ivan Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 thinking of the ultimate link up this week, a pure merging of lame-aid w/ ghey-sport-wanking - liberty crack n' infinite bliss - no problems w/ liberty of course, as i'm good n' fat like all aid climbers oughta be already, but this sport shit, man! i ain't got no lcrya n' all my draws are skerry faded dyneemas - my question: if'n i'm too chubby to get through the .10 pitches, how easy to french'em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 thinking of the ultimate link up this week, a pure merging of lame-aid w/ ghey-sport-wanking - liberty crack n' infinite bliss - no problems w/ liberty of course, as i'm good n' fat like all aid climbers oughta be already, but this sport shit, man! i ain't got no lcrya n' all my draws are skerry faded dyneemas - my question: if'n i'm too chubby to get through the .10 pitches, how easy to french'em? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJiksa9xoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Not very. Go extra early... as the route gets sun the slab heats up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 i'll coat meself in crisco then n' eat an extra-big bowl of wheaties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 should have entitled the thread "stay off infinite bliss and liberty crack this weekend" - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 more like this work-week, olde boye; i have better sense than to try to rub ghey chicken-wings w/ actual sport or aid-climbers, and i do have the whole goddamn summer off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 If you're looking for the aid experience why not go for Thin Red Line instead of Lib Crack? Then you'll have to wear those fruity and painful rock dancin' shoes even less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 "5.10" pitches on IB are fun and soft for the grade, and you're more in danger of z-clipping than having to break out the cheater stick for aiding. It's key to be first on the route and go at night or on a cloudy day to avoid cooking in the S facing sun (though you survived Yos at 90+ so this will be a cake walk). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crux Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 z-clipping with a cheater stick is aid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 looking for beta on IB on CC.com is aid....... what ever happened to climbing something and then just talking about it afterwards (sigh) the interwebs have kinda taken the fun out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 nah, i can ask for all the advice i want on the internet and it won't matter, 'cuz i'll usually be wildly intoxicated and incapable of remembering anything soon thereafter anyhows - the initial question was just important for sorting out the quantity and variety of said intoxicant to be required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 ivan, ur a beauty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 looking for beta on IB on CC.com is aid....... what ever happened to climbing something and then just talking about it afterwards (sigh) the interwebs have kinda taken the fun out of it Old School'n, ZZ Top MOFO, lay'n the Pink paint stripes ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 They are 4 hours apart by car. Not a very good link up IMO and I thought the first 5.10 pitch was hard for the grade....but I am a wimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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