new rap station on South Face Jello tower

[markwebster]

Does anyone know why there is a new rap station on South Face Jello tower?

 

It appeared this spring, or last fall. Since it went up, I've been seeing more people top roping South Face, and The Nose, both of which can be accessed from this new rap station.

 

I have mixed feeling about this. I used it to rap off, it's handy. But this makes it even easier for the gangbanger crowd to take over these lovely routes. One leader, do a smith rock sport lower and line up your none leading friends for a morning of Top Roping.

 

If this new station gets left in place, we will soon see one on Damnation, and possibly Angel, not to mention many others.

 

Castle used to be a place where you could only climb if you knew how to lead multipitch routes. Building TR anchors with gear is tedious and exacting, so most people didn't come to Castle for Top Roping. Quite honestly there seemed to be a better class of people up on Castle. You had to know your stuff, pay your dues.

 

There is also a brand new convenience anchor on Brass Balls. Totally unneeded. I can see a king swing going in there once word gets around.

 

This is one of the new anchor bolts on the Brass Balls anchor, perfectly good crack right beside it, and yes, I clipped it:

 

 

 

I've never been into bolt chopping...and I have no plans to start now...but this is a trend that could completly change the character of Castle Rock.

[telemarker]

What about the anchor above Smut/Mr. Clean? Above Clean Love and Aids Victim? Or the anchor above PG Advised and others to the right of that? Lower Castle is a wonderful area to crag now that those anchors are in place, and fine routes that used to be moss covered are now clean and climbable thanks to the hard work and $$ put in by others. By all means place your own anchor and continue up to loggers ledge from the BB anchor. Or rap from the anchor and continue to enjoy the rest of the awesome pitches on lower castle.

 

BTW, I've seen the bolted contrivances you and your crew been installing on upper Careno Crag, and the lines are less than inspiring.

 

These are anchors designed to aid in safety and efficiency. The top of Jello Tower, with just one anchor, can be tied up indefinitely on a busy weekend. I see the S.Face anchor as a means of reducing some of the pressure on just one anchor.

 

No mention of the anchor above No Such Thing as a Free Lunge?

 

And yes, Damnation Crack has its own bolted anchor.

[Blake]

I didn't place it but I definitely like it!

 

This is nothing new. Castle has had anchors atop 1-pitch lines for years.

 

For some perspective, here are a few previously-existing anchors atop single-pitches, which facilitate TRing from the ground and don't require building a gear anchor or multi-pitching to the top:

 

Crack of Doom

Devil's Fright (same anchor as above)

 

No Such Thing as a Free Lunge

Mf Direct (same chains as above)

 

Damnation

DDD (same chains as above)

 

Canary

Hang Dog (" ")

 

Midway

 

Das Muzak

 

The Fault

 

and now the S. Face and the Nose have a shared anchor.

 

 

I'm not saying there aren't potential good reasons to oppose the two bolts, but doing so under the pretense that this one anchor suddenly "crosses the line" or is out-of-tradition at Castle is just plain wrong.

 

 

 

[markwebster]

Good points mostly, I stand corrected.

 

A couple routes I don't see as having tr anchors in your list.

 

Canary doesn't really have a TR anchor...you have to at least put in a directional. Someone will probably "fix" that soon.

 

Damnation doesn't really have a TR anchor, DDD anchor is off to the left...I've never tried to access it as it seems off route. I always go to top of Jello, which I think is too high for a 60 TR?

 

Crack of Doom used to finish off right up towards Canary pitch 2, or that's perhaps just me doing it wrong. It is thin going right.

 

The fault, last time I did it last year just had that bad tied off bush. Is there a new anchor there too?

 

Overall though I think you are right. It will be nice to see some of Castles routes get more traffic. And hell, I like Smith rocks. It's handy to be able to rap off everything. As far as the top ropers, it's the wave of the future. Us old has beens that remember the old days are pointless.

 

Perhaps the same person will finally put a good TR anchor on Penny Lane, no reason not to right?

 

As far as Careno, I have neither bolted, cleaned or climbed the route my friends put up there. I went up one day with them to climb Bale Kramer. On the way down they said they wanted to work on their route. I took some pictures and video of their bolting and cleaning efforts. I suspect it may be a good route, but I don't climb that hard, so I will leave it to others to judge.

[telemarker]

Disregard my comment about Careno Crag. I'm always appreciative of climbers taking the time to develop new routes.

[Pete_H]

Good anchors make good sense. Thanks to whomever put them in.

[Raindawg]

Raindawg coming briefly out of retirement from cc.com to say:

 

Keep the new bolts off of Castle Rock; folks have been climbing with a minimum of them for DECADES!

You might recall what happened a few years ago when DDD was sport-bolted by some people who considered it "too dangerous" to lead it trad, and thought they were doing everyone a favor because the route wasn't getting enough "traffic". Their "improvements" disappeared not long afterwards.

 

Mark wrote:

It will be nice to see some of Castles routes get more traffic.

 

The question is, "why"? Do you really want to see more, rather than less, people at the crags? (Been to the Icicle lately? It's overrun by the Pad People and everyone else!)

 

And hell, I like Smith rocks. It's handy to be able to rap off everything.

 

Did you ever climb at Smith Rocks before it became a bolted "paradise"? It might have been less "handy", but it was also a lot less crowded and the rock less altered. (Maybe you like crowds???)

 

Us old has beens that remember the old days are pointless.

 

Speak for yourself. "New" doesn't necessarily equate with "good" and "change" doesn't guarantee "progress". It's not pointless. It's called eco-mindedness and clean-climbing and it is becoming the future.

[JasonG]

the end

[RJRiha]

I have absolutely no problem with these new anchors. If there were no anchors on top of Jello Tower, or only ONE set of anchors, then the hordes going up Midway would jam up the other routes, which can currently be climbed and rapped off.

 

Last time I climbed the Fault, I noticed the large collection of tat on the bush (that can be easily seen from the ground) was GONE. I thought someone had done a good deed. What I didn't realize until my partner pointed out, that there was a nice set of bolts near that bush. Also, now with new anchors, a bunch of those nice looking climbs at lower castle are now cleaned up and look like they could provide a nice day of climbing. Before recently, the only clean routes there were Brass Balls, Mr. Clean, and the Fault. Now I can't even name all of the clean routes. I personally like that. Some don't. The crowds aren't going away in Leavenworth any time soon. But the crowds aren't going to Lower Castle....

[pope]

You want more crowds/traffic at Castle Rock? Just bolt it to a point where it is completely unnecessary to bring a rack of nuts (yes...there is a dual meaning here). But I see you are already working on this. That anchor on Brass Balls is ridiculous but everybody chimes in with support. And then Mr. Webster nearly apologizes for questioning bolts next to cracks on Castle Rock.

 

You guys can go to Hell. Anybody want to buy my rack before there is no place remaining to use it?

[telemarker]

Anchors were added to Castle Rock, not bolts to routes. Anchors so that more routes are available to climb. The anchor on BB doesn't change its character in any way.

 

Crowds on Castle? Too funny. Yeah, crowds on Fault/Catapult/Midway/Canary/Angel Crack/Saber. Old news there.

 

Despite the bolted anchor above The Nose, I have never had to wait to lead The Nose. Never had to wait to lead MF Overhang. Despite the anchor above Crack of Doom, I've never had to wait to lead that, nor Satanic Verses, which for years has had a bolt by a crack. I rarely have to wait to lead Damnation Crack despite the anchor above that one. Two in fact if you count the one on top of Jello Tower.

 

Oh, and despite Das Muzak being a sport route, I've only seen one person leading it, like three years ago. There's never a line waiting to lead that one.

 

The number of times I've had to wait in line to lead BB since the anchor was installed: Zero. The number of times I've waited to lead Smut or Mr. Clean? Zero. The number of times I've waited to lead Clean Love or Aids Victim? Zero. Same goes for PG Advised. Zero.

 

Cut the hyperbole. These anchors clearly have not spelled the doom of Castle Rock.

Edited October 13, 2013 by telemarker

[Verticolorful]

Ok guys...

I placed that anchor on jello tower.

 

I'm sorry that it ruined your day to hear about a clean two bolt anchor at a crag you never go to.

 

I'm sorry that I destroyed your contrived opportunity to create your own TRAD anchor that you could use right befor you take it down and wait for the chains to be available on midway.

 

Raindawg I know you had your own issue with placing bolts were someone else does not want them.

 

I put thought into it and even got the suggestion from other leavenworth locals to put them in. So if you guys think that cascade climbers is the place to tell us how to maintain our local crags then please continue with the amusing spray.

 

I placed the anchor as an alternative way to get off the tower. The midway anchor almost always has someone clipped through the chains. And I almost never saw people on the nose before the anchors.

 

And next time you see a bolted anchor please make your own gear anchor. Not just on jello tower but everywhere, forever. Just like they used to do it. But you better not leave any fixed gear or ill start a new forum

 

 

[denalidave]

You guys can go to Hell. Anybody want to buy my rack before there is no place remaining to use it?

I'll give you $20 for the rack, sight unseen. Better yet, straight trade for some new stainless hangers, chains & rap rings.

[Dave A.]

Thanks, Verticolorful, for the new anchors. Appreciate the work you and others are putting in at Castle.

[Fairweather]

I put thought into it and even got the suggestion from other leavenworth locals to put them in. So if you guys think that cascade climbers is the place to tell us how to maintain our local crags then please continue with the amusing spray.

 

Attn to all of the Seattle-area ex-pats who now call themselves "Leavenworth Locals": Unless a crag is on private property, it doesn't belong exclusively to you.

[tvashtarkatena]

Been climbing on Castle for 30 years now and its just about as crowded, and not any more so, than it ever was. Never seen a real live waiting line there. Plenty to do for all who apply.

 

In a world full of real issues, this one doesn't exactly electrify the cage much.

 

Modernity! Things can and do just get better!

Edited October 13, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[rob]

I wish someone would put an anchor on top of dogleg, that poor tree is developing notches. PM me, I'll even pay for the hardware.

 

also, holy fuck there is a lot of butt hurt in this thread. Raindawg, how do you even sit down? One of those donut pillows?

[Pete_H]

OMG! Fixed anchors at a crag. The horror!

[tvashtarkatena]

Castle Rock is a World Class Crag, not just 'a crag'.

[rob]

Attn to all of the Seattle-area ex-pats who now call themselves "Leavenworth Locals": Unless a crag is on private property, it doesn't belong exclusively to you.

 

possession is 9/10th of the law

[tvashtarkatena]

Its a World Class Local Crag.

[Fairweather]

No real dog in this fight, other than I just think it's sad a guy like Mark Webster--loved and respected by many--is shouted down by so-called Leavenworth locals for voicing an opinion grounded firmly in ethics and common courtesy. No matter. I guess what I really find disturbing is that in a sport becoming more and more imbued with youthful arrogance, narcissism, privilege, and ego, a new low has quite possibly just been reached with "Verticolor's" message to the world. Truly stunning statements, IMO:

 

 

I'm sorry that it ruined your day to hear about a clean two bolt anchor at a crag you never go to.

 

I'm sorry that I destroyed your contrived opportunity...

 

I put thought into it and even got the suggestion from other leavenworth locals to put them in. So if you guys think that cascade climbers is the place to tell us how to maintain our local crags then please continue with the amusing spray.

 

[telemarker]

I just think it's sad a guy like Mark Webster--loved and respected by many--is shouted down...

 

 

Supercute Fairweather!

 

It's the internet, cc.com discussion forum, where everyone is shouted down, and everything that you say is always right. Don't post if you are too sensitive. Or bring back the Cafe Sensitivo forum...

[pink]

[pope]

Telemarker...it was fascinating to read about all the routes for which you didn't have to wait in line. Time well spent.

 

For years, Castle Rock was practically the last place in Leavenworth where fixed anchors didn't dominate the belay anchors and protection schemes. With few exceptions, to climb at Castle meant finding security using the gear you carried and the cracks available. Generations of climbers enjoyed this rewarding experience.

 

Adding an anchor to Brass Balls or Jello Tower may offer convenience, but it's not worth the price. As Webster points out, additional bolts promote additional bolts. It won't be long before bolts are added to protect Damnation's wide cracks. Many here will comment they don't have a problem with this. Well I do.

 

Before some of you who call yourself "locals" likely remember, the outside corner left of Saints was bolted, offering 40 or 50 feet of obnoxious sport climbing. The "route" ended at a sport anchor 5 feet below the Saints/Angel belay ledge. A Wenatchee resident and I removed this nonsense while one of the most prolific Leavenworth locals of all time kept us hydrated.

 

The belay on Brass Balls is so perfect. No matter what's left on your rack, you can find superb anchorage in that crack. The new bolts allow climbers to descend and thereby avoid climbing to Loggers Ledge. Is that convenience really worth completely changing the nature of this experience? If you think the benefits of this change are worth the cost, you clearly do not care about rock climbing. What you advocate is some kind of engineered, artificial experience. Shame on you for not desiring something better.

 

Finally, I'm curious about the guys who consider themselves "Leavenworth locals". Reading through the comments in this thread, I get the impression they assume they have authority over decisions made on land owned by the public, just because they live in a Bavarian theme park which happens to be located in the vicinity. I'm furthermore curious to know why anybody would take some kind of dish-washing job in Leavenworth to support their passion for climbing. If it were Yosemite I could understand.....