[TR] Triple Couloirs - Dragontail 5/27/2012

[bonathanjarrett]

Trip: Triple Couloirs - Dragontail

 

Date: 5/27/2012

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Triple Couloir on Saturday. We found the route in pretty excellent shape for the end of May. The couloirs were superb snice bottom to top allowing us to solo all but two sections in just 3.5 hours. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

 

Route overview:

 

Close up of Runnels:

 

Looking down the first couloir:

 

Runnels from below. Call them in. Call them out. Call them what you will:

 

Option #2 Gulley:

 

Looking back at the 5.8 traverse which was spicy fun:

 

Slab from 2nd to 3rd Couloir:

 

Midway up the 3rd Couloir:

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

60 meter rope

1-10 nuts

6 cams from .25"-2.5"

1 knifeblade/1 bugaboo

 

Approach Notes:

We were able to go car to car in under 10 hours due to snow free trail, great conditions on route, and firm snow for the descent off the backside.

[ivan]

ain't fair to have that thare route so simple!

[DPS]

I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

Edited May 31, 2012 by DPS

[Verticolorful]

Way to get after it!!

 

I'm glad that your memory card was not damaged, so you could add to the CC stoke. That route looks so amazing I for sure need to do it next year!

[Bronco]

10 hours car to car? :tup:

[bonathanjarrett]

Yup.

[Bronco]

Sounds like your feet are healed up from the ultra -

[G-spotter]

I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

 

The last 5 years have definitely* seen a change in snowpack accumulation locally, with less snow in early winter (up to January) and more snow late in winter through to May.

 

* verified from automated snowpack pillows, but not long enough of a trend to be statistically significant yet.

[ColinB]

Good times! Glad to see you made it up there and in excellent time to boot.

[123tom]

Nice climb!

 

[tazswing]

The traverse was for sure spicy. Very impressed with that lead. Super fun route, amazing feeling of exposure looking back down towards the lake. No ticks on the snow, either...

[genepires]

in the photo with the 5.8 traverse, I can see what looks like a old avi debris that poured onto the frozen lake. Looks like torn apart trees deposited onto the ice. Is this what it looks like? While certainly possible, I have never seen avi debris in that part of the area. (which is a nice bivy area in winter)

[bonathanjarrett]

You are correct that it is avi debris with broken trees that is scattered fifty yards or more out onto the lake. There was actually a second one as well that is not in the picture.