sobo Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I second the recommendation for the Petzl - have had no difficulties with the end cap two seasons now. and on mixed terrain, works great as a nut-tool - try that with a coat-hanger... I AM VINDICATED!!!1 Thanks, Haireball, ya ol' codger! Oh, and V-threadin' Quote
sdizzle25 Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I do use the bd v thread machine. i would never buy it retail but scored it on ebay for 6 bucks with shipping. It works for getting your line through the ice fine, has that serrated edge for when you are tired of your partners shit and makes geometrically perfect v threads in 3 sizes. what more could you want? Quote
G-spotter Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I used to have one of those GP abalakov hookers but once the cap loosens up it destroyed everything soft in my pack (like spare gloves and puffy) Using a Candela now and works just fine IMHO. I like that it is solid enough you can pound out recalcitrant cores from inside screws when the blow/tap/lighter tricks don't work. Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 I do use the bd v thread machine. what more could you want? Less bulky and lighter! Man, I might as well rack one extra screw in place of this rig. But, at $6 its a good deal! Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 I am demoralized with the candella, Dru. When I was pulling an 8 mm rope, it flexed much worse than the coat hangers and took freaking forever. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 Talk gently to it. Give it another try. Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 No, Pat. JF took it off my hands. I am however making a stock from the coat hangers! Quote
G-spotter Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I am demoralized with the candella, Dru. When I was pulling an 8 mm rope, it flexed much worse than the coat hangers and took freaking forever. Flexed? Maybe you need to sharpen the tip. The stock tip is kinda dull. Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 Yeah, it felt dull for a brand new one. Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 25, 2012 Author Posted January 25, 2012 Today - when I got sick and tired of the work related stuff. Jon was very understanding! And now, I've got such a change pleasing to the eye and soul, - in the upper right corner of the screen: "Welcome YocumRidge"! Quote
sobo Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 And I would suppose the new name also lends itself to something to which you can aspire... So, you a cellular biologist or sump'n? Creatin' new genes so we can all be smarter? Or at the very least, not be so stupid? From what I've seen lately, it's a job that would certainly appear to be in a growth phase... Quote
YocumRidge Posted January 25, 2012 Author Posted January 25, 2012 In a growth phase? Ha! Not so much. I define it as apoptotic! :: Quote
montypiton Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 apoptotic!?!? somebody help out the old fart, here -- reminds me of why I don't believe in Santa Claus: forty - odd years I bin askin' for a "clue" for Christmas, and I ain't never got one Quote
Buckaroo Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Coat hanger is the best. To keep it from breaking at the bend, bend it in a large diameter, like 1.5 inches. They last about 2 seasons when you do them that way. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Two cents: after doing numerous (30? I lost count after 20 something) v threads in sub zero temps coming off Huntington last winter I just cant imagine taking a v threader that I knew would break at some point. In fact if my v threader had broken we didn't have enough rack to leave to get down. I did 17 v threads bailing off of GCC on Kitchner a few years ago. Same story there: if my v threader had broken coming off of GCC I would have been in a world of hurt. Personally I like the Candela for a number of reasons but can understand if others don't. I would say whatever v threader you decide on I would recommend you are highly confident that it will not break on you especially if you have your eye on longer routes. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 I'm with you. When do you replace a coat hanger? With 9 raps left? Use a nice stainless wired tool that won't fuck you at the worst moment. And, for fucks sake, leave V thread cord big enough so that others can (and they will) use it without dying. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 And, for fucks sake, leave V thread cord big enough so that others can (and they will) use it without dying. Sure maybe when you crag but it the alpine no way. 1/2 inch tubular webbing weighs less, takes up less space in my pack, and is just strong enough for one time use. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) 1/2 inch tubular has a rating of about 4.4 kN. This is roughly the same as a 5 mm nylon cord (6 kN...knot factor bringing that down to 4-5 or so). When you add knot factors, that drops to about 3 kN...or just under 800 lbs. Sounds like a lot but any could half that. Body weight only ratings and 'good to rap on' are two different things in my book, but hey, it's your ass. I wouldn't think a stud like you John would have any trouble carrying the massive extra weight of 5.5 mm dyneema (3x rating of 1/2") or even 6mm cord (+25% rating). Maybe you're just a cheap skate in all the wrong places. The problem is that when you pull the rope, you can melt and destroy the strength of a too skinny v thread. Multiple parties climb even remote alpine routes during those narrow windows of good conditions. Sure, every party needs to be self sufficient, but still...you sure no one else is gonna rap of your tat? Personally, I'd care about something like that. Edited January 26, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
pcg Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Why use a cord or sling? Why not just thread the rope and leave no trace? I'm questioning from very little experience. My 8mm rope threads easily. Haven't tried my new 8.9 yet. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 That method reportedly works fine. The issue is this: you need an anchor at the rap station anyway, so you'd need to take the extra time to make another v thread or place a couple of screws, or figure out a way to pull the tat with a weight rap line on top of it. Never tried that. Worth an experiment. Your pack's gettin' lighter already, John! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Why use a cord or sling? Why not just thread the rope and leave no trace? I'm questioning from very little experience. My 8mm rope threads easily. Haven't tried my new 8.9 yet. Sure if you are 100% confident your ropes wont freeze. Spend a couple seasons ice climbing and I suspect you'll find that situations where you can use a no trace v thread are few and far between... my experience has been most water ice routes grow in size in the evening and at night when the temps drop back below zero... usually the same time I am rapping the route. I can think of a few v threads I have set that I watched freeze in place before the second was ready to rap down to the next station... Now imagine if that was your rope. I love how Pat drops knowledge all over this thread like he actually ice climbs more than 5 days a year. Bail off something besides ham and eggs and I might start listening dude. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) Yeah, puff it up, John, you're good for that, but there's not a lot of actual response to the points I made. Somebody raps off your shoestring and dies and you're all good with it? Everything we do has consequences. There are no reported problems with ropes freezing in v threads that I could find. The larger rope seems to make all the difference. Not recommending it either way, but it seems worth a bit of trying out. Even a 5 time a year ice climber knows that actual experience with a technique usually trumps a chest beat without same. Edited January 26, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) BTW, a far more talented pair of climbers than you, John, also bailed off Ham and Eggs that very same day due to, oh, I don't know, 50 mph winds or something, but that's neither here nor there. The bottom line is that its a true douche maneuver to shit on another's TR here, or on any other climbing site. Argue the merits, if you're able, and save the resume for the interview. Edited January 26, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
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