Lambone Posted December 8, 2002 Posted December 8, 2002 Since Loren is too modest to cheastbeat here, i thought I'd do it for him. Nice climbing fellas, those photos bring back great memories for me. I hope to be headed that way in t minus 7 days and counting. Cheers http://cascadeclimber.com/hyalite_nov_30-dec_2.htm By the way, what bars did you guys visit? Quote
bolt_clipper Posted December 8, 2002 Posted December 8, 2002 Lucky bastard. I'm stuck studying. Then back to Oregon for Christmas. Quote
dbb Posted December 8, 2002 Posted December 8, 2002 Seeing as we were the "strait edge climbing team" (aka the 3:45 am alarm team), we only made it to the bar one of the two nights. We ended up at the pub which has good food as well. However, there aren't open container laws to hamper the post-climb celebration! I've also put some pictures up on my site, if you need more! btw, cleopatras needle was a slush-cicle. The lower pitch wasn't even touching down... But had Jens been there, it wouldn't have mattered much. Quote
Lambone Posted December 9, 2002 Author Posted December 9, 2002 3:45!!! Shit, know wonder you guys didn't see anyone out there! Yeah the lower pitch rarely touches down, and it's often drippin cause it gets that mid-day sun, sorta like a normal day in Lilooet. But its worth getting soaked for that route! Glad you guys had fun! Quote
Lambone Posted December 23, 2002 Author Posted December 23, 2002 Hyalite is in pretty good shape. Most of the standard climbs are in fat. There is no snow up there, the driest I've ever seen it for this time of year. As a result, many freeze thaw dependent climbs are non-existant, like Mummy 4, and other sick/scary testpieces. Unfortunately, due to the easy access and lack of skiing, Hyalite is also quite crowded. We got skunked going to the Dribbles two days in a row. If you have your heart set on being the first ones to a route, better set your alarm for 3:45 like the Cascadeclimber crew. Most of the moderate classics are heavily picked out... Still we had a great trip, hanging with old friends and trying to pretend that we're in shape! Quote
CascadeClimber Posted December 23, 2002 Posted December 23, 2002 Got any pictures for us gapers?? Quote
Lambone Posted December 23, 2002 Author Posted December 23, 2002 Naw, sorry. The only pictures we took wer of the Sceptor, and there is a five or six roll waiting list before they are developed... Some day I'll go digital, but probly not any time soon...spent too much $ on gear Quote
jja Posted December 23, 2002 Posted December 23, 2002 Lambone, How far can an ordinary car get up the road? Quote
Lambone Posted December 23, 2002 Author Posted December 23, 2002 jja, You could get to the trailhead in anything, 2wd...no clearence...whatever. There are no ruts yet, as of Saturday. It's pretty icy though. Have fun! Quote
jja Posted December 23, 2002 Posted December 23, 2002 thanks, let's see, leave after work on friday at 3pm, get there by what - 1am? Sleep in the car, climb sat and sun, leave say around 4 or 5 on Sunday, be back here about 3am on Monday, couple o' hours sleep and back to work. Sounds doable right? -john Quote
thelawgoddess Posted December 23, 2002 Posted December 23, 2002 pretty!!! and at a mere 10.5 hours away ... Quote
jja Posted December 23, 2002 Posted December 23, 2002 so that's going to be 21 hours of driving for what - maybe 15, 20 pitches if we're lucky. Maybe someone should invent a new rating system that's a ratio of driving time to feet of elevation gained or something. Imagine the possibilities. Quote
Lambone Posted December 24, 2002 Author Posted December 24, 2002 We left Seattle at 3pm and hit the Hyalite parking lot at 3am. Took 12hrs on the way home too. In good conditions. But we had 5 days to climb so it was totaly worth it. You'd be kickin ass if you could get 20 pitches in during two days. On a weekend that would be nearly impossible even if you were superman, due to the crowds. Or did you mean 20 laps? Quote
jja Posted December 24, 2002 Posted December 24, 2002 Hey after two years I just made miniwanker! I am superman, hear me roar Quote
IceIceBaby Posted December 25, 2002 Posted December 25, 2002 Common any good western can show an eastern some good ice Im well behave and ready to help with anything ( )+ I have my own ice rack Quote
jja Posted December 26, 2002 Posted December 26, 2002 ok ice ice baby, here's my super secret ice beta, ... the next time you're reaching for one of these open the door just north of the one you're reaching for. this Sat I plan to see if I can find some non-freon assisted ice in WA. Quote
jja Posted December 30, 2002 Posted December 30, 2002 If the 700 mile drive sounds appealing the road to the parking lot was drivable in a taurus, and the warm weather (in the 30's during the day) has fattened up the ice - compared to a couple of weeks ago according to the locals. climbing driving Quote
IceIceBaby Posted December 30, 2002 Posted December 30, 2002 What an awesome place that is (reminding me NH) also most climbs were in. any way after admirable drive by john we got there (I don’t drive…true New Yorker woss) and did some great climbing (I just find the approach to be the crux of the climb…again NY woss) and got John to do some mix climbing on TR it seems that he liked it…(more to come??) So, I did had my first ice climbing for the season and it was great Thanx John!!! Quote
icegirl Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 page top... anyone know how things are looking there? I am thinking I gotta get there in Feb... Quote
freeclimb9 Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 check http://www.montanaice.com/icecond.php Quote
Lambone Posted January 13, 2003 Author Posted January 13, 2003 You should go. There definately will be ice to climb in Feb. Access may be a problem into Hyalite if it snows much between now and then, but in the past few years the road has been drivable for most of the season. If Hyalite is shut down to cars, Pine Creek and Cooke City are both accessible without much trouble. Cody isn't much farther than Bozeman 3.5 hrs and has the best Ice in the lower 48 with no road issues. Have fun! Quote
Skisports Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 I will probably in the area next week some time. I will give some beta if I head up... I will be moving three hours from Hyalite. Dave Quote
rbw1966 Posted January 14, 2003 Posted January 14, 2003 I'm headed there this weekend. Will post conditions upon return. Quote
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