Mount Adams Climb

[milzey344]

Friends: I would like to come out West and attempt Mount Adams. I'm planning on a two day July climb, one night at Lunch Counter. I have climbed a few Eastern peaks (winter)and am in reasonably good shape. I have not climber higher than 6500 feet.

 

Advice? Hard climb? How technical? How cold will it be? Do I need puffy coat and mittens? How much water should I drag along? Should I camp at Lunch Counter or in another spot?. Any words of advice would be greatly appreciated!

[rob]

I assume you mean the south spur? Super non-technical. A strong climber can go car to car in a day, but some people like to camp at lunch counter to "acclimate," but personally I find that spending an extra 12 hours at altitude doesn't seem to help, it seems to make it worse -- so I'm more of a "get it over with quick" kind of guy. I hear lunch counter is the place to stay, so expect crowds.

 

I brought a puffy but didn't use it. That's probably what everyone does. That stuff always depends on the weather. But in July with good weather don't expect to be wearing anything warm on the ascent. Wear sunscreen and bring shorts if the weather is nice.

 

Obviously, I have no idea how much water you drink. I like to drink a lot. Luckily, snow is made of water.

 

Remember not to wear crampons when you glissade back down. Also, it's easy to miss the trail back to the parking lot on the way down if you don't pay attention, especially when the trail is under snow. If you do that, you'll end up wandering around the woods. It happens. Just go back up if it does, and get back on the right path.

[DPS]

You will want to carry two - three liters on the hike from the parking lot to the Lunch Counter, as well as on summit day. You will need to drink another three or four liters at camp and another in the morning at breakfast.

 

If it isn't entirely obvious, bring a stove to melt water from snow. Carrying enough water for a two day climb is simply not feasible.

 

The Lunch Counter is the most popular camp site for the South Spur. I would bring a lightweight, hooded Primaloft belay jacket and warm gloves. Might not need it, but in bad weather you may need it. 20 degrees is probably the coldest you can realistically expect on the summit, but that would be unusually cold for July.

 

One thing I have noticed is due to Mt Adam's proximity to the Columbia River Gorge and Hood River (world famous kite and sail boarding), the summit is unusually windy relative to other stratovolcanoes in the PNW, making it seem colder than it is.

 

Relative to Mt Hood, Mt Baker, or Mt Rainier, South Spur on Mt Adams is the least technical. If this is your first big snow and ice climb, or if you have no waterfall climbing experience it will seem more technical than it really is. I would definitely bring an ice axe and crampons and have practice in using them. The snow may have melted out by then, but this is a rather big snow year and I wouldn't count on it.

Edited April 20, 2012 by DPS

[milzey344]

Thank you so very much for the information. Very helpful. Yes, it is the South Spur route (183?).

[DPS]

You are welcome.

[Fromage]

South spur of Adams is a fun outing. I second the advice on making the trip in a single push (I think my car-to-car time was about 12 hours) but if you're coming from the east coast then the experience of camping on the side of a volcano is one to enjoy even if it means a heavier pack.

 

Conditions are usually pretty favorable in July, although be prepared for the possibility of whiteout conditions. Don't forget your permit, which you can pick up from the USFS ranger station in Randle.

 

A light down jacket is a good idea to bring and a sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or so depending on your personal comfort.

 

The climb is not technically demanding. In July you will hike a ways on trail, then the rest is hiking on snow and you'll probably see some patches of rock exposed around the lunch counter. Go slow, enjoy yourself, enjoy the views. Ice axe and crampons are not necessary, a trekking pole or two might be more useful.

 

If you can time your trip this way you will avoid some of the crowds (assuming you are going on a weekend): arrive in Randle in the evening before you start your climb to get a permit and check in at the ranger station. Camp at the trailhead. Wake up early and hike to the lunch counter in the cooler part of the day. You'll have the pick of campsites for your tent. Then wake up early and head for the summit while the snow is still firm. Slushy soft snow is more energy intensive to hike in.

 

The descent from the summit can be made more entertaining by glissading down long stretches of snow. You may see some chutes in the snow made by previous glissaders. Zooming down these on your bum can be fast and fun, but it can also be a quick way to injure yourself if you slide into piles of rocks.

 

Reaching the trailhead is easier in a high-clearance vehicle. You don't need a 4x4 to get there, but the road is beat up.

 

Have fun!

[dougd]

All good suggestions above. Since you're not from around here, and have not been above 6500ft before, I advise take the time to try to acclimatize, camp at the lunch counter, rest up, have a good look around, hydrate etc...

 

I found a dromedary came in real handy on this climb. There will be water running in July somewhere around the counter and it may be a bit of a walk to it. Filtering the water right out of that container saved fuel and time. I was with a pretty big group that time which goes against my grain somewhat but it was an ok trip nonetheless...

 

If you're planning a solo trip the dromedary might still come in handy. All the references in your post were singular...

 

Good luck, it's a big mountain.

 

d

[Water]

1) I take my corolla to the TH, even when there are still patches of snow, so don't worry about that, but know it is a muddy/dirt road

 

2) Going to summit from LC early-around sunrise or earlier often the snowpack is hard and some traction devices (microspikes to crampons) would be wanted. If you wake up at sunrise and get going a bit later, often I've not needed any traction device.

 

3) If you summit around sunrise, often the glissade is too firm so you either wait, walk down, or go too fast/rip your pants up/etc. Normally it is windy at pikers peak and 'waiting' for an hour+ for it to soften never appeals so..

 

ive camped and done it in a day plenty. if you got the time and weather camping is an absolute blast. If you are trying to see as much as you can in the NW, going for it in a day will give you more time to see some other sight.

 

just food for thought. My preference is to do it in a day, start a little bit before sunrise, gets me to the main rise right as it is softening and puts me back ready for the glissade when it is in wonderful shape (soft, deeply carved). Your penalty for later is more time under sun (protect yourself, hydrate well) and descending in glob snow..slow. but not as horrid as ascending in that type of snow.

[milzey344]

Thank you! This is very useful!

 

Edited April 20, 2012 by milzey344

[jon]

Reaching the trailhead is easier in a high-clearance vehicle. You don't need a 4x4 to get there, but the road is beat up.

 

This was over 10 years ago but someone in my group put a hole in their oilpan and we had to drive around town trying to find a welder. So don't take the road lightly.

[ElectricEric]

Fun side note if you dont mind the weight bring a kite to the summit. Always fun.

[rob]

Oh, and that smell on the summit is not farts, but if there are other people up there it's fun to blame them anyway

[DPS]

The road beat up my high clearance truck enough that the fuel pump went out in Hood River. The mechanic surmised the dust and jostling clogged the filter and caused the pump the burn out. Fortunately we made it out ot I-85. Getting stuck way back in there would have been a major hassle.

Edited April 21, 2012 by DPS

[milzey344]

I truly appreciate the advice and the humor. I don't have a lot of experience. I went to a few climbing schools but it just taught me that I don't know anything.

[ScaredSilly]

I am going to disagree with those saying do it in a single push. For two reasons, one it does not sound like the OP has spent any time at altitude so he really does not know how his body will react. Second the OP is making their first trip out to the hill - take a vacation and enjoy yourself. BS with others at lunch counter and enjoy the views. Years ago when we came down the route we got to watch the ole Hag to the south belch a nice plume of gas and see her heart of stone glowing.

 

As for difficulty ... the SE Spur is a mule trail. Most others have covered it

[DPS]

I agree with ScaredSilly. Camping out is one of the more enjoyable aspects of climbing. Do it right and it only adds 10 lbs of gear to your kit, much of which can be shared with a partner.

[Buckaroo]

I would take crampons and an axe regardless of if you need them or not.

[DPS]

I would take crampons and an axe regardless of if you need them or not.

 

+1

 

Ice axe and crampons are not necessary,

 

I'd classify that as a big maybe.

 

[Fromage]

Ice axe and crampons are not necessary,

 

I'd classify that as a big maybe.

 

Let me provide a little more context. When I climbed Adams in July I took crampons and an ice axe. They stayed on/in my pack the entire time. My partner also used neither, instead summiting in running shoes. Seven of my friends who have also climbed Adams reported no need for an ice axe. So from a sample size of 9 individuals on 4 separate trips, my experience is that these pieces of equipment are superfluous.

 

If you are concerned about not having them, then taking a Grivel Air Tech Racing axe and pair of aluminum crampons will only add a couple pounds to your pack, tops. That way, if/when you don't use them, it won't have been as much effort as if you had carried a Raven and steel crampons up there.

 

If I planned to climb Adams again in July I would leave axe and crampons behind. It's everyone's personal decision to carry whatever gear he or she feels is appropriate for a climb.

Edited April 22, 2012 by Fromage

[DPS]

Ice axe and crampons are not necessary,

 

I'd classify that as a big maybe.

 

Let me provide a little more context. When I climbed Adams in July I took crampons and an ice axe. They stayed on/in my pack the entire time. My partner also used neither, instead summiting in running shoes. Seven of my friends who have also climbed Adams reported no need for an ice axe. So from a sample size of 9 individuals on 4 separate trips, my experience is that these pieces of equipment are superfluous.

 

If you are concerned about not having them, then taking a Grivel Air Tech Racing axe and pair of aluminum crampons will only add a couple pounds to your pack, tops. That way, if/when you don't use them, it won't have been as much effort as if you had carried a Raven and steel crampons up there.

 

If I planned to climb Adams again in July I would leave axe and crampons behind. It's everyone's personal decision to carry whatever gear he or she feels is appropriate for a climb.

Agreed that a climber may or many not need them on any given trip, but better to have them and not need them then need them and not have them. My recommendation is the same as yours, a Grivel Air Tech Racing axe and aluminum crampons, total weight of 1 pound and 12 ounces, adds little weight to the pack but adds a huge amount of security. I'm a big proponent of the light is right thing, but I think it is important to err on the side of safety when dispensing advice to climbers new to big PNW climbs.

Edited April 22, 2012 by DPS

[ScaredSilly]

Fromage, many of us on this board could climb/hike Adams without crampons or an ice axe. After all the south side is a mule trail. But we all have years if not decades of experience on the snowy hills. But that is us and not the OP. As DPS said having them can add a huge amount of security as well as make the ascent much easier. This statement is spot on:

 

I think it is important to err on the side of safety when dispensing advice to climbers new to big PNW climbs.

 

 

Now we can contrast the above to the thread on Rainier and whether to take a stove on summit day. All pretty much agreed a stove would be unnecessary if an adequate amount of water was taken. The more interesting part was the recommended amount of water.

 

FWIW - years ago I went to slide show that a guy did on his trip to Aconcagua the funniest damn part was his summit day as decided he did not need to take crampons or a ice axe just ski poles. Well just before the Cantaleta he ran in to a patch of snow that he could not cross safety so he had to abandon his ascent. He eventually summit a few days later after going back down and getting his crampons.