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wayne

[TR] Smithereens 4 classics - 3/9/2012

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Trip: Smithereens 4 classics -

 

Date: 3/9/2012

 

Trip Report:

So nice to return to my homeland to catch a wed-sat window of 70 degree temps, ahhh. Nobody was there mid-week so my stories of prana-top heaven to my 1st visit partner, didnt hold true, The raving about the routes did however, as we bagged 20+ pitches with 4 multi-pitch classics bagged. Warming up on Zebra Zion? Maybe in mid season, that 1st lead is a grind! We did enjoy Sky Ridge, Wherever I Roam/Unforgiven, and rounded it out with Monkey Face. After a great ice season, I am stoked to bring on the rock! More on blog of course.

 

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Nice! Lucky you got wed-sat, the weather on saturday alone was worth a trip! Love that last shot...

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i wanna climb shiprock too, ole'boy, and surely (yes, i'm calling you surely) a man of your pedigree has to be interested :)

 

the cow dog is classic silly smiff - a sport alpinesque experience! easy, for sure, but great setting and a fine topout puffdown platform :rawk:

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Cowdog is a fun one for sure. Interesting that it was FA'ed as a free solo and bolted on lead; 2009 if I'm not mistake-- Pretty cool that something that fun was only recently found (published, I guess). Be sure to walk off past Easy's to Misery Ridge as the rap is a load of shit as I've gathered from watching folks try it. More Kevin than Sandy is well worth sending on you way up the gully too.

 

As for Shipwreck, I'd be down to pull some choss with you too there white boy.

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Cowdog is a fun one for sure. Interesting that it was FA'ed as a free solo and bolted on lead; 2009 if I'm not mistake-- Pretty cool that something that fun was only recently found (published, I guess). Be sure to walk off past Easy's to Misery Ridge as the rap is a load of shit as I've gathered from watching folks try it. More Kevin than Sandy is well worth sending on you way up the gully too.

 

As for Shipwreck, I'd be down to pull some choss with you too there white boy.

nice, soon enough, eh? gotta get bob out to smiff sometime in the middle of april? he can take pictures of the shiprock ascent as he won't want to be anywhere near it :)

 

as for getting off the cowdog, i did indeed suffer a clusterfuck the first time i did it when the last of the 2 raps got stuck b/c of terrain drag - however, it is pretty straitforward to scramble off after doing hte first, clean rap though - either claw your way through the back of the tight cave or do an easy, highball traverse on its outside, scree surf down the gully (not a great idea if there's a bunch of people assembled at the base), then do 2 bits of 4th class downclimbing (the last bit is the hardest, but not very exposed)

 

walking off misery ridge, than having to walk back up to the base, is the worst option of the bunch :noway:

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walking off misery ridge, than then having to walk back up to the base, is the worst option of the bunch :noway:

 

Bring you're shit up with you silly. Sport rax be light eh.

 

 

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walking off misery ridge, than then having to walk back up to the base, is the worst option of the bunch :noway:

 

Bring you're shit up with you silly. Sport rax be light eh.

 

think'n'iz'hard :crosseye:

 

good idea - could carry over to the pioneer route on the monkey and do 2 funtacular big features in a single day w/ just a light sport rack!

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Nice TR Wayne :tup: :tup:

 

Nice to finally see a little less Hood(unless its a REAL Elliott Headwall TR)and more other stuff!!!!

 

 

Cowdog is a fun one for sure. Interesting that it was FA'ed as a free solo and bolted on lead; 2009 if I'm not mistake-- Pretty cool that something that fun was only recently found (published, I guess). Be sure to walk off past Easy's to Misery Ridge as the rap is a load of shit as I've gathered from watching folks try it. More Kevin than Sandy is well worth sending on you way up the gully too.

 

As for Shipwreck, I'd be down to pull some choss with you too there white boy.

 

If you weirdos do try and get killed by Shiprock, please try and do it in the middle of the week in the off season. When we did it mid week in February a few years ago we knocked a bunch of shit onto the trail off the second pitch, with just the rope movement, so essentially it was unavoidable and totally random. The second pitch kinda snakes along the ridge and anything you knock off to climbers left will go right to the trail. Either way its kinda fun, but probably one of the more serious/dangerous things I've done. At least you can expect a bomber rap anchor on the summit, unless its been chewed through then you might want an extra 50m rope just for the rap anchor :crazy:

 

 

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Ivan, I want to climb Shiprock.... :rocken:

a fine warmup for st peters (the dome that is, i doubt the pearly gates are in my future if the Shaved Men are correct :) )

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Ivan, I want to climb Shiprock.... :rocken:

a fine warmup for st peters (the dome that is, i doubt the pearly gates are in my future if the Shaved Men are correct :) )

 

:brew: It will be sweet. I'll bring the lawn chair.

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Ivan, I want to climb Shiprock.... :rocken:

a fine warmup for st peters (the dome that is, i doubt the pearly gates are in my future if the Shaved Men are correct :) )

 

hehe or the other way around, in my limited experience Shiprock is looser than the Dome. And there is actually fixed gear and bolts on the Dome... I don't even think you could aid on the Shiprock? I know the rock is super hard, but just insanely fractured, my friend tried to drill a bolt near the base a while ago (why I don't know) and it just destroyed the bit!

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Cowdog is a fun one for sure. Interesting that it was FA'ed as a free solo and bolted on lead; 2009 if I'm not mistake-- Pretty cool that something that fun was only recently found (published, I guess). Be sure to walk off past Easy's to Misery Ridge as the rap is a load of shit as I've gathered from watching folks try it. More Kevin than Sandy is well worth sending on you way up the gully too.

 

As for Shipwreck, I'd be down to pull some choss with you too there white boy.

 

Time to Shower p1 (.8) was what I was thinking, not More Kevin than Sandy (.11a); MKTS is a great climb at that grade though as it has cleaned up nicely from repeated ascents.

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