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bedellympian

next harness

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I have been climbing in a petzl adjama I bought used off a climbing partner for over a year. It is showing wear on one leg loop strap and I want to purchase a new harness. My budget is... the cheaper the better. I am really looking for an all-around harness (trad, sport, ice, alpine, but more focused on trad and alpine). It doesn't have to be perfect, I'm a skinny guy and I need to be able to do hanging belays, rack a bunch of gear, not have it weigh too much, and not break the bank... sounds like just about any harness they have out there these days so really just asking for some recs...

 

Hit me!

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I can get discounts on Camp, Metolius, DMM, Edelrid, Petzl, Trango and BD so I prefer stuff in those brands but I will pay full price if something is worth the price.

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The new petzl Sama looks real nice, but I know the petal Calidris is super comfy and I think it is a bit cheaper. Worth giving it a look.

 

Eric

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Some things to think about when buying a harness might be the adjustable vs. elastic leg loops and a pre-threaded vs. non pre-threaded waist belt. Both are more personal preference, but some people really like/dislike certain things. I have been using Black Diamond harnesses for over 5 years. I first had the Momentum AL but have since upgraded to the Aspect. I personally love the Aspect. For me it is a good compromise between being light weight/packable and enough padding to hang a little. Although I wouldn't want to use it as a big wall harness. It has a couple spots to attach ice screw racking biners. Also has plenty of space for a larger trad rack. My only dislike of the harness is that the waist belt doesn't come all the way undone (well it actually can, but it isn't very easy). Good luck in your search! Once you have narrowed down your options to 1 or 2 you might try Spadout.com to look for the best deals.

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BD aspect for everything short of big walls, unless you're rich. If you are I'd suggest getting something like the petzl hirundos for ice climbing and alpine. Avoid dead bird because of the price and they are just not all that durable.

 

My aspect is pretty trashed after half a year, so my advice could also just be bullshit.

Go buy a harness, chances are it'll work for you.

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Thanks for the input guys...

 

So far...

BD Aspect- 2

Met Comp-1

Ptzl Calidris- 1

 

Some questions: I have skinny legs for my 33" waist but I will take this on Hood in winter and crag at Smith in summer. Do I still need adjustable leg loops? Since the adjustable leg loop buckle is wearing my leg loops on my old harness I am feeling like they are better to avoid? Opinions?

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Also, after reading online reviews I'm interested in the CAMP Quartz CR3 and just getting a new Petzl Adjama... any experience with either of these two out there?

 

Out of these 5 what is the most durable?

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I have two harnesses as my general go-to gear... If weight matters at all I use my BD Aspect and think its great. (its still not a superlight) when I'm really gonna wear the harness from dawn till dusk I take my Camp Quartz cause its a little cushier around the waist. Mostly I'm doing multi-pitch trad climbing with a fair amount of gear. The Camp Flint harness is also an awesome all-around harness thats a tad lighter than the two I just mentioned and about $20 cheaper too.

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....take...on Hood in winter and crag at Smith in summer.

 

Seems like two harnesses are in order? You probably shouldn't be taking whippers in the winter and could go with something light with adjustable leg loops. This is what I've done and it is nice not to have to pack a huge harness in the winter. More room for warm clothes!

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I think the Adjama is the best do everything harness I've had. Of course it seemed to fit ME much better than the other brands I tried on. I say try on 4-6 different brands and go with whatever fits best. Same thing with helmets.

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I'd go to the climbing store and try on a bunch of harnesses and hang in them and get the one that's most comfortable. For me it was the Metolious Safe Tech. I also like how it is over-built. Its not the lightest, but I have a lightweight Camp one for alpine and ski mountaineering.

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I will have to check that out, sounds pretty ideal.

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"Seems like two harnesses are in order?" -JasonG

 

I have a BD Couloir (super light webbing harness for easy routes). Of course I'm not taking whippers on Hood but any harness can take whippers. At Smith I tend to climb more in the Lower Gorge or get on the classic trad and multi-pitch lines on tuff. Working harder sport climbs happens but isn't really a priority for me. This harness would be more for Illumination Rock type of climbs where a variety of gear is needed.

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i just use a biner and electical tape to stabilize it. Stronger than a plastic one, and being a lefty, most harnesses don't have the left side forward enough anyway. I also have just been putting screws on a shoulder sling recently.

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Ive been using the BD Aspect for a couple months now and would highly recommend it. It fits well, is light but also provides enough comfort to be bearable.

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