In the market for new rock shoes....

[bidbird]

A question for the rock gurus....

 

So I've finally come to realize that my old second hand boreal ballets don't really fit me that well. My feet are narrow and boreal's tend to be wide. As great as they are for cracks, I would like a better face climbing shoe.

 

My criteria is narrow, flat lasted and reasonably comfortable.

 

Suggestions?

 

 

 

[pink]

La Sportiva for Narrow Feet. When you find a shoe you like, buy two pairs I've heard the Muiras are good face shoes but i just try pairs on until i find that perfect fit.

Edited February 25, 2014 by pink

[tvashtarkatena]

Five Tens run narrow.

[bidbird]

To give you guys a quantifiable measurement of "narrowness" most Brannock Devices list my feet as somewhere between A and B width. They also generally list my feet as size 11.0 though I generally wear 11.5 on the street.

 

 

[pink]

go to a store, try on shoes until you find a pair you like. don't buy a pair too big, don't buy a pair that's too small…. buy a pair that's just right

[bidbird]

You know I would love to do that, but my local store only has roughly 6 different shoes, none of which really meet my criteria. I could special order the shoes, but they don't take returns on special orders (So I can't buy two and return one)...

[ryanb]

Try a women's model? The women's miura or katana or anasazi lv could be a good choice if you can get them big enough. Women's climbing shoes are usually just narrower (especially in the heal) versions of men's shoes and lots of guys climb in them.

 

Plus its not like you can shoe up in women's shoes and not send hard.

 

 

[boadman]

The mythos would probably work better if you want your toes flat. The long laces make it possible to adjust the fit for lots of different foot shapes.

[mmeyers]

zappos has a sizeable number of climbing shoes and free returns, so you could do that to find a shoe you like.

 

I agree about La Sportiva being narrow. in contrary to the above comment, I find five-ten shoes are wide in my experience.

 

If you're looking to keep your feet flat, you'll probably end up with mythos or TC Pro.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Scarpa Techno has worked well for me, flat lasted and a little stiffer than the Mythos (which I think are way softer than your Boreals). I wouldn't say my feet are especially narrow but I have noticed several shoes seem to wide on me so maybe I'm on the narrow side of the spectrum. I haven't tried the new Techno X which they just put out though.

[curtveld]

I also have long narrow-ish feet and love the Technos! They are a great all-arounder, but quite good for face. If you can find a pair (few of old version left, new version not out yet), be aware they don't stretch much at all, so don't fit them much tighter than how you want them to end up. I've got a used pair that might work for an 11.5.

 

Agree that Sportivas are usually a good choice, 5.10s not so much...

[genepires]

no idea of where you live or your needed time frame, but many rock gyms (and some outside venues) have small impromptu get togethers where rock shoe companies bring in demos. there is your chance to try on many different sizes and types.

 

where do you live bird bird?

[bidbird]

^Somewhere in the land east of Cle-elum....

 

 

Edited February 28, 2014 by bidbird

[genepires]

I know that some vendors have had demos in the icicle. and if you are willing to drive, they had one that I know of at the redmond VW.

 

Maybe talk to the leavenworth mountain something or other and the vertical world to see if these events are going on soon.