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Verticolorful

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Everything posted by Verticolorful

  1. [TR] Aasgard Pass - Acid Baby 6/15/2015

    Yeah the last two weekends have been SO BUSY up there. I would not be surprised if they extended the permit season in the next year or two....
  2. Trip: Washington Pass - NW Corner; NEWS and S Arete SEWS - Date: 6/12/2015 Trip Report: While Audrey was sleeping in till 8:00, I was was laying out the perfect rack on our living room floor. All I think about is climbing, so it's basically an automatic response to start fiddling with my cams while at home. After getting the gear ready I made coffee and food, and like clockwork Audrey walked down stairs. "Everything is ready to go, and I think we should go to Wa pass..?" She agreed. Gotta love this girl North and South Early Winters Spires BETA: Coming from the East, we parked right after the sign that says Blue Lake TH 1/2 Mile. After gearing up we crossed the road and walked West about 200 feet until the guard rail begins again on that side of the road. From here a faint trail leads to the Blue Lake Trail. SAVING A 1/2 MILE EACH WAY. Audrey following P3 of NW Corner It was sunny and windy like the forecast predicted, however the weather man must have forgot to mention that it would hail/snow on us right after getting on route.... Audrey on P4 NW Corner The NW Corner is a very good climb. I really enjoyed how physical the crux pitch is, especially when freezing cold from lack of sun and snow falling on us. We did the route in 4 pitches then rappelled down the west face rap line. Audrey free soloing P1 of The South Arete Audrey climbing up the Camel Humps At this point the sun started showing itself again and we refueled and tryed to warm up. I convinced Audrey that the best way to warm up would be to just walk over and solo the South Arete. Although a little aprensive, Audrey said she was down. She has never free soloed anything befor. The South Arete is mellow and offers great movement meditation in a perfect setting. Summit #2 for the day She did great! the solo never really warmed us up, but it was fun. Audrey has come so far in the last 2 years. I am so happy to be able to do my favorite things with my favorite person. Descending SEWS Gear Notes: double from .3 to #3 and one #4 was great for NW Corner Approach Notes: Blue Lake Trail is snow free and the climbers trail is partly snow free
  3. [TR] Mt. Thomson - West Ridge 6/6/2015

    Nice! I climbed this earlier this year and got met by a white out conditions. Wish i could have seen the views like you guys dide
  4. Sick Dudes!! I love those routes. I am trying to get up to CBR this weekend actually.
  5. [TR] The Tooth - South Face 6/6/2015

    Dude some genius had a dog at the base of SEWS this last weekend too... Maybe respect the LAW and other peoples nature experience and leave your dogs at home?
  6. [TR] Forbidden Peak - North Ridge 6/7/2015

    Looks like a fun time dudes!
  7. [TR] Supercave, Ellen Pea rt. - 6/7/2015

    This is one of my favorite routes. such a good wall
  8. Trip: Washington Pass - West Face: NEWS, SW Rib and Hitchhiker: SEWS Date: 6/5/2015 Trip Report: Wa pass is one of my favorite places on Earth. Add in some amazing friends, pour in some sunny weather, and a dash of perfect rock climbing and you get perfection. Pitch 4 of West Face, NEWS Beau, Audie, and I left Leavenworth at about 6 in the morning and headed to Wa Pass to climb The West Face of NEWS. I have done this route before and it is SO GOOD! I led up to the crux pitch in 2 long pitches then Beau sent the crux. He climbed until the cracks petered out and made a belay. We only had a short 5.7 slab traverse between us and the summit. Short and oh so sweet! Pitch 5-6 of West Face, NEWS BETA: We rappelled about 30 feet to the climber's right of where we topped out. A handful of single rope rappels off of chain anchors will get you very close to the base of the route. This is in contrast to the guide book suggesting rappelling into the gully that holds snow for a long time. After that I floated across snow to the base of The South West Rib of SEWS. I dropped all my cumbersome, heavy climbing gear and took off on a free solo. A few parties were on route, but I was able to pass them at belays. I was able to downclimb the section that people usually rappel, right before the summit. It felt perfect; the moment meditation and situational awareness of free soloing is kida spiritual. I love making this deep inner connection while in the mountains. I down climbed the South Arete and headed back to my car. The next day was the big one for me. The Hitchhiker! I have wanted to do this route for a couple years, but I never felt strong enough to take it down without help. This year is a little different; the lack of a Winter allowed me to boulder as much as I physically could. Bouldering increased my strength as well as technical ability and it was a lot of fun too! A View of the Hitchhiker on approach We left the hairpin at about 6 in the morning and traveled on dirt and rocks most of the way to the route. We roped up and started climbing just as another group showed up from the Blue Lake TH approach. We all laughed and joked our way up one of the best routes in the state. Anya and I were even nice enough to leave our #4 in the wide crack traverse for them to clip. 11a slab pitch At first I was a little off put by the wandering nature of this line, but that actually added a lot to the flavor of the climbing. My partner Anya said the route is like a taste tester of beer because each pitch is a little different and almost every pitch is 10+ or 11- (similar alcohol percentages). We flew up the route. We topped out around 1:00, chilled in some shade near the summit and talked about life. The climbing on the Hitchhiker is very fun plus all the bolts and anchors make climb easy and safe. The route is clean, on perfect rock in a beautiful location. BETA: The Supertopo guide is kinda weird for pitch 8. Travel left up a wide but easy track once you almost reached a small tree with slings on it, look up. You will see the bolts for the 5.10 slab. Mommy and baby goat Gear Notes: Less is more. Approach Notes: Snow is consolidated and melting quickly.
  9. Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock and Aasguard Pass - Leche La Vaca (CBR) and Acid Baby Date: 5/19/2015 Trip Report: Good Climbs, Good Times. Audrey and I left the trailhead around 7 am and set a nice leisurely pace. Upon arriving at Colchuck Lake, we turned left towards the climbers path starting by the dam on the North end of the lake. We arrived at the huge boulder below Colchuck Balanced Rock a little before 11. We dropped our backpacks, ate food then headed to the base of Leche La Vaca. Audrey on pitch 2 of Leche La Vaca. We scrambled up the short chimney section of Pitch 1 and set up belay on a small ledge. I attempted to link the rest of P1 into P2 but I got held down by serious rope drag, that upgraded to a pinched rope for the follower. Oops. I finished P2 in a short pitch, ending at a chill ledge. Pitch 3 is super fun, and gives the flavor of what CBR lovingly provides (Steep splitters!). After another 5.10 pitch we got to the mellow terrain and simu-climbed to the balanced rock summit. We swung the rope up and over the boulder, so I could give Audrey a belay on the very special boulder problem, I soloed up and together we enjoyed the breathtaking views from the top. Me bouldering the balanced rock of CBR. The clouds provided us with a 5 star sunset as we sipped cocktails made of bourbon and hot coco. The full day of movement made us happy to crawl into our sleeping bags. We woke up early and started down the old approach to CBR (the one described in Select Climbs Vol 1). Our friends Phin and Madeline met us at the lake. The ladies sun bathed and drew on sketch paper as Phin and I started up the boot track of Aasgard pass. Phin high up on Acid Baby Acid baby is one of the finest climbs in the Stuart Range. I love how sustained it is; The entire route is 5.9 to 5.10+ and has amazing views. Exposed ridge travers of Acid Baby. This is the year for everyone to climb THAT climb you have always wanted to. It is time to get in shape, and start reading the guidebooks.
  10. My buddy Phin forgot his helmet at the summit plateau of Acid Baby. if anybody climbs that route soon and finds it. he will give you beers.
  11. Here is a topo I made a while ago. I used this yesterday and did not notice any big mistakes.
  12. The cam. nut, sling and locker are mine! Thank you SO much!! I climbed Outerspace and Hyperspace about two weeks ago before the little snow that fell, then went back to get on Edge of Space and the snow held us down. I owe you some beers.
  13. [TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloirs 5/11/2014

    Phin and I did this baby car to car on May 12th. WHAT A FUN CLIMB!!!! I had a HUGE smile on my face all day. We really appreciated the steps you guys put in for us
  14. new rap station on South Face Jello tower

    I in no way intended to make this into a locals versus non local argument. As you see my actions do not reflect the views of all other locals. I understand and respect everyone's opinion; just like many things in life there are two sides to the argument. Unforunitaly I already drilled the holes and placed a Fixe wedge bolt in each one. If someone feels so compelled to chop them please consider the fact that the holes are already in the rock. Removing the bolts will leave scars that will always be visible (even if you use epoxy and dust). From the bottom of my heart, I am sorry. I only intended to share climbing with people that love it as much as we do. It leaves me feeling very drained to see so many people getting upset, when I (in my mind) was trying to do good. PM me if you wanna hate some more, and stop making us all look like whinny little kids.
  15. new rap station on South Face Jello tower

    Ok guys... I placed that anchor on jello tower. I'm sorry that it ruined your day to hear about a clean two bolt anchor at a crag you never go to. I'm sorry that I destroyed your contrived opportunity to create your own TRAD anchor that you could use right befor you take it down and wait for the chains to be available on midway. Raindawg I know you had your own issue with placing bolts were someone else does not want them. I put thought into it and even got the suggestion from other leavenworth locals to put them in. So if you guys think that cascade climbers is the place to tell us how to maintain our local crags then please continue with the amusing spray. I placed the anchor as an alternative way to get off the tower. The midway anchor almost always has someone clipped through the chains. And I almost never saw people on the nose before the anchors. And next time you see a bolted anchor please make your own gear anchor. Not just on jello tower but everywhere, forever. Just like they used to do it. But you better not leave any fixed gear or ill start a new forum
  16. Trip: Colchuck Peak - Northeast Buttress FWA Date: 3/8/2013 Trip Report: We never get to relive these moments in life. Even Though you may be scared or anxious from thoughts that bubble out from your own mind, the focus should be centered on enjoying the climb and to remind ourselves that that is why we are here and this is what it takes to accomplish these goals we have. Sometimes its not the most enjoyable times but the ending result can be life changing. I have been fortunate enough to partner up with Jens on a few demanding climbs. His ethic and focus are inspirational to say the least. The seriousness that overtakes Jens as he hammers incredible and often quite hard on-sights in the mountains is unreal. He becomes a warrior and fights for what he believes in, and that is ground up alpine ascents. I heard somewhere that "It's not what you do, but how you do it." Jens, just keep doing your thing man. We took off from Icicle canyon at daybreak on Friday. The sky was clear and the sun was shining on the snow-covered Stuart Range; who could ask for more than that? We took our first real break In the middle of Colchuck Lake, and from there we could for the most part see our line up the NEB of Colchuck Peak. After Lunch we began the approach to the buttress. The snow was soft and slowed down our pass a bit, but we were hyped to see a group of skiers that were tearing the place up. At least someone enjoyed the snow conditions that day. We got to the moraine and looked at the time. It was a little before 2:00 and Jens felt we could make it to the intended bivy spot: one that he had used on a previous attempt with Dan Hilden. We climbed two difficult mixed pitched to get to the bivy as the sun was setting. We brought out the headlamps and got to kickin’. Unfortunately we encountered rocks that hindered us from making an adequately sized platform to fit the Firstlight tent. We ended up tying the guy lines on one side of the tent to make it narrower, "We can for sure fit our feet over there" A picture of me standing where our tent was “just fitting" That morning Jens proceeded to throw down on 4 pitches of traversing "The snow ramps" We encountered soft snow, which was not ideal but it worked out. Next came the two slab pitches. The sun was shining on us as we wandered up the snow-covered slab into the beautiful left facing corner. One of the most breath taking features on the route was the next pitch; this for us was pitch 9. A beautifully stacked narrow snow fin with mass exposure on either side. We simul-climbed this pitch into what would have been at least one more pitch with a large chimney. At this point Jens looks at me and says "Lets get the headlamps out. We are going to summit this thing." There was nothing in the world I wanted to hear more than that. We figured we had 2 or 3 pitches to go, and at this point calmness came over me and I really enjoyed the last pitches spent on the buttress. We finished in 2 pitches making a total of 12 (I think). After reaching the false summit we decided to spend the night a few hundred feet from where we topped out. After dropping the bags we walked over to the true summit turned the headlamps off and soaked in this moment that we will only live once. Gear Notes: We brought a double rack of C3s to #2 plus one #3 and #4 Camalots, and some pins. Approach Notes: Gate is closed. Nice packed in trail to the Colchuck Lake.
  17. [TR] Three Fingers - east face couloir 3/9/2013

    sick photos! and sick trip!
  18. [TR] Colchuck Peak - Colchuck Glacier w/ ski descent 3/9/2013

    Nice to meet you dudes up there. Jens and I climbed Colchuck Peak. I made a TR, check it out!
  19. McClellan Peak(Enchantments): mixed/ice potential?

    I am pretty sure Jens Holsten has tried/done a mixed climb or to on that face.
  20. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs and Gerber Sink 3/9/2013

    bedellympian: I just posted the TR of Jens and I on the NEB check it out!
  21. Thanks Wayne for the fun day yesterday. Thanks Vern and Craig for hooking the masses up with beta!
  22. Just a friendly bit of information to anyone planning on traveling into the Stuart/Colchuck side of the Enchantments; I encountered tracks traveling along the trail a short distance before the intersection to travel to stuart or colchuck this morning. I was traveling alone otherwise it would not have been as big of a deal. I know cougar tracks are not certain death but just passing it along. And the snow is almost knee deep up there
  23. [TR] - Cascades Various 10/19/2012

    Trip: Stuart Range, Ingalls Peak, Mt, Baring - Various Date: 10/19/2012 Trip Report: With the alpine rock season slowly winding down to an end for the Cascades, I am finding myself reflecting on all the amazing memories shared with amazing people. Thank you to everyone who roped up with me this year and brought the stoke. I am blessed to have such experienced climbers taking me along with them and showing me the way of the "new school washington climbers." My passion for the mountains drew me back often two or more times a week to find what ever it is that we are all looking for. Alpinists search for that something as they travel up into the highest parts of our world; in a way they are searching for the deepest parts of themselves. After the photos I'm going to include a list of my 2012 summer ascents. Here are a few pictures of me and my friends enjoying a life of reverie. West Face of Mt. Stuart. Grant on GITM What a life we live Madeline below N Ingalls Lady M cruising South Ridge of North Ingalls Peak Me on N. Ingalls with Mount Stuart in the back ground Eric's way of dealing with the #6 on Backbone Ridge on Dragontail Peak A very messed up photo of Eric on the Fin of Dragontail Strolling by the Enchantment basin after Backbone Ridge Jens Holsten starting the Vanishing Point. Full write up here http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/ Its been a wild day belaying Jens on VP Cuttrought peak in the Fall during a solo assault on the area Winespires up top and Le Petit Chevil on the left of the lower formation Looking back down the S. Arete of SEWS \ Me having to much fun on the W. Face of NEWS This is not in chronological order but i think this all of them. I included Snow Creek Wall routes as well. Prusik Peak: West Ridge (twice), Burgner/Stanley, Der Sportsman (4/6 pitches) Colchuck Area: North Buttress Couloir (solo C2C 6 hours), Acid Baby, The Valkyre (3rd ascent) Mount Stuart: Gorillas In The Mist, Upper North Ridge, Girth Pillar (by way of Lower North Ridge, I was the belayer), Gorillas In The Mist (first one day ascent to the summit) Colchuck Balanced Rock: West Face (twice), Nectar Dragontail Peak: Backbone Ridge With Fin Direct Rat Creek Group: North Face of The Mole Snow Creek Wall: Orbit, Outer Space, Mary Jane Dihedral, Champagne, Iconoclast-Psycopath- Edge of space. Ingalls Peak: South Ridge of North Ingalls Peak Liberty Bell: Becky Route South Early Winters Spire: Direct East Buttress, South Arete (solo linked with LPC in a day) North Early Winters Spire: West Face Le Petit Cheval: Spontaneity Arete (onsight solo linked with SEWS in a day) Mount Buckner: South East Ridge Johannesburg Mountain: North East Rib (C2C) Mount Baring: Vanishing Point (I was the belayer) Guye Peak: Improbable Traverse (linked with The Tooth in a day) The Tooth: South Face (linked with Guye Peak in a day) Pingora: South East Buttress-K Cracks, North East Face Hay Stack: Minor Dihedral
  24. [TR] - Cascades Various 10/19/2012

    I work odds and end jobs, usually under the table. It gets me by; I believe that wealth is to be measured by experience and compassion opposed to dollar value. And for the "onisight solo" I seriously looked on Supertopo, found a 5.7 and decided to solo it. Thats about as much of an onsight as there is. It was super dooper fun none the less. Then after spontaneity I climbed S. Arete of SEWS, which i have downclimbed before. Just one of the many grey areas in climbing. After all, Who's Countin' on the mountain?
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