I know they're a small/right footprint. More interested in how the materials compare in terms of waterproofing/condensation.

 

Anyone used the EV 2 or is that overkill for the PNW?

Posted

I have used an EV2 - really stupid tent, in my opinion. No mesh door, and no vestibule. Really only useful in very cold/high environments.

 

I would also recommend the firstlight (I own one). I'd also have a serious look at the Sierra Designs Convert 2 (I've used one a bunch and really liked it - quite well thought out)and the new North Face Assault 2 (I think it's called that?)

 

 

Posted

Black Diamond made a tent for awhile that had the Firstlight Fabric, but the design of the Ahwanee - it was called the Lighthouse. The footprint is a little bigger in both dimensions than the Firstlight, and it has a side door and a third pole across the top. I am not a big fan of the side door and big pole, but it is only slightly heavier than the Firstlight and I value the extra floor space. As long as you're not getting battered by winds along the broad side of the tent (which could catch the awning), you should be good.

 

I see these for sale on eBay and craigslist from time to time (that's how I got mine).

 

It looks like the party of 3 on the Huntington trip report in the AK forum used one for their trio (very cozy, no doubt).

Posted

I also agree with the lighthouse. I have both the lighthouse and the firstlight. The extra few inches of the lighthouse keep the single wall off your toes, and if you are taller than 6'0" the firstlight is a really tight squeeze (making the lighthouse a better option). I also got mine by trolling on the forums and waiting for someone to post theirs for sale...

Posted

Assuming fast/light quick trips with good weather I would say:

 

Team of 2: Firstlight

Team of 3: Lighthouse

 

Good luck finding a Lighthouse though; I had to look for awhile to find one.

 

That said if you plan on extended trips and/or potential crap weather I'd consider

 

Team of 2: I tent

Team of 3: Eldorado

 

I've seen Firstlight/Lighthouses shredded in high winds

Posted

For those that like the Firstlight, but want more room, consider the Skylight. It's more room, more stable, and still in the budget range. It's around 4 lbs. I've gotten good service from mine. My climbing partner with the Eldorado always wants me to bring it instead of his tent.DSC000371.JPG

Posted

I'm probably in the market for a 4 season alpine tent. I've spent the last few years spooning in other peoples firstlights and Impotents. Being 6'6" it's a pretty tight squeeze and I'm curious about the eldorado. the 5 extra inches would be awesome, but with my size 14 feet I know I'd still be pushing out the ends. Does anyone have experience making your own tents? Prolight in town stocks everything that I could ever need, I'd talk to them, but they're more ultralight backpacking oriented...

Posted

Being 6'6" it's a pretty tight squeeze and I'm curious about the eldorado. the 5 extra inches would be awesome, but with my size 14 feet I know I'd still be pushing out the ends.

 

The elderado is really bulky and heavy. I bought one seeking the additional room, and sent it back because it was just not worth the weight and bulk; I then went on the hunt/prowl for a used lighthouse, and eventually found one. Like I said before, the lighthouse packs just about as small as the firstlight but has a TON more room ... even at 6'6" and size 14 feet you are probably not sticking out too much.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey everyone,

 

Any concerns with the weatherproofness of the Firstlight/HiLight fabric? Obviously I wouldn't want to take this if it was guaranteed to be dumping, but how does it do when something blows in?

 

 

Posted

I have a Lighthouse and use it in the Cascades. It has weathered the winds on Rainier without too much drama. You'll definitely want a footprint, though, the silnylon floor is fragile. I spent 6 weeks in a EV-3 on a glacier in Greenland last year. I was impressed with the space and strength- it was one of the few tents on the expedition that withstood 70mph winds unscathed- but the EV tents are on the heavier end of the weight spectrum. I also have an Eldorado which I prefer for colder conditions but try not to take unless the Lighthouse won't cut it. The weight/bulk difference in the pack is noticeable.

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