Winter FAs in Cascades?

[JasonG]

The last two winters were pretty unsettled as I remember them....with some huge avi cycles.

[John_Scurlock]

 

5,000 different great mixed and ice routes on the 5000' - 7000' peaks.

 

that's the gods truth believe me..

 

You've done more to unveil those lines than anyone I know, thanks!

 

you know, I've been fortunate like you can't believe.. Darin's comment reminded me of the literally countless times I've seen ice threads rising up some nameless cliff, ending in the middle of some other nameless cliff...out in the middle of absolute nowheresville.. I can't remember who I was with, Wayne, Dave B, or it could have been Darin in a conversation we had, who said that very thing - 'Ice to Nowhere'.. unbelievable how much of it is out there. But in many cases, so hard or impossible to get to.

[sepultura]

Its hard to have a serious look at unclimbed winter ascents without thinking about Lincoln, sure some folks have skied it recently but not in Winter shape.

And so close to the road....

[sepultura]

....To the best of my knowledge, the only route that has ever been climbed on Lincoln is the X Couloir. Its a good thing Lincoln did not make the top 100 peaks in WA, due to its classification as sub-peak of Baker, cause if it had, a lot less people would be completing that list!

[OlegV]

Not on this list:

 

http://alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

 

Thank you, Lowell for sharing this information! My understanding is that ski approach is often the crux of winter ascents. How many trailheads are open in winter? Eldorado TH, also one at the base of J-burg. Then, we are talking about 15-40 miles of X-country skiing.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Not on this list:

 

http://alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

 

Interesting list. I searched on Rainier and did not see some common routes I'd expect. The list is not exaustive is it?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Not on this list:

 

http://alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

 

Thank you, Lowell for sharing this information! My understanding is that ski approach is often the crux of winter ascents. How many trailheads are open in winter? Eldorado TH, also one at the base of J-burg. Then, we are talking about 15-40 miles of X-country skiing.

 

Hwy 20 is open to MP 134 from the West. This gives you access to Colonial (MP130) and stuff close to there.

[G-spotter]

The list is not exaustive is it?

 

If this list is the same one (didn't check) from the appendix to John Scurlock's book then there is quite a bit missing.

[Off_White]

Pretty sure that's been ticked in the winter

 

It seems that Colin's done it, maybe someone else, though I couldn't find a TR.

 

 

Steve Mascioli & Bill Pilling way back in the day.

Edited October 24, 2012 by Off_White

[Lowell_Skoog]

http://alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

The list is not exaustive is it?

If this list is the same one (didn't check) from the appendix to John Scurlock's book then there is quite a bit missing.

Yes it's the list from Snow & Spire. But I've updated it since the book was published. Also, the list on line covers the entire range while the one in the book has only the North Cascades.

 

The list is as exhaustive as I could make it based on Beckey's guides and a few other sources. (See notes at the bottom of the page.) If you know of routes that I've omitted, let me know and I'll update the list on the web.

 

[Lowell_Skoog]

Also, see the following list of routes not yet reported in CAG or NWMJ. I see only one FWA there. Eventually I'll update the winter route list from this.

 

http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/inbox.html

 

[OlegV]

A big question is whether some of these WFAs used helicopter drop-offs? I think to fully qualify as a WFA, the climb should involve winter approach as well.

[G-spotter]

http://alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

The list is not exaustive is it?

If this list is the same one (didn't check) from the appendix to John Scurlock's book then there is quite a bit missing.

Yes it's the list from Snow & Spire. But I've updated it since the book was published. Also, the list on line covers the entire range while the one in the book has only the North Cascades.

 

The list is as exhaustive as I could make it based on Beckey's guides and a few other sources. (See notes at the bottom of the page.) If you know of routes that I've omitted, let me know and I'll update the list on the web.

 

It's missing so much stuff I don't know where to start, Lowell. I see at least a half dozen routes just from the red CAG you don't even have in there.

[Lowell_Skoog]

It's missing so much stuff I don't know where to start, Lowell. I see at least a half dozen routes just from the red CAG you don't even have in there.

 

That's not very helpful.

 

If you know of routes that are missing, could you please post them here or email them to me?

 

Start by starting...

 

[G-spotter]

Where are winter routes from CAG on Silvertip, Rideout, Sumallo, Payne, Pierce, Brice, Thar, Outram?

[G-spotter]

And then what about the FWAs of Yak Crack and Yak Check, NE Ridge of Needle, etc?

[G-spotter]

Tomyhoi north face?

[G-spotter]

Nesakwatch Spires?

[Alex]

Gosh Buck Mnt North Face I still remember that when Rolf posted it, so proud.

[Pete_H]

Pretty sure he and Dan used a heli drop off for the approach though.

[Pete_H]

They also did it in November so not really a winter ascent.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Where are winter routes from CAG on Silvertip, Rideout, Sumallo, Payne, Pierce, Brice, Thar, Outram?

 

Thanks for those. I've updated my chronology. I've also updated my online essay somewhat. The essay can be found here:

 

http://www.alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/index.html

 

and the chronology can be found here:

 

http://www.alpenglow.org/themes/ncascade-winter/chronology.html

 

Obviously I didn't give enough attention to the peaks north of the U.S.-Canada border when I searched through CAG.

 

[Lowell_Skoog]

And then what about the FWAs of Yak Crack and Yak Check, NE Ridge of Needle, etc?

...

Tomyhoi north face?

...

Nesakwatch Spires?

 

I don't see those in CAG. I also searched in my DVD copy of "Ever Upward" (CAJ 1907-2007) and didn't find winter climbs on these peaks. Where were these climbs reported?

 

[Lowell_Skoog]

They also did [buck] in November so not really a winter ascent.

 

True. (Well, actually December 4.)

 

When I compiled my chronology, I broadened the scope to include autumn and spring climbs done under winter snow/ice conditions. This is mentioned in the notes at the bottom of the chronology.

 

This pulled in a number of good climbs on Greybeard, Cutthroat, Dragontail, Stuart, Eldorado, Shuksan, Summit Chief, and Buck. I don't know which of these may have been done in calendar winter.

[G-spotter]

And then what about the FWAs of Yak Crack and Yak Check, NE Ridge of Needle, etc?

...

Tomyhoi north face?

...

Nesakwatch Spires?

 

I don't see those in CAG. I also searched in my DVD copy of "Ever Upward" (CAJ 1907-2007) and didn't find winter climbs on these peaks. Where were these climbs reported?

 

Yak Check was by Wayne and Lane and is on here somewhere and in AAJ. Yak Crack's earlier ascent was mentioned there too.

Nesakwatch Spires was reported in the CAJ and also here by Andrew Rennie. Needle 's NE ridge was FWA shortly after the Coq opened by Max de Jong and a large party and is reported in the CAJ

I don't know that Tomyhoi N Face's first winter ascent has been properly recorded but it has been climbed in winter, skiied and snowboarded multiple times, all accessed via Tamihi FSR.

 

Obviously there's also other CAG recorded winter ascent stuff I didn't mention yesterday like Nodoubt, Guardian east face and what not too.