mhux Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I was stoking on the idea of this classic today, but realized most trip reports say 'late season' is late august (maybe early september)...anyone know how it might be in a week or so? I figure the glaciers might be a hassle and the snow traverse will be solid alpine ice, if not melted out choss, but other than that I can only speculate. Also, if any of you have done it car2car in a (long) day and have any tips worth considering, lets hear it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Â My advice would be to not underestimate how long it takes to get up Torment and down to the rap (and plan a turnaround time if you are way off on your guess). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 days might be kinda short for this long a climb as a 1-day car-to-car this late in the year... Â that said, there are great bivvy ledges along the traverse - spectacular setting... what's your hurry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 Its a 7 hour drive to get there for me and I've got 8am class on monday...plus it'd be good fun to single push it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) days might be kinda short for this long a climb as a 1-day car-to-car this late in the year... that said, there are great bivvy ledges along the traverse - spectacular setting... what's your hurry?  That's why God created headlamps. It extends the day on both ends as fitness, logistics, and conditions allow. Edited September 28, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 days might be kinda short for this long a climb as a 1-day car-to-car this late in the year... that said, there are great bivvy ledges along the traverse - spectacular setting... what's your hurry?  That's why God created headlamps. It extends the day on both ends as fitness, logistics, and conditions allow.  That's the idea...but will the route be in condition? Better conditions= more route in light= less headlamps (awesome or not) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 I'm pretty average fitness and having done the route in July took about 11 hours round trip from Boston Basin. Figure another 2.5 hours up and 1.5 hours down from the trailhead to Boston Basin for a total of 15-16 hours which I think is pretty average for a car to car attempt of a competent and fit party. Â The snow in the north cascades is much deeper than what you'd expect in September. Looks more like a mid-summer snow pack on an average year. You might call the Marblemount Ranger Station and ask if they've got any recent conditions updates. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Thanks Bronco, that's good to know. Ranger station...of course! Good call, I forgot about that resource. Â Has anyone done the traverse recently with conditions beta? First-hand info would be appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MX Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I agree that it is not too late for a one-day, C2C ascent. Start super early and you should get off by dark. You can gauge your progress by your "split" times. I did the route years ago in 9:39 C2C. Our time from car to top of Torment at 3:15, so about one third of the time. So just triple your time from the top of Torment and do the math. The snow should be super firm, but the rock will be dry and the descent down the east "ridge" should be good as well. Don't descend the W Ridge, less pure and more time consuming. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Less pure? Never climbed Forbidden before so we were planning on downclimbing the west ridge...heard the east ledges is scrappy Good advice though, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 You haven't sent yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 I agree that it is not too late for a one-day, C2C ascent. Start super early and you should get off by dark. You can gauge your progress by your "split" times. I did the route years ago in 9:39 C2C. Our time from car to top of Torment at 3:15, so about one third of the time. So just triple your time from the top of Torment and do the math. The snow should be super firm, but the rock will be dry and the descent down the east "ridge" should be good as well. Don't descend the W Ridge, less pure and more time consuming. Â It would take me 3 hours just to get to the base of the Torment climb. Shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 You haven't sent yet? Â This coming Saturday. Just posted in advance to try and solidify beta...if nothing else I'll have a conditions report on Sunday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MX Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 The East Ridge descent is easier, and avoids the snow gully which precedes the West Ridge. You don't go down the ridge proper, you go down five (or six?) one-rope raps which are low angle (Some people down climb them, but it's tedious and slow and more dangerous, so why bother?) After the last rappel, you go rappeller's left across ledge systems toward the base of the east ridge, aiming for the obvious notch at the base of the west ridge. There are many ways to go, but it goes quickly, and deposits you at the notch, which is followed by a very straightforward descent into the basin. There is a good picture of the "pure" ridge traverse in Fifty Favorite Climbs under the Jim Nelson chapter. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MX Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Given the time of year, I would bring lightweight spikes to use with lightweight boots, but a beefier axe with some heft in the shaft and pick, and two pickets. You may want to do a running belay on the steep snow traverse. Once you get off of that (which I think of as "the crux") you'll be all on rock, and near the "sidewalk in the sky" section which is super cool. From there, it's the standard W Ridge and east ridge descent, and lots of Cascade talus surfing and steep trail back to the car. Good luck. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Cool stuff, thanks for the beta MX Be back with a trip report Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 I'd say and just try it, even if you epic it will be fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Went up there to give it a shot, the Taboo glacier under Torment was pretty small but a 20' wide berg blocked passage to the SE face, and a sketchy deep moat basically blocked off access to the S ridge...we ended up passing the berg on the right via some 4th class and got onto the SE face with some scary soloing on smooth low-5th class to gain the 3rd/4th on the face. Figured we had spent too much time already climbing Torment, we decided to bail and rap it, adding into consideration the likely glacier/berg problems on the snow traverses, and our lack of bivy gear or experience rapping the east ledges and descending Forbidden in general. Bottom line: I'd wait until next year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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