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Mazama


dan_e

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Climbed a nice three pitch route past Goat Wall on Thursday, up from the gate creek drainage.

Goat's Beard is forming and looks impressive, but it still has a way to go before it's fully formed. The Mazama area has lots of potential, too bad it's so damn far away!

Dan E.

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It was a bit rambly, but had some steep sections, I would say around 3+ depending on the exact line and about 170m from the first ice. Most of the ice was newly formed and was either really good or really bad and the top outs on the steep sections were a bit nasty consisting of cruddy snow and rock underneath in places. The start consisted of working around a thin ice dome with a good flow of water underneath, you had to completely avoid stepping on it and even after that it was easy WI 2 ice for a bit, but the ice was really fragile so I pretty much stayed off of it and climbed a bit on the rock (rock pro could be useful in places). After this was a short WI 3 step and then more rambly cruddy ice/snow. The last pitch is the biggest ice and is WI 3+/4 harder to the left which was not formed well enough for me, so I climbed the shorter WI 3+ ice to the right, which was still challenging due to the continued cruddy ice in places, but pro was decent. Funny thing was the garden hose we saw on the last rappel, it appeared to connect to the water source, but I could not locate the end. It's obvious someone is trying to make more climbs there, but it does not appear to be working.

There is a line on the way to this climb that would be amazing if it formed, probably a 100+ free standing column, about 60' from the rock if it were to touch down!

If anyone plans to head up there I can provide more details (for a price of course - j/k).

Dan E.

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I think the problem may lie in the URL for the image. I tried copying it through checking "image properties" and I could not get it to load. It looks to me as if street may have used the abbreviated address as it appears when he is viewing his own account, or something like that.

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Here's another photo from gate greek. This one is of the top (3rd) pitch taken from the rappel tree at the top of the 2nd pitch.

I was there the week before Dan but the ice was pretty much as he described it. The short waterfall and ramble first pitch was mostly water so we had to climbed mixed rock/bush/snow just to the right.

Img_1469.jpg

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