Crackman Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Scouted the north side routes early Thanksgiving day. Most looked in good shape, well covered in snow. Returned friday night with two others to give one of them a go. We started the approach at 10pm hoping to climb most of the route before sunrise (and minimize the chance of getting clobbered by rockfall). With an inversion in effect, the air temp was a balmy 45-50 deg. We dropped down on the Elliot glacier and were able to navigate our way around crevasses by sticking high on the left side. The plan was to move from left to right across the face, considering each potential route (North Face variations, Elliot headwall, and finally Sunshine) until we found the one we wanted to commit to. Having forgotten the photographs and route descriptions in the car combined with an approach in complete darkness led to some uncertainty as to where the North Face routes actually began. We decided to start up the face by traversing across a short section of frozen rock then climbing up the first snow shoot that we believed led to the leftmost Couloir. The next 2000 ft of the climb was a series of running belays on steep snow (~50-55 deg.) with the occasional picket or rock gear placement. The snow was firm, perfect for front-pointing, sometimes taking the shaft at other times the pick. When the sun finally came up, we realized that we had been drifting to the left and were now close to the Cooper Spur Route, so we angled back right towards the true face. The summit was strangely isolated for such a fine morning. The sun was warm, no wind, and clear views in all directions. Surprisingly, there was still no one coming up from the south side. When we got down to the Pearly Gates we learned why. Awaiting us was a short steep section of loose rock and ice, which dared to be crossed. It was a pretty sketchy down-climb, definitely the crux of the whole climb. The rockfall on the south side was also getting pretty bad by midmorning. Had the luxury of a friend to meet us at Timberline and drive us back around to our car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Nice TR...good climb, congrates! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 She's looking better everyday. Crackman, Thanks for the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 nice fuckin' picture!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 No shit!!! I think I just put some man-goo in my pants. God I hate work. That shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 spectacular photo, dude! summits are sweet!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 no doubt...truly fucking fantastic picture...i assume you took this from the west moraine of the elliot? shitload more snow in those couloirs then when i was there last...now if only i could find a way around this work thing without encountering that poverty thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackman Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 You are correct. Taken with the early morning sun on Thanksgiving. Now you see why I had to return to climb it the next day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Nice photo crackman, can you drive to Cloud Cap, or is the road gated? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I heard it was such a riveting climb that one person in your party fell asleep. Ha ha, I'm just envious T.H. Quite an outstanding pic too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackman Posted December 6, 2002 Author Share Posted December 6, 2002 Gates Open -- leave the sportscar behind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esteban Posted December 12, 2002 Share Posted December 12, 2002 Great TR Tim. I can't wait to go back and get the gully we were shooting for.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linebacker Posted December 14, 2002 Share Posted December 14, 2002 Crackster and este, Was glad to be there on the other side to pick you boyz up at T-Line. Pretty much all the adventure I can enjoy with a busted ankle. Hopin' to catch that left gulley with you cats when I am out of this f'in cast. Or when they let me strap some campons to it LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 15, 2002 Share Posted December 15, 2002 Adventure Pimpz in da Hizouse!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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